I'm writing from Minnesota in regard to my new Woodstock Fireview. It's been a harsh winter, and I've been loving this stove... and I'd like to keep it running at it's best for years. My concern is overfiring. I'm burning seasoned oak and ash. I have 19' steel-lined, center-house chimney. When I first started burning this fall, I followed all Woodstock's instructions to a T. Using the supplied stovetop thermometer, I slowly cured the stove with initial moderate burns and then a couple hotter ones (around 500 on my stovetop). After a few days, I brought my stovetop to around 600, at which point the stove seem scary hot. It took about 40 minutes to reach this temp on a full load of wood with the damper at about 2. Afterwards I let the stove completely cool. On inspection of the firebox parts of the cast iron (mostly the iron directly above flame) had some reddish oxidation. this concerned me so I order one more stovetop thermo. the 2nd thermo seemed to read about 50 degrees hotter. so i ended up buying a Condar 8" probe thermo. if the stovetop thermos read 500, the probe will read 1500. even if the temp drops, the probe will stay 3x the stovetop. Woodstock claims the stovetop is half the combustor temp. this concerns me. being a novice, i don't know if I've damaged my stove. there is lite reddish oxidization on most of the castiron above the fire area, yet the combustor doesn't have surface cracks. should i be concerned? if i start keeping the temp on the probe down below 1400, will the oxidization keep spreading at this point?
Fireview overfire?
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Interesting, you have cast iron parts above the flame area in a new Fireview.
This thread talks about replacement stainless steel parts (Combustor Scoop) for the newer Fireviews;
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/65909/
I will be interested in other Fireview owner's responses. Mine does have the oxidized look to the Cast Iron parts but
nothing is warped. You should speak with Woodstock (I would ask for Ron) about the Condor probe temps being X3 higher
than stovetop. That just seems wrong.
This thread talks about replacement stainless steel parts (Combustor Scoop) for the newer Fireviews;
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/65909/
I will be interested in other Fireview owner's responses. Mine does have the oxidized look to the Cast Iron parts but
nothing is warped. You should speak with Woodstock (I would ask for Ron) about the Condor probe temps being X3 higher
than stovetop. That just seems wrong.
dylanwest - fireview folks will chime in soon. I've read many posts with folks getting the fireview to not only 600*, but to 700* with NO negative effect. That stovetop is temp is just fine. Explain where your probe is set. How far up is the probe? 1500* sounds pretty darn high - is this before you engage the cat? I'm pretty sure that probe temp should drop after the cat is engaged, but others will correct. I get high readings on my probe - sometimes to 1100*, but normal operating temp of 700-900* depending on load, etc. I'm really not sure what to make of these probe thermos - I've tested my stovetop mag thermo at the same spot (18" from the collar) and I get about 3X lower temps. The mag often will read just over 300* when the probe is at ~ 1000*. No idea why. Look forward to Dennis, Todd, and the other fireview folks - they'll have much better info. Cheers!
Congrats on the new stove and welcome,
I think your fine. Is this a cat probe you inserted into the back of the stove? If so the max cat temp is 1800, normal can be 800-1600 depending on the load and air setting. If that is a cat probe your measuring the external exhaust flow of the cat which can be much higher than double your external stove top. I think Woodstock is trying to say when the stove top comes up to 250 the fire should be up to 500 or so which is hot enough to engage the cat, the actual cat temps can be much higher after it kicks in.
The oxidation looking stuff may just be from the new paint inside, might just wipe or burn off. Don't think you hurt anything unless you see some warpage.
#2 setting seems pretty high, most here burn their Fireviews between .5- 1.5 try turning the air down after it gets going til the flames start to slow down and float above the logs, I'm betting if you have good dry wood you will be a little under #1 for a good efficient burn.
I think your fine. Is this a cat probe you inserted into the back of the stove? If so the max cat temp is 1800, normal can be 800-1600 depending on the load and air setting. If that is a cat probe your measuring the external exhaust flow of the cat which can be much higher than double your external stove top. I think Woodstock is trying to say when the stove top comes up to 250 the fire should be up to 500 or so which is hot enough to engage the cat, the actual cat temps can be much higher after it kicks in.
