Do any new stoves come without rear heat shield?

[Jonathan40]

I am looking to upgrade from my Englander 12-FP, and am wondering if any new EPA-rated wood stoves come without the rear heat shield. I'm budgeted in the $800 to $1200 range, and can really do without the noise of a standard blower fan (I prefer a pair of quiet box fans).

 

[fox9988]

Lots have no shield or optional shield.

 

[Jonathan40]

Ah OK, I guess it must be a Lowe's/Home Depot thing, then.

 

[fossil]

What does the rear heat shield have to do with a blower? Lots of stoves are available with a rear heat shield (which reduces required clearance to combustibles behind the stove) without a "standard equipment" blower attached.

 

[lopiliberty]

Just because it has a heat shield doesn't mean you have to use a blower. It will also provide somewhat of a convection chamber for heating the air. Not to mention reducing the clearance's for the stove

 

[lopiliberty]

What does the rear heat shield have to do with a blower? Lots of stoves are available with a rear heat shield (which reduces required clearance to combustibles behind the stove) without a "standard equipment" blower attached.

I was too slow My life story

 

[pen]

When I took my old stove out, and brought the englander 30 home, I looked at that rear heat shield and considered removing it before I put it into place. It took me about 2 hours into operation to realize how much that shield saves me, even w/out a blower, as with my basement install, all the heat that now convects out of there, used to radiate straight into the concrete wall and then dissipate to the outdoors/dirt.

Unless the stove was literally in the middle of a room, with nothing at all around it, I see absolutely no harm in the rear shield.

pen

 

[Jonathan40]

To my mind, it seems using a heat shield w/out a blower would leave the heat partially trapped and obstruct it from radiating from the rear of the stove.

 

[Jonathan40]

When I took my old stove out, and brought the englander 30 home, I looked at that rear heat shield and considered removing it before I put it into place. It took me about 2 hours into operation to realize how much that shield saves me, even w/out a blower, as with my basement install, all the heat that now convects out of there, used to radiate straight into the concrete wall and then dissipate to the outdoors/dirt.

Unless the stove was literally in the middle of a room, with nothing at all around it, I see absolutely no harm in the rear shield.

pen

I see the logic of heat radiating into the wall behind it, but figure box fans pushing the heat into the opposite direction would remedy that. May I ask, is the Englander 30's heat shield removable or is it welded to the stove?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

The shield is open on top and on the bottom. The warm air lifts out the top and pulls cooler air in the bottom... to be warmed, so it will flow out the top and pull cool air in the bottom...

 

[pen]

I see the logic of heat radiating into the wall behind it, but figure box fans pushing the heat into the opposite direction would remedy that. May I ask, is the Englander 30's heat shield removable or is it welded to the stove?

The rear shield is welded.

 

[pen]

The shield is open on top and on the bottom. The warm air lifts out the top and pulls cooler air in the bottom... to be warmed, so it will flow out the top and pull cool air in the bottom...

And to an impressive degree! Just fire off a lighter and set it near that opening even w/out a blower,,,, it takes a damn strong one to stay lit so much air moves though while the stove is cranking.

 

[fossil]

Jonathan40...what is it exactly that you'd like to know? Do you have a wood stove? Are thinking about getting/installing a wood stove? What? How can we help you?

 

[Jonathan40]

Jonathan40...what is it exactly that you'd like to know? Do you have a wood stove? Are thinking about getting/installing a wood stove? What? How can we help you?

I'd like to either modify my Englander 12-FP or upgrade to an EPA stove. I'd like to find one without a rear heat shield for under $1200. I feel most of the heat in my 12-FP is going out the chimney. If I keep it, I am considering adding cooling fins to the stove and pipe, and investing in a heat reclaimer, for starters.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Home Depot has the 30 for $899. The 13 is 649.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

TSC has the Vogelzang Defender (EPA) for $494 and the Ponderosa is 989. They sell the US stove medium (2000) for 849 and their large (2500) is on sale right now for 809.

 

[Jonathan40]

I've had my eye on the 30 for a while now. The 13 looks exactly like my 12-FP, so I'm guessing they just added a baffle and air tubes to it. Any comparison between the 30 and US Stove 2500?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I've never seen the 2500. It is advertized with a 2.5 cu ft firebox whereas the 30 is 3.5. The weight of the 2500 is 325 whereas the 30 is 423.

 

[fossil]

To my mind, it seems using a heat shield w/out a blower would leave the heat partially trapped and obstruct it from radiating from the rear of the stove.

You're wrong.

Also, adding some sort of fins to the stove pipe and installing a heat reclaimer are both really bad ideas.

 

[mellow]

Fins and a magic heat are OK on old non-epa stoves that belch alot of heat up the chimney, the newer baffled secondary burning stoves keep the chimney cooler and need every bit of that heat to keep the draft going, if you go sucking off that heat creosote will form and your draft will suffer.

If you are happy with that 12 I wouldn't hesitate to upgrade to the 13, just prepare yourself and your wood beforehand or you will not like the switch.

 

[Jonathan40]

If I decide to go that route, I'll probably get the 30, as the firebox has almost double the cubic feet as the 13. I still haven't ruled out the magic heat, especially if I just decide to just use the 12 for this winter. The stove is in a 1-story building with a straight chimney with not much linear feet - cleaning the creosote is a 5-minute task, so I'm at liberty to experiment. Thanks for all the info.