F500 install question - leave oval plate unscrewed?

[CarbonNeutral]

In the install manual for my F500 (which is pretty useless as it doesn't cover half the stuff, and crosses over with the other manual), it says to unscrew the bolts holding the oval plate on at the top. This would mean that just the plate just floats, with only its weight closing the gasket. This seems a bit unintuitive. If there was just one, easy to read manual, I'd trust it, but...

Do other F500 users have this plate floating?

 

[summit]

leave it bolted on.

 

[Detector$]

The F600 manual suggests the same thing... I just don't think it's a good idea.

 

[webby3650]

I would like to know if anyone has done this? I don't know a good way to clean above the baffle on this stove, doing this would certainly help, if it is safe. Other than that I love it!

 

[semipro]

I just installed an Oslo but never noticed the instruction to leave that plate loose. I'll need to double-check that. It seems to make sense that you could leave it loose though. My F600 Firelight is a top-loader and only gravity seals the top door on it.

 

[semipro]

I would like to know if anyone has done this? I don't know a good way to clean above the baffle on this stove, doing this would certainly help, if it is safe. Other than that I love it!

I found on my F500 that you can access the front oval plate bolt from inside the front door. Once the front bolt is removed I think you might be able to lift the oval plate out by lifting the front and sliding it forward. It works on my stove anyway. II planned to access the bottom of the flue this way during cleaning.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

I would like to know if anyone has done this? I don't know a good way to clean above the baffle on this stove, doing this would certainly help, if it is safe. Other than that I love it!

I found on my F500 that you can access the front oval plate bolt from inside the front door. Once the front bolt is removed I think you might be able to lift the oval plate out by lifting the front and sliding it forward. It works on my stove anyway. II planned to access the bottom of the flue this way during cleaning.

Great info, thanks. With my setup, I have to sweep top down and then move the stove to access the debris and stove pipe, but I'm guessing that I won't have to move the stove with this plate removed - there will be a large enough space to snake the vacuum through, and give it a good brushing.

 

[semipro]

I would like to know if anyone has done this? I don't know a good way to clean above the baffle on this stove, doing this would certainly help, if it is safe. Other than that I love it!

I found on my F500 that you can access the front oval plate bolt from inside the front door. Once the front bolt is removed I think you might be able to lift the oval plate out by lifting the front and sliding it forward. It works on my stove anyway. II planned to access the bottom of the flue this way during cleaning.

Great info, thanks. With my setup, I have to sweep top down and then move the stove to access the debris and stove pipe, but I'm guessing that I won't have to move the stove with this plate removed - there will be a large enough space to snake the vacuum through, and give it a good brushing.

Actually I found that the whole top is easily removed once you remove the oval plate. There is one bolt in the back accessible through the oval opening and 2 up front accessible through the front door. Once removed the top comes off cleanly. It looks like this required for air tube replacement should it ever need it.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

How is the 'whole top' section sealed - furnace cement or just a gasket?

 

[semipro]

How is the 'whole top' section sealed - furnace cement or just a gasket?

Gasket only. I attached a few photos. One photo shows the casting flash I found that I thought Jotul would have taken care of. That flash sits squarely on the sealing surface for the gasket. The other photos show the stove with the top removed. In the one on the hearth, the top can be reinstalled without moving the stove.

 

[FWWARDEN]

I took the screws out like the manual says, makes cleanup a breeze after sweeping the chimney. There's no good reason to keep them in.

 

[CarbonNeutral]

Because it would seem like I can undo the front and slide the top plate out, I kind of figure that's the both of best worlds. Thanks for everyone's answers.

 

[semipro]

Because it would seem like I can undo the front and slide the top plate out, I kind of figure that's the both of best worlds. Thanks for everyone's answers.

Don't take my word that that will work on your stove as purchased. I recall installing a washer or two under the rear oval plate bolt to gain some clearance then removed some washers to get the fit just right. I'm not sure whether I ended up with the original total thickness of washers or not.

 

[polaris]

I removed the screws holding the top down on both the Castine and the Oslo as the manual suggests. It sure makes bottom up cleaning a breeze. The lid is heavy and the gasket is in a bit of a groove so accidental moving would be unlikely.
Joe

 

[firefighterjake]

I know the manual says to remove the bolts, but being the worrisome person that I am I left the bolts in and have had no issues after a year of burning. This Fall I easily removed the two bolts holding the top oval plate out for cleaning the baffle . . . and this is with my pudgy, clumsy fingers.

I just printed out this thread however since I learned two new things thanks to semipro . . . a) I never thought about only taking out the front bolt and sliding the plate out which would make removing the plate even easier since the more difficult bolt to remove was the rear bolt and b) it was even better to learn that the whole top can easily come off. Thanks for teaching me something new Semipro!

 

[CarbonNeutral]

I think I will leave mine on, but check first to see if I can remove the plate by just undoing the front bolt and sliding. Awesome thread, thanks all.

 

[semipro]

I know the manual says to remove the bolts, but being the worrisome person that I am I left the bolts in and have had no issues after a year of burning. This Fall I easily removed the two bolts holding the top oval plate out for cleaning the baffle . . . and this is with my pudgy, clumsy fingers.

I just printed out this thread however since I learned two new things thanks to semipro . . . a) I never thought about only taking out the front bolt and sliding the plate out which would make removing the plate even easier since the more difficult bolt to remove was the rear bolt and b) it was even better to learn that the whole top can easily come off. Thanks for teaching me something new Semipro!

You're welcome Jake. My local dealer must of thought I was a little obsessive the way I was looking that Oslo over in her warehouse. I had to make darn sure before I bought it that I could remove the top for flue cleaning otherwise I'd have had to pull the stove out everytime.

The more I think about it the more I think the bolts used to hold the top on are bascially there for transport. They're small bolts, couldn't hold much, the top is real heavy, and the stove's not under pressure anyway.

 

[SPED]

I know the manual says to remove the bolts, but being the worrisome person that I am I left the bolts in and have had no issues after a year of burning. This Fall I easily removed the two bolts holding the top oval plate out for cleaning the baffle . . . and this is with my pudgy, clumsy fingers.

This is exactly what I do on my Firelight 600(non cat) too. Not saying it needs to be done, but I was worried that if I got a back puff it might blow that top up. Like Jake said, after a year of burning my bolts came right out without a lot of effort. I cleaned out the top and then put the bolts back in.

 

[polaris]

I know the manual says to remove the bolts, but being the worrisome person that I am I left the bolts in and have had no issues after a year of burning. This Fall I easily removed the two bolts holding the top oval plate out for cleaning the baffle . . . and this is with my pudgy, clumsy fingers.

I just printed out this thread however since I learned two new things thanks to semipro . . . a) I never thought about only taking out the front bolt and sliding the plate out which would make removing the plate even easier since the more difficult bolt to remove was the rear bolt and b) it was even better to learn that the whole top can easily come off. Thanks for teaching me something new Semipro!

You're welcome Jake. My local dealer must of thought I was a little obsessive the way I was looking that Oslo over in her warehouse. I had to make darn sure before I bought it that I could remove the top for flue cleaning otherwise I'd have had to pull the stove out everytime.

The more I think about it the more I think the bolts used to hold the top on are bascially there for transport. They're small bolts, couldn't hold much, the top is real heavy, and the stove's not under pressure anyway.

That's what the dealer told me as well "remove the little bolts securing the top as they only serve to hold the top in place during transport and if you burn with them in for a long time they might be harder to remove"

 

[9050lx]

Thread revival: How important is the fiberglass mat laying over the baffle?I ripped mine a little on my Oslo when removing it to clean.

 

[cptoneleg]

Just twist little tabs to the side and tighten bolts back, it makes cleanup a breeze, that way you will know where the bolts are if you change your mind .

The weight will hold it down just fine, but its your choice.

 

[cptoneleg]

How is the 'whole top' section sealed - furnace cement or just a gasket?

Gasket only. I attached a few photos. One photo shows the casting flash I found that I thought Jotul would have taken care of. That flash sits squarely on the sealing surface for the gasket. The other photos show the stove with the top removed. In the one on the hearth, the top can be reinstalled without moving the stove.

At first I didn't recognize your stove as a F500 without doors looks naked, I sure thought the whole top was bolted on with 4 bolts one in each corner have never removed it but have felt around thought I felt them.

 

[cptoneleg]

Thread revival: How important is the fiberglass mat laying over the baffle?I ripped mine a little on my Oslo when removing it to clean.

I would get one, the dealer gave me a new one, when I discovered it wasn't there.

 

[mossycup]

I also read this in the directions and took them out.

Since we have the stove set up with a rear exit pipe into the T, I am glad that I took them out. Taking the oval plate off to inspect and brush the rear exit, horizontal pipe is effortless. I can also vacuum the area behind the baffle. JUST REMEMBER - the batt is pretty fragile, be careful if you noodle brush or vacuum so you dont pull at it.

 

[Green Energy]

I have gone back and forth on the issue of whether to keep the little bolts in for the oval top and the big top. I don't think it will hurt anything to take them out, and it allows easy access. But I don't need access except maybe once a year, so I have left them in. Don't want to forget where I put them.