DIY Stove gasket replacement

[wildbill7145]

So, the other day I'm standing about 10' away from our woodstove looking at it from the side... and I can see light from the flames in between the door and the stove itself. Took a closer look and there's a roughly 1/16" to 1/8" gap in what appears to be only the upper left corner of the door. Opened the door up and it looks like the gasket is kind of worn out, or dried out or whatever. Probably needs replacing.

I looked around on here, youtube, etc. and I'm finding various different methods of replacing it using the heat resistant cement. Some said, scrape, clean the channel and apply the glue in there then set the gasket. Others said dry fit the gasket and apply the cement around the outer edge on the outside. (That one just doesn't sound right to me.)

Any links, recommendations to the actual proper way to do this? I would think using a 1/4" chisel to clean the gunk out the channel after removing the old gasket, maybe some 60 grit sandpaper to get any finer gunk. Dust well. Apply new cement inside the channel (not too thick), then place the new gasket? That's just me using my transferrable skills from being a house painter, so I'm not sure if that's the right way.

Stove is an "Enerzone 1.8 Solution". I think that means it has a 1.8" firebox. I also noticed that the fire can turn into a bit of an inferno this year as opposed to other years unless you keep the air adjuster cranked right down. Had this thing installed in fall of '09, gasket's never been changed since. Don't know what size I'm supposed to use.

You'll have to forgive me if my terminology is completely wrong. Since joining this forum earlier this week I've already learned the correct words to describe all sorts of facets of burning firewood.

Anyhoo, any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: Just found the manual online. It says to change this gasket annually? I talked to a guy last night about this and he said he's changed his twice in twenty years! Manual also says I can only use genuine Enerzone gaskets and can't burn for 24hrs after reinstalling. Lol. Not gonna happen here in Canada in December.

 

[KimiBwoah]

I did exactly as you by cleaning out the old gunk with a 1/4" chisel. Then I put a nice bead of cement (cold stove), smoothed it about like caulking into the groove, then rope. Closed the door for a few minutes to make sure the gasket was seated well and then opened it back up and let it dry for 1.5 hours before refiring and burning a moderate fire for another hour to cure before stoking it up. Check the directions on your gasket cement for cure time.

 

[Blazing]

I sure would like to know which works better cement or silicone myself. I've seen both used but I want to use whatever cleans up easier the next time.

 

[begreen]

I use a couple flat blade screwdrivers, one small 3/16" blade and one 1/4" as scrapers. They're pretty effective. Then I wire brush out the channel. If you can remove the door so that it lays flat on a table or bench the job is much easier. The cement goes in the channel. You want enough in the channel to hold the gasket but not excessive. You don't want so much adhesive in the channel that it soaks into the gasket deeply and turns it into a rock once it hardens. Follow instructions and let it set up. Wipe up excess before the adhesive hardens.

I have used Meeco stove gasket cement but it was quite loose. Rutland is better. It sets up faster and creates a strong bond when properly applies. Be sure to squeeze the tube to mix the ingredients well before opening. They separate when the tube sits on the shelf for a while. Some folks use red rtv silicone with success. I tried blue permatex rtv and it was a disaster. The stuff set up to rock like hardness that was exceptionally hard to remove when the next gasket replacement came around. Folks that have used the red rtv say this has not happened for them. Your choice. Gaskets come with different qualities. If possible use OEM gasket for replacement. If not, try to match the OEM specs for size, density, etc.

Here's a video tutorial

 

[tickbitty]

So, a couple years ago I bought some gasket and cement but I never actually did this and now it's really necessary!
The video begreen posted confuses me a little as I think the OP was similarly confused. THe guy says to dry fit the gasket but he doesn't say to take it back out to put in the bead of cement. Shouldn't you take it back out for that step? And I thought it should be flat with door off but it looks like most everyone just does it on the door? I have a Lopi republic 1750i. Should leave the gasket pretty "fluffy," is that right? The original stuff in there still looks pretty good, especially on the top, but I definitely can see the fire through the crack. Could the door be warped or something?

 

[Hogwildz]

IMO, after replacing many gaskets a few years back, silicone both holds better, and cleans easier when the time comes.

 

[Highbeam]

So, a couple years ago I bought some gasket and cement but I never actually did this and now it's really necessary!
The video begreen posted confuses me a little as I think the OP was similarly confused. THe guy says to dry fit the gasket but he doesn't say to take it back out to put in the bead of cement. Shouldn't you take it back out for that step? And I thought it should be flat with door off but it looks like most everyone just does it on the door? I have a Lopi republic 1750i. Should leave the gasket pretty "fluffy," is that right? The original stuff in there still looks pretty good, especially on the top, but I definitely can see the fire through the crack. Could the door be warped or something?

I remove the door for sure. You don't want the gasket falling off on you while the RTV is wet.

 

[Mark N MO]

I like the red RTV both for clean-up and ease of application. Also second the notion to take it off to install the new gasket. It'll stay in position better, and it makes it easy to not stretch out the braid of the rope seal.

 

[Highbeam]

I remove the door for sure. You don't want the gasket falling off on you while the RTV is wet.

Of course, after the gasket is placed I believe it is wise to resinstall the door and close it to bed the gasket evenly into the RTV. Then you can remove the door and let it dry or some folks leave it on the hinges but open. Just don't glue your door shut!

 

[DuaeGuttae]

So, a couple years ago I bought some gasket and cement but I never actually did this and now it's really necessary!
The video begreen posted confuses me a little as I think the OP was similarly confused. THe guy says to dry fit the gasket but he doesn't say to take it back out to put in the bead of cement. Shouldn't you take it back out for that step? And I thought it should be flat with door off but it looks like most everyone just does it on the door? I have a Lopi republic 1750i. Should leave the gasket pretty "fluffy," is that right? The original stuff in there still looks pretty good, especially on the top, but I definitely can see the fire through the crack. Could the door be warped or something?

I haven't watched that video, but yes, after you dry fit the gasket, you take it back out to apply the cement. We have a very similar stove, and it was very easy to take the door off and place it on a big piece of cardboard as a work surface. We scraped out old cement with a flat screwdriver. It's important not to stretch the gasket, so yes, it should be "fluffy" as you say. I would definitely put the door back to let it cure. I think we may have left it closed on some thin tissue paper while it cured initially.

Which crack are you seeing fire through? Our gasket had hardened or compressed at the bottom and we could see orange there. Replacing the gasket was easy and took care of the problem. If you do the dollar bill test, it should be quite snug, but it will be easier to pull out at the bottom as opposed to the sides or top because of the way the interior metal is shaped.

It was such a beautiful warm day here in Virginia that you may have already done this, but I thought I'd offer my two cents in case it helps.