The oxidation looking stuff may just be from the new paint inside, might just wipe or burn off. Don't think you hurt anything unless you see some warpage.
#2 setting seems pretty high, most here burn their Fireviews between .5- 1.5 try turning the air down after it gets going til the flames start to slow down and float above the logs, I'm betting if you have good dry wood you will be a little under #1 for a good efficient burn.
Thank you for all your replies so far. in regard to the placement of the Condar probe, it is 8" in length and inserts on the upper back right side. Woodstock has a pre-drilled probe entrance there. Michael at Woodstock sold Condar unit to me. As for the stainless steel piece, that must have been a replacement after my purchase. I bought my Fireview in April for the off-season sale... granted it's only been firing since September. I've now asked Michael for a replacement unit of the new stainless scoop. He sent one at no charge. I'll probably install it at the end of the year. as of this moment, it's 24f in mn. the stovetop thermometers read about 350, the 8" probe is 1100, and the room is 75f. I should also mention that the chimney does not seem to have too strong of a draft but this is based my novice sense. I have stovepipe damper but have been advised not to use it. thanks again, all
Somehow I missed that thread on the stainless combustor scoop. I warped mine the first season I had the stove because I ran the stove too hot. Wasn't my fault, the air slide was off track and stove was getting too much air. I think I paid $14 for a new cast one and it hasn't warped at all the last 5 years.
Todd:
Was that scoop easy to replace? Looks like two bolts. It's amazing how stove parts for the Fireview are so reasonably priced. I was so used to paying two arms and two legs for VC parts.
Was that scoop easy to replace? Looks like two bolts. It's amazing how stove parts for the Fireview are so reasonably priced. I was so used to paying two arms and two legs for VC parts.
fire_man said:
Yeah, easy peasy, just 1 bolt right near the door and it slides right out, then you have to remove the screen which is 2 more bolts.
Todd - I've been running my damper around .7-1.2. This keeps the burn with a dark orange and blue, slow moving flame. I'm starting to wonder if my Condar probe is off. on a recent time I hit 550 on the 2 stovetop thermos (damper right around 1), the probe read at almost 1800. i backed the dampe down to about .8 on the Fireview, but it helf 550/1800 for another 30-40 minutes. This was when I started getting a bit concerned about the reddish colorization on the iron.
Those Condar probes aren't the most accurate thermometers. They are not a true probe and have the spring loaded thingy under the dial that is effected by the radiant heat from the stove which I think causes a higher reading. It has been tested here side by side with a thermo couple by a couple members and the Condars were a couple hundered degrees off and also seemed to be worse at higher temps. You can comfirm this by just blowing on the probe and it will dramatically decrease in temp. I think people are better off with using the external magnetic thermometers Woodstock provides, one on the stove top and the other on the pipe if single wall. I have found I watch my stack temps and the look of the fire more than the stove top temp. If your probe was maxed out for a long time with a stove top over 700 I might be worried but short spurts at 1800 and 700 are probably fine.
I think your in the clear. I get mine to 600 all the time of corse this is on the high end of the operating temp. I talked to woodstock about this a while ago and they had no problems with running it that high. I would think the soapstone and cast would be able to handle that temp, but the cat is what would fail at higher temps
I agree. I think you're OK. I have a fire going now, so I can't look at the baffle above the flames. I will look in the morning to see if I also have the reddish color.
My stove usually runs 450-550, but I've also had it up over 600 several times. I see know ill effects from that. Over 600 and the stove is CRANKING heat, so I don't do it too often. It makes the room it's in too warm.
My stove usually runs 450-550, but I've also had it up over 600 several times. I see know ill effects from that. Over 600 and the stove is CRANKING heat, so I don't do it too often. It makes the room it's in too warm.
Welcome Dylan, and thanks for your posts.
As the experts answer your questions, they'll educate me! :coolsmile:
More enlightened-self-interest points for Woodstock! It's a pleasure to read this.
Good luck with your stove--you're in good hands.
As the experts answer your questions, they'll educate me! :coolsmile:
dylanwest said:
More enlightened-self-interest points for Woodstock! It's a pleasure to read this.
Good luck with your stove--you're in good hands.
Welcome to the forum dylanwest and congratulations on the Fireview.
I fully agree with Todd on the thermometers. We also have one stove-top and one on the flue. We did run with just one for quite some time but found the additional one to be a big help.
Our normal setting on the draft is about .75. Sometimes we are on 1 and sometimes even on .5. It all depends upon the wood and the weather. We burn a lot of soft maple and ash. The soft maple is what we use the most during the daytime hours and that can burn hotter than the ash. But, we usually don't want as much heat during the daytime so we usually put in 3 splits or a few odd shaped pieces. Any logs with knots get burned during the day.
On the stove top temperature we've had our stove go over 700 (barely) a couple of times and for some reason had a problem last winter with it wanting to super heat. Strangely, that has not happened but one time since. We do regularly get the stove over 600 and even over 650 but the stove can take that easy.
btw, we had one fellow who was reporting stove top temperatures over 800
!! Now that would certainly make me a bit nervous.
I fully agree with Todd on the thermometers. We also have one stove-top and one on the flue. We did run with just one for quite some time but found the additional one to be a big help.
Our normal setting on the draft is about .75. Sometimes we are on 1 and sometimes even on .5. It all depends upon the wood and the weather. We burn a lot of soft maple and ash. The soft maple is what we use the most during the daytime hours and that can burn hotter than the ash. But, we usually don't want as much heat during the daytime so we usually put in 3 splits or a few odd shaped pieces. Any logs with knots get burned during the day.
On the stove top temperature we've had our stove go over 700 (barely) a couple of times and for some reason had a problem last winter with it wanting to super heat. Strangely, that has not happened but one time since. We do regularly get the stove over 600 and even over 650 but the stove can take that easy.
btw, we had one fellow who was reporting stove top temperatures over 800
!! Now that would certainly make me a bit nervous.
dylanwest said:
I don't know, I gave up looking and settled with the external magnet thermometers supplied by Woodstock. Maybe there is some kind of pricey digital thermo couple out there but I get by just fine. Sometimes too much info just gives you more to worry about.
Do you have single wall pipe or double wall? A pipe thermometer will also give you a rough guide to whats going on with the flue gases and is quicker to react than the thick soapstone top.
I thought about probe thermometers, but use the magnetic ones too. When I switched from a single wall top vent to rear horizontal vent (on a Keystone), I used double wall pipe and set the mag thermometer on the top of the pipe. From a stove top reference temp to the general noise a stove pipe makes when getting really hot, I have found the temps very similar to the ones on my vertical stack.
Bottom line is once you get used to your stove's burning characteristics and the danger zones, you can easily get by with a mag surface thermometer.
Good luck,
Bill
Bottom line is once you get used to your stove's burning characteristics and the danger zones, you can easily get by with a mag surface thermometer.
Good luck,
Bill
I'm with Todd and Dennis on the Condar probe thermometer. I purchased one and have been running it since I installed the Fireview a couple of months back. I don't pay much attention to it anymore...I wondered why Woodstock didn't provide or recommend a cat probe thermo but I think I now know...I tend to agree that they either aren't very accurate or they are influenced by external heat.
I haven't really built an all-out hot as I can get it fire in my stove yet (haven't needed to) but I have easily sent the condar into no-no land by a couple hundred degrees. (I don't think I have hit 500 on the stovetop thermo yet.) I was sweating bullets the first time this happened but eventually realized that something had to be wrong with the condar indications because 1. I was no where near the stovetop limits set by Woodstock, 2. I eventually found that it was a common occurance to be reading overtemps or right on the overtemp mark and 3. I was no where near having enough wood in my stove or using settings on my stove to be in an overfire situation. BTW, my stovetop thermo seems to agree very closely with my el-cheapo infrared thermo which seems to be pretty accurate all in all.
I have also seen some of what I assume to be red oxidation on the plate around the cat.
Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
God is good and I am blessed.
I haven't really built an all-out hot as I can get it fire in my stove yet (haven't needed to) but I have easily sent the condar into no-no land by a couple hundred degrees. (I don't think I have hit 500 on the stovetop thermo yet.) I was sweating bullets the first time this happened but eventually realized that something had to be wrong with the condar indications because 1. I was no where near the stovetop limits set by Woodstock, 2. I eventually found that it was a common occurance to be reading overtemps or right on the overtemp mark and 3. I was no where near having enough wood in my stove or using settings on my stove to be in an overfire situation. BTW, my stovetop thermo seems to agree very closely with my el-cheapo infrared thermo which seems to be pretty accurate all in all.
I have also seen some of what I assume to be red oxidation on the plate around the cat.
Hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
God is good and I am blessed.
Kenny, one of these days it will get cold down there and you'll find out just how much heat that little rock will throw! lol
Dennis, I may have to pack up my stove and make a road trip up your way to really stretch it out. I'm running about 1/4 to 1/3 loads right now (mostly pine) and it is about 77 degrees downstairs. :^) Probably 80 or better upstairs!! It's about 38 degrees outside right now.
God is good and I'm blessed!!
God is good and I'm blessed!!
Kenny: I'm jealous of your Fireview's ability to heat your house. I've been struggling lately to keep warm. I did well over the Christmas holidays when I was home and could burn the stove hotter (increasing the draft as the coals burned down). But since I'm back to work we can barely hit 70F and its warmer out. I really need the bigger Frankenstove but was bummed to hear they are not offering a buyback program. 55,000 BTU is not enough for cold New England winters in a 2300 sq. ft. house, even when burning Red Oak.
Tony,
What kind of stove top temps are you achieving and what air settings are you running at? 2300 sq ft is probably a bit over the limit for the Fireview but I can easily heat 2000 sq ft with mine no problem when the outside temps are >20. When it gets colder and windy the Keystone helps out.
What kind of stove top temps are you achieving and what air settings are you running at? 2300 sq ft is probably a bit over the limit for the Fireview but I can easily heat 2000 sq ft with mine no problem when the outside temps are >20. When it gets colder and windy the Keystone helps out.
Todd said:
Todd:
I am getting 550 F Peak temps on stovetop and 450 F front on the cast iron trim for a couple hours. I am burning Beech and Red Oak seasoned 2.5 years. Air setting is .75 initially and if I am around increased to 2-3 when the stovetop drops below 400 F.
The house has tons of huge double hung windows (I replaced 1/2 of them last year and it helped). I had more insulation blown into the attic last Summer. The stove is in a 22x22 ft room with cathedral ceiling, the overhead fan does not help even when reversed. It just makes the house drafty. House is 2x6 construction so the insulation is thick.I think it's just a BTU thing.
How warm is your house in the stove-room and in the furthest room when outside temp is 20F max? Maybe I don't want to know.
Todd said:
Todd:
I am getting 550 F Peak temps on stovetop and 450 F front on the cast iron trim for a couple hours, then starts to slowly drop. I am burning Beech and Red Oak seasoned 2.5 years. Air setting is .75 initially and if I am around increased to 2-3 when the stovetop drops below 400 F.
The house has tons of huge double hung windows (I replaced 1/2 of them last year and it helped). I had more insulation blown into the attic last Summer. The stove is in a 22x22 ft room with cathedral ceiling and cold garage below (insulated floor), the overhead fan does not help even when reversed. It just makes the house drafty. House is 2x6 construction so the insulation is thick.I think it's just a BTU thing.
How warm is your house in the stove-room and in the furthest room when outside temp is 20F max? Maybe I don't want to know.
When it's 30 F out I can get to 72 F in the stoveroom and 62 in the furthest room. When it's 20F out it's 65 in the stove room and upper 50's in the furthest room unless I burn the stove really hard, then maybe +2 degree improvement.
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