pen said:
Sorry but that chimney is not adequate.
Here is some info from the manual for your stove
Page 3:
A 6†diameter flue is required for proper performance.
Page 4:
WHY THE CORRECT FLUE SIZE IS IMPORTANT: 6â€
“Draft†is the force that moves air from the appliance up through the chimney. The amount of draft in
your chimney depends on the length of the chimney, local geography, nearby obstructions, and other
factors. Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in the appliance. An uncontrolled burn or
a glowing red part or chimney connector can indicate excessive draft. Inadequate draft may cause
back puffing into the room and “plugging†of the chimney and/or cause the appliance to leak smoke
into the room through appliance and chimney connector joints.
Today’s solid fuel appliances are much more efficient than in the past. The units are designed to give
you controlled combustion, as well as maximum heat transfer, using less fuel to do so.
The design of this heater is such that the exhaust "smoke" is now at lower temperatures than
in the past, requiring proper chimney size to provide adequate draft. If your chimney is too
large, the heater will have a difficult time raising the temperature of the flue enough to provide
adequate draft, which can cause a "smoke back," poor burn, or both.
Should you experience such problems, call in a local chimney expert.
With the door closed, the rate of burning is regulated by the amount of air allowed to enter the unit
through the air control. With experience, you will be able to set the control for heat and burning time
desired.
Attempts to achieve higher output rates that exceed heater design specifications can result in
permanent damage to the heater. The recommended wood load is level with the top of the firebricks.
Overloading may prevent sufficient air entering the heater to properly fuel the fire.
Do not tamper with the combustion air control beyond the normal adjustment capacity.
Operate this heater only with the door closed.
Page 13:
The minimum overall height of your chimney
should be 15 feet from the floor
Having any bends or offsets reduces draft which means you need even more height than 15 because of those.
In summation, that much single wall is losing a lot of heat that is needed to stay in the flue to keep it warm.
Additionally, as you go from 6 in to 8 inch your cross sectional area doubles which as the gas expands to fill it cools rapidly, and thus gives you less draft.
Even if this were double wall 6 in pipe straight from the top of the stove and out this is still too short of a chimney.
Add this in w/ sub-par wood and you are in a circumstance where you cannot win no matter what you do right now.
Also, your primary air does not come from those 2 little hole but rather air washes over your glass.
Sorry to give you the news but that chimney needs work. Maybe you could get lucky and make a big difference by just adding another section of 8 in pipe on outside and burning DRY wood? It might be worth a shot to shove some single wall pipe in it for testing to see if it makes a difference. Also go get some known seasoned fuel for testing.
pen
thanks. now here is what it says in the manual i got with the stove. (again, bought new from hd)
page 5-
2. FLUE SIZE
the proper flue size is determined by measuring the inside diameter of the flue collar on the unit. this stove is equipped with a six inch (6") TOP EXHAUST FLUE COLLAR. therefore, the connector pope should be six inches (6") and never less in diameter than the collar on the stov. your unit may require an adapter (ac-1677) which will reduce the 6" connector pope by 1/8". this is necessary to accommodate pope variation from different manufacturer's and maintain a good seal. the area of the chimney liner must also be equal to OR GREATER than the area of the flue collar on the stove. if the area of the flue is greater than the collar, it should not be more than two and 1/2 (2.5) times greater.
since i only went from 6 to 8 inch, i am within the bounds of the company's requirements.
and then on page 8---under pre-manufactured flue system:
the first, most popular and least expensive is through the ceiling and out the roof. this is the most direct route and creates a good draw because it requires less pipe. it is less expensive because insulated pipe is needed only from the ceiling to the roof and above--single wall 24 gauge or thicker pipe is used from the unit to the ceiling if you maintain the eighteen inches (18") clearance from all combustible material.
again, i am within the bounds of their requirements.
on line 13 of the INSTALLATION: (page 11 in my manual)
single wall flue pipe assemblies must not exceed 10 feet (10') in overall length.
good on this one, too.
my height from floor is about 13'...not 15, as recommended in manual
i doubt that 2' could make all the difference in the world, you know?
well, today, i used some wood that was stored inside all winter (dry). it was cut during the winter or 08-09 and bucked up and split in june of 09. left out side for a year, then inside for a year. i don't have a moisture meter, but i think it is well within the bounds of "dryness". (maple and cherry).
the stove got a little hotter, i got the flue temp up to 300 (with the door cracked) but when i closed the door and next, closed the air intake on the stove halfway, the fire began to die, and the temp dropped to 200 on the flue. flue temp is taken about 6-8 inches above the stove top on the single wall.
although, the stove did burn better, i have a long way to go to be satisfied yet.
i did think about putting an extra length of pipe on the top end to see how it would affect the issues...just didn't do it today.
so far it seems that the wood is part of the problem.
eric is NFI certified and understands flue dynamics quite well, if you are still fighting things give him a yell
