Flue outlet size on eko 40

[huffdawg]

Hi im wondering if anybody else had problems with installing their smoke pipe to their eko 40. The boiler OD is 7-7/8 and the ID. is 7-11/16 so the 8" to 7" adapter I bought does not fit.

is a crimped end to go in to the boiler end or into the smoke pipe. I can buy them either way. But when I try the one with the crimped end into the boiler it is to big to fit into the opening.
and when I tried the adapter with the crimped end into the smoke pipe . The end that goes onto the boiler fits loosely.

Is the boiler metric or what.

Cheers Huff

 

[mr.fixit]

I used a 8" T right off the back of the boiler. It did fit a little loose so I used hi temp. silicone to fill the gap. Used 3 or 4 screws to secure.Over 1 year now still sealed perfect.The T works good because any fly ash that makes its way up there ends up in the bottom of the T,verses a elbow where it could plug up.

 

[Medman]

I used an 8" to 7" doublewall black pipe reducer to go from the Eko to the pipe. It fits a little loosely, but I used hi-temp sealant and screws to secure it. You may have to drill holes in the Eko flue collar - I did. After one year I replaced the reducer with the draft inducer, which fits even worse on the flue collar.

 

[rkusek]

I returned by double wall black pipe and bought single wall to go from the stove to the ceiling for this reason. It is an odd size. I found a short connector piece of single wall black that fit very snug at an ACE Hardware. Used a tee from here and straight up to the ceiling to the Class A (Selkirk type) adapter. Also drilled a couple small holes in EKