Does anyone know if there is any material out there that shows how to properly flash around a chimney at the roofline? I am a mason and I do know how to do it but I don't really like the way I was tought. I'm looking to simplify the process as I have been getting alot of calls lately for chimney replacements.
flashing
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Henz
New Member
I'm not a mason, but this info appears to be out there. Would either of these sources help?
http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17758/
http://www.rumford.com/chimneys/flashing.html
If you ever get a job with copper flashing:
http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/chimney.html
Here is a basic system:
http://roofingcontractorreview.com/Basic-Chimney-Flashing.html
http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17758/
http://www.rumford.com/chimneys/flashing.html
If you ever get a job with copper flashing:
http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/chimney.html
Here is a basic system:
http://roofingcontractorreview.com/Basic-Chimney-Flashing.html
those do help, I do something similar. I guess there isn't a easy way to do it. It is a very tedious job! Thanks
ScottF
New Member
Sace, I did mine 2 chimneys in a very similar manner to the articles BE Green posted but instead of using sheet metal I used sheet lead. It is easier to bend and form right on the roof. Most chimneys in this area are done with sheet lead but with similar techniques.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Scott in IN said:
A cutoff saw with diamond blade. Cut a groove and set a reglet flashing in there.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
I have done them every way show that you posted links to BG.
If I have the time, I prefer the Lock, seam & solder method. Its the old school method and if done properly, will last longer at least a couple generations.
I have done a variation similar to the last link that instead of a large level pc of metal running the mortar joint on each sides, I cut a groove on an angle parallel with the roof down each side and put a counter flashing in that way & caulk with good sealant, could outlast me.
This works real well on stone & other surfaces that have no specific pattern of mortar joints.
If I have the time, I prefer the Lock, seam & solder method. Its the old school method and if done properly, will last longer at least a couple generations.
I have done a variation similar to the last link that instead of a large level pc of metal running the mortar joint on each sides, I cut a groove on an angle parallel with the roof down each side and put a counter flashing in that way & caulk with good sealant, could outlast me.
This works real well on stone & other surfaces that have no specific pattern of mortar joints.
todays sealants will last adecade or so and with proper counter flashing with your roofing it will not leak inless the rodents chew up your lead. then again your masonary work could wick in moisture, there are many different masonary sealants on the market. sometimes the wind just blows in the wrong direction. for that i rely on interior flashing with sheetrock buckets. what ever u do dont use tar!
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