RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
What’s stopping you from building a stove compliant hearth extension and still using the current fireplace opening to vent the stove?
fireplace deemed unsafe to use -options?
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RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
Yeah I understand that part but after the tear down can he just brace the floor with some extra framing, tile it to stove spec and still use existing chimney opening? Would this make more sense than taping into the chimney farther up the wall? I’m just trying to understand the masons suggestions to not do a freestander.
This was a guy from the fireplace store not the mason. He really didn't want to demo the hearth extension. Probably why he didn't want to run the stove pipe into the fireplace opening. I suggested tapping into the chimney further up because I knew the stoves I want have the pipe coming out the top.
I would love to ditch what I have now and have a setup like in the image attached. Maybe put some sort of stone on the wall behind the stove .
I would love to ditch what I have now and have a setup like in the image attached. Maybe put some sort of stone on the wall behind the stove .
If that is what you want do it. Remove it all and run a prefab chimney. Its not what i would do but nothing wrong with it.
What would you do and why not tap into the existing masonary chimney and add the stainless pipe?
New to this forum, but I wanted to share my sympathy with OP. I recently renovated my very old house and learned that my beloved fireplace was a fire hazard. After discussing options, builder recommended dropping a liner down the existing chimney, and installing an insert, which was going to be cheaper than totally rebuilding the fireplace. I was lucky the opening was large enough to take a sizeable insert. With the new insert and code changes over the years, this also necessitated rebuilding the hearth (to make it deeper) to meet current code. Fortunately the mantle was ok in my case. It sounds like your issues are different, but in the end, the fix did wind up being a costly prospect when factoring in the cost of the insert, installation, hearth rebuild, etc. I hope that you are able to find a workable solution and get back to burning soon.
Personally i would fix the fireplace. And do an insert. But i would be doing the work myself and it doesnt mean that is what you should do.
I wouldnt tap into the existing chimney. By the time you remove the face brick the firebox closed do a proper wall passthrough and liner i doubt it would be cheaper than complete removal and a prefab chimney straight up which will work better.
Mason came and he poked and prodded and pushed and looked. Then told me to fill cracks with high temp stuff and just watch it. He doesn't think there is any need for anything else at this point. Told me it is $175 for him to do it. He said there is no chance of it falling forward.
So now I am just waiting for fireplace store bid.
So now I am just waiting for fireplace store bid.
Yup and thanks for all your help! I still am going to price out the insert. I really want a more functional fireplace.
3M Fire Block Sealant FB. 136
What should I have used? This is rated at like 1400 degrees and said for use on fireplaces.
What should I have used? This is rated at like 1400 degrees and said for use on fireplaces.
Fb 136 is inly rated to 240 degrees not for this purpose at all.
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The tube says 1382 degrees and says for use on fireplaces . 90% of the reviews online are of people using it inside fireboxes with positive results . So guess we will see.
Sorry home depots site said 240 i checked other places confirm what you said my bad.
The container itself is saying 1382.
I didn't even see the site when I bought it. I was going off of what the package says. According to the package it should be fine. I was at Lowe's to get the moisture meter, for $22 I might ad and this was the only product I saw that would fit my needs . It is solid as a rock now. I am keeping an eye on the area anyway.
I didn't even see the site when I bought it. I was going off of what the package says. According to the package it should be fine. I was at Lowe's to get the moisture meter, for $22 I might ad and this was the only product I saw that would fit my needs . It is solid as a rock now. I am keeping an eye on the area anyway.
The msds sheet says non combustible you are fine with it. Just some crappy info on the web. Sorry again for the confusion. I had to check because most fireblock products are still flammable so it worried me.
Still waiting on the first bid for insert. Guess that guy doesn't need business. In the meantime I contacted another dealer and this is what I was told
Osburn 2400 insert $2599
Stove discount $259
Liner up to 25' $600
Install most jobs $650
Sub $3590
tax $228
Total $3818
This does not include extending the hearth more. At that price I hope it includes a surround but I'd have to confirm. Guy said the the 2400 sticks out 7". So do I need a 27" of non combustible material from fireplace face? Everything I read said you need 20" if the fireplace opening is greater than 6sq ft which mine is. Does this apply for an insert as well?
Osburn 2400 insert $2599
Stove discount $259
Liner up to 25' $600
Install most jobs $650
Sub $3590
tax $228
Total $3818
This does not include extending the hearth more. At that price I hope it includes a surround but I'd have to confirm. Guy said the the 2400 sticks out 7". So do I need a 27" of non combustible material from fireplace face? Everything I read said you need 20" if the fireplace opening is greater than 6sq ft which mine is. Does this apply for an insert as well?
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