I've never gone wrong with Swedish "how-to" manuals and videos.
Seriously, they practically invented modern manual (and mechanized) logging techniques.
Seriously, they practically invented modern manual (and mechanized) logging techniques.
Very true. It all does take practice.Eric Johnson said:Really great video, Roos. Notice his use of wedges and his limbing technique. I was really impressed by the cant hook he made out of the strap and the sapling. I'm gonna have to try that! Looks like he was using a 346XP with the 13-inch bar. You can get away with that if you've got that kind of skill.
What he was doing with the tip was just a standard bore cut, Warren. You need to make sure your chain is sharp and your rakers are set at the correct depth if you want to try that. It's just a fancier way to get the same job done (as a straight notch-and-backcut), but it makes sense with the small bar. You can practice boring and see how you like it--just be aware that it's an opportunity for kickback.
Personally, I just do the std. felling approach with the notch and backcut.
This guy makes it look easy, which it certainly isn't.
Eric said:That is a great video. For someone who's still trying to learn all he can about how to use a chainsaw safely, its encouraging to see someone that experienced show how its done properly. I particiularly liked the diagram showing how to line up the direction of fall and the demonstration of his limbing technique.
In the second video when he's cutting the downed trees, there is a section where they show green arrows and red arrows. Can someone explain to me what the meaning of those arrows was. I often cut downed trees from a storm and any safety tips doing that would be greatly appreciated.
Eric
Eric Johnson said:The anticipated movement of the trunk (if any) is the overriding consideration, because you don't want it moving in your direction. Meanwhile, you need to plan for the unexpected, so you also need a good escape path if things don't work out.
With those two things taken care of, pay close attention to what happens as you begin to cut through the trunk. The cut should open up the way you expected, and you should be cutting in such a way that the saw won't bind when the trunk moves. If it does, then you know you miscalculated and you will have time to reassess the situation.
A good approach to severing a tree still attached to the rootball is to start cutting at the top of the tree, paying attention to what happens as you cut the upper limbs free. Be very careful here as well, because branches under tension can also be very dangerous and unpredictible, and cutting them loose can also cause the trunk to move around. If you can clear the trunk of branches, then the odds of it moving unexpectedly when you sever the root ball, decline.
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