Fisher Stove Question???

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pbtwait

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 24, 2009
7
alaska
Have a question concerning my fisher wood stove.. It is a smaller fisher, 2 front drafts with a single door. Problem is, it has a rear vent, not top, and is 12 ft to the double wall metal asbestos in the 2nd floor of our 25X30 log cabin. It is a full 12 feet from the back the older unidentified metalbestos 6 inch double wall up above, pipe is older and solid but identified for matches...We love the stove but have had stack problems that are so numerous over the last 3 yrs we have considered a new stove with a flue on top. Twelve feet is a long unsupported distance, could anyone help me with connections, stack stability and leaking has been an ongoing issue..Any suggestion would be appreciated!!
 
Not sure what to tell you on the support issue, but when we had a pipe related leak it was due to water running down the vertical seam on the section of Class A that penetrated both the roof and the living space. The installer didn't run the bead of silicone all the way up the seam, and water would leak behind the half bead and run down the vertical seam on the pipe. It would then collect in the ceiling support box and drip onto the stove. Finishing the bead up the seam fixed the problem.
 
Not sure what leaking you are speaking of but if it is the brown/black tar type, then the pipe might be installed upside down. Crimped end goes down.

Should be no problem with a rear vent; just takes a 90 elbow. With the height of the flue that elbow would cause no problems except when it come time to clean the pipe. Then just remove it, clean the pipe and put it back together. A very easy task.

Not sure why your stack is unstable. It shouldn't be and I would not burn if it was. Could be very nasty.
 
Do you have screws holding your singlewall together? I wouldn't burn if I was worried about my pipe staying in one piece.

Matt
 
in my boat shop, i ran 1/4"ss cable{old mast rigging} from floor to ceiling between two eye bolts with aturn buckle for tension along side 14' of single wall and lashed every 4' with stainless wire to solve same problem with big warner plate stove with rear flue. 1/4"ss cable, turnbuckle,eye bolt setups also used as deck railings and can be found at good home improvement stores if theres no marine stores close by.doesn't look bad but stick with stainless tie wire as regular bailing wire rusts out fast.
 
My brother had the same problem and we cut the flue hole out of the back and installed it into the top. We put a new piece of plate on the back and its better than new. Any good welder / fabricator can do it, the fishers are nothing more than steel plate box's anyway. Mine is a top flue but it is a larger model.
 
To everyone who replied regarding my fisher stove and its issues, THANK YOU!! I purchased some simpson dura vent pipe from the local box store yesterday, which I liked as it was heavy and sturdy, even for single wall...Previously I had used the snap together pipe, and had indeed installed it upside down...After hooking up the entire pipe I fired it up and some joints were still smoking. My neighbor, who has been burning wood for 40 + years came by and said the flue was blocked!! As it turns out the vent cap was full of kreosote. He removed it, and I burned a hot fire for about 2 hrs, which not only burned the oil off the pipe, but also assured me that the pipe was still tight and working properly. As it has already been well below freezing 2 times here in the last week. Im glad its finally working properly. I will still have an additional support mage for the lonfg length, as was suggested. Additionally I am going to have a ladder built for my steep picg steel roof so I can brush out the stack on a regular basis...Again I appreciate the suggestions...Will keep reading and burning wood to heat our home!!
 
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