Englander 30 install... Heat shield, Hearth and thimble questions

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nojo

New Member
Dec 22, 2009
224
Western/cent Mass
This was from another thread I decided to start another one on topic.

[quote author="BeGreen" date="1264473406"][quote author="nojo" date="1264472762"]

Thanks Green! I didnt see that in the manual. I was reading it quickly. I dint have a paper copy on the online one and must have scrolled through it too quick!

I guess that answers my question about the durok under the hearth. I wonder if one course is good enough?[/quote]

No, read above. We cross-posted.

The flue to ceiling clearance depends on the connector pipe. A minimum of 18" is required for single-wall, 6" for double-wall, but there's no harm in exceeding the requirement.

I've got plenty of space around the thimble. But what I meant is the sheetrock directly around the thimble.. does it need to be protected?

page 7 of the docs covers this. For a more detailed explanation this article is a must read:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/passing_a_chimney[/quote]


thanks begreen, most helpful! Does anyone have a link to a list of thermal R values on different materials? I could not find one on Granite anywhere, thanks for listing it Begreen.

I checked that article. It makes me want to rip my wall apart and look at the thimble... Not sure when the chimney was built or installed.

This is the current temp install of our trailblazer stove going on one month. The 30 should go in next week.

17980_1170646907179_1258180699_30428034_6354529_n.jpg


When examining the thimble I pushed some of the joint compound that was in the join back into the space between the wall to expose the side of the thimble.

Its a 2" thick tube surounded by a metal jacket that apears to be able 3/16ths of an inch thick.

110025172248-IMG_3439.JPG-Windows-Picture-and-Fax-Viewer.jpg


Should I check the rest of the wall around it? I mean like cut the drywall away and check everything...?
 
BeGreen said:
The granite will need some insulation between it and the wood framing. If cement board it will take about 3", depending on the thickness of the granite. Granite's R value is .083/inch. However, a sheet of 3/4" micore under the cement board will reduce this to one 1/2" sheet of cement board.

thanks begreen, most helpful! Does anyone have a link to a list of thermal R values on different materials? I could not find one on Granite anywhere, thanks for listing it. The granite is 1.25" thick.

Maybe I should put in an airspace under the hearth? Does anyone do this?

Or perhaps I could re-frame the hearth out of metal and cover it in granite? This option given my fabrication experience seems like a really good solution.

Those pre-made hearth plates you can buy are just concrete board screwed to plywood with tiles on top...? That doesnt seem like it would pass muster....


Also does anyone know on the 30, when they say 8" off the wall. Do they mean 8 inches from tha back of the firebox, or from that heat shield that's welded to the stove back?

The clearance specs also say 14" rear clearance with no shields, and 8" with rear & side shields.. this is confusing.. so does that mean I cant get the 8" unless I have BOTH side and Rear, instead of just the rear?
 
This wiki article should help:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Hearth_Design/

And Tom has a nice readable chart here:
http://chimneysweeponline.com/horvalue.htm

Several members have used an airspace to increase the R value. But it needs to be above the nearest combustible. Metal studs can accomplish this. If you use them, screw or pop rivet the entire assembly with stiffeners to make a rigid assembly. Then screw a cement board lid to create a solid box on which to place the granite top.
 
BeGreen said:
This wiki article should help:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Hearth_Design/

And Tom has a nice readable chart here:
http://chimneysweeponline.com/horvalue.htm

Several members have used an airspace to increase the R value. But it needs to be above the nearest combustible. Metal studs can accomplish this. If you use them, screw or pop rivet the entire assembly with stiffeners to make a rigid assembly. Then screw a cement board lid to create a solid box on which to place the granite top.

Sounds like a plan! I just might bust out the welder make it out of angle iron.
 
That would work, though metal studs are much easier to screw into for the durock lid.
 
2" light channel (1/8" with 1" leg) will allow 1.5" wood to slide in easily, if metal studs are the same dimension channel rails with a slide-in steel-stud-backed tiled sheet of Durock would look cool and be easy-out if you ever change design... Plus allow airspace in back.
 
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