EKO 40 Nozzle

[enfgriffins]

Hello,
I have an Orlan EKO 40 installed in 2008 needing a nozzle similar to the job jtwall posted. Thanks for all the great info from all. I decided to make my own nozzle and have spent some time building a nice wooden mold. I will post pics later. I bought the mortar and SST needles from New Horizons and am ready to mix. My questions are:
1. Should I use sand and gravel in the mix long with the needles?
2. If so, can I use regular concrete sand and pea gravel in this hot application?
3. Do I need to hot cure, or can I just let it dry a few days and install?
Thanks!
-Dan

 

[hobbyheater]

Hello,
I have an Orlan EKO 40 installed in 2008 needing a nozzle similar to the job jtwall posted. Thanks for all the great info from all. I decided to make my own nozzle and have spent some time building a nice wooden mold. I will post pics later. I bought the mortar and SST needles from New Horizons and am ready to mix. My questions are:
1. Should I use sand and gravel in the mix long with the needles?
2. If so, can I use regular concrete sand and pea gravel in this hot application?
3. Do I need to hot cure, or can I just let it dry a few days and install?
Thanks!
-Dan

Refractory Cement is the only thing that is going to work . Did you get refractory cement from New Horizons or just mortar ?

http://www.rona.ca/en/castable-refractory-cement-3-lb-p66895005 This is an example of what you need .

 

[warno]

If you use regular cement it will start popping and cracking, in a pretty violet manner, as soon as things heat up.

You need refractory like hobbyheater said. I bought mine from www.woodlanddirect.com

 

[enfgriffins]

If you use regular cement it will start popping and cracking, in a pretty violet manner, as soon as things heat up.

You need refractory like hobbyheater said. I bought mine from www.woodlanddirect.com

I got refractory cement fro New Horizons http://newhorizonstore.com/Products/130-refractory-cement-high-temperature.aspx However, I think it's just mortar as it does not appear to have any sand in it. My questions were not so much about the mortar/cement but about the aggregate. Don't I need to add an aggregate. Cement by itself, refractory or otherwise, is not very strong without an aggregate. Like I mentioned, I got the stainless needles but it seems I should be adding some gravel as well. If you look closely at the nozzle jtwall trimmed by grinding, it appears to have a lot of aggregate (gravel plus needles) in it.

 

[maple1]

No mixing directions with it?

I don't think you add anything to it, except for water & the needles - but have never used it. Others will chime in, I'm sure.

 

[warno]

The only aggregate you need to add is the needles. If you use sand it will change the material make up and possibly make it "no good" for heat use.

My first time using refractory I crushed up about 5-6 fire brick to mix in with my 100 pounds of cement. What a pain in the a$$ that was. This time around I just added water. Mix it to the proper consistency that you want, heavier for horizontal and vertical application and more wet for pouring into forms then agitate to get air bubbles out. I wouldn't recommend adding anything other then needles. I know the stuff is expensive and doesn't go very far, but if done right it holds up very well.

 

[Fred61]

The refractory cement you purchased is called fire clay. It's mostly alumina and silica with a few other minerals in it depending on where it was mined. I believe the ratio of alumina to silica determines the heat characteristics of the finished brick but I'm not sure. It's clay that has been dried and bagged
.
For this application you shouldn't add aggregate or it will blow itself apart with tiny little explosions as the stone or sand heats up.

In my younger years I worked for an old German mason and he always added fire clay to his mortar mix for the fire boxes in fireplaces but that was a lower temperature application.

Don't forget to precisely line up your secondary air ports.

 

[enfgriffins]

The refractory cement you purchased is called fire clay. It's mostly alumina and silica with a few other minerals in it depending on where it was mined. I believe the ratio of alumina to silica determines the heat characteristics of the finished brick but I'm not sure. It's clay that has been dried and bagged
.
For this application you shouldn't add aggregate or it will blow itself apart with tiny little explosions as the stone or sand heats up.

In my younger years I worked for an old German mason and he always added fire clay to his mortar mix for the fire boxes in fireplaces but that was a lower temperature application.

Don't forget to precisely line up your secondary air ports.

Thanks Fred,
I did some clay impressions and measurements of the hole positions but it's difficult to be accurate. We will see how they line up after install.
Would you know how many scoops of stainless needles I should use per scoop of cement?
-Dan

 

[hobbyheater]

.
Would you know how many scoops of stainless needles I should use per scoop of cement?
-Dan

1.5 to 3 % of the volume of the mix .