First indoor boiler install Need advice.

[Wyld Bill]

I have been using the woodstove/fireplace forums for a week or two now I am installing a HS Tarm wood boiler with/for a buddy of mine. The install seems to be going pretty good. I am using a ARGO 6 zone circ. pump controller & a Honeywell T775A staging controller for controls.
My question is what boiler water temperature should I:
1. Kick on the circulator for the main/primary loop?
2. Turn on the fossil fuel boiler?
3. Turn on a alarm or indicator light to tell my buddy that he needs to go check the fire (low temp.)
4. Turn on main heating loop as a dump zone because the temp. is too high.
5. Turn on basement dump zone & high temp. alarm or indicator light upstairs.

???? I might have problem because max on the controller is 220 degrees then it shuts off all loads until it cools down to 220 again.

 

[4acrefarm]

I can't answer your questions, but I do know the guys that can will want more information. method of distribution, and what temp you want there( radiant,baseboard, ?). I have radiant, I run it at *125 My oil kicks on around *105.

 

[Wyld Bill]

Oh yeah sorry. He is running baseboard heat. It is a primary/secondary loop piping set up. So one pump runs all the time & pumps water through the wood boiler, the oil boiler, the supply manifold, & back through the return manifold. On the return manifold are the four pumps for the zones.

 

[Willman]

Make certain that you have adequate protection for the boiler. It needs return water at a certain degree to prevent problems. Check your manual or somebody will post what the tarm likes for temp.

Will

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Corrosive (acidic) flu gasses will condense at around 140 degrees F. and fall back into the boiler (as opposed to going out the stack) and therefore running your boiler at below that temperature will corrode the boiler. Therefore you would probably want to shut down your primary circulator at 140 degrees so you are not dropping your boiler below the condensing point if a zone is calling for heat while the boiler is on the cold side. Better to starve a calling zone for 10-15 minutes or so until the boiler recovers some heat than to eat up the metal and greatly shorten the lifespan of the boiler.

 

[Wyld Bill]

Make certain that you have adequate protection for the boiler. It needs return water at a certain degree to prevent problems. Check your manual or somebody will post what the tarm likes for temp.

Will

Yeah it had this funky 2 way, 3 port valve that we piped in. It says 70 on it.

 

[Wyld Bill]

Corrosive (acidic) flu gasses will condense at around 140 degrees F. and fall back into the boiler (as opposed to going out the stack) and therefore running your boiler at below that temperature will corrode the boiler. Therefore you would probably want to shut down your primary circulator at 140 degrees so you are not dropping your boiler below the condensing point if a zone is calling for heat while the boiler is on the cold side. Better to starve a calling zone for 10-15 minutes or so until the boiler recovers some heat than to eat up the metal and greatly shorten the lifespan of the boiler.

Oh yeah good info. I never thought of that.