Do I need this thermostat?

[Flame On]

I originally posted this in the VC thread:
I bought a new refractory box for my VC Winterwarm Small. When I removed the old box I saw that there is a secondary air probe (thermostat) sticking into the stove from the back. In order to get my new box in I would have to pierce a hole in it. I am reluctant to do that, as I don't even know if the thermostat still works. So, a few questions...
1.) Is there any way to test the thermostat to see if it still works? I can see the small 'door' that the thermostat would close if it was working.
2.) If I cut this thing off, does it even matter?
3.) If I were to cut it off, should I close off the small door and just adjust the air on my own with the main air control?
Before you suggest pulling the unit and replacing the thermostat from the back, I'm reluctant to disconnect the chimney to pull the unit out. I've looked into getting a tech over here to do that and it gets into costing more than this thing is worth...
Thanks for any help you guys can offer.

 

[webby3650]

To do it correctly, I agree it will cost more than the thing is worth. It has to be pulled... or just drill the hole and leave the probe in operation.

 

[webby3650]

Have you already removed the bypass damper assembly? Most often, these stoves need other parts replaced if the box is bad.

 

[Flame On]

Thanks for the reply Webby. If there is no way to test the secondary air probe, I think I'm going to just clip it off so I don't have to drill a hole in the refractory box. The secondary air 'door' I'll just leave alone. I know i can control the air pretty well with the primary control.
As to your question about the other parts... I'm pretty sure the secondary probe is mostly burned away. I did need to replace the throat hood and fireback, but they were surprisingly cheap (48 bucks for both). I have the damper assembly out to clean and re-gasket and it looks pretty straight, no warping. I'm also replacing the cat for the first time. So far I'm in for around $400. If that gets me another 4 or 5 years, I'm OK with that.

 

[begreen]

Drilling a hole in the refractory shouldn't be a big deal.

 

[Flame On]

Thanks begreen, I know it won't be tough to do. The two VC owning friends I have call it the eggshell crate. I'm just convinced that thermostat doesn't work and I'd be drilling a hole for nothing. Ideally, if I have a good season, I'll pull the whole thing in the spring and install a new probe.
My new Condar steelcat will be here tomorrow. I've got some well seasoned hickory, ash and maple so things ain't all bad...

 

[webby3650]

Thanks begreen, I know it won't be tough to do. The two VC owning friends I have call it the eggshell crate. I'm just convinced that thermostat doesn't work and I'd be drilling a hole for nothing. Ideally, if I have a good season, I'll pull the whole thing in the spring and install a new probe.
My new Condar steelcat will be here tomorrow. I've got some well seasoned hickory, ash and maple so things ain't all bad...

A hole gets drilled in the box regardless if you do it now or with a new probe in the spring. If you do it now it will need to be a slightly elongated hole to get the box to sit down. No biggie though. On the back of the unit there’s a bi-metallic coil that opens and closes a secondary air shutter. There’s supposed to be an access panel in the sheet metal on the back of the insert. I’ve seen 1 that didn’t have an access panel, we had to remove the entire sheet metal jacket.

 

[Woody Stover]

As a rule, I would want to get a stove running as it was designed to run but I'm not familiar with the stove, to be able to assess the pros and cons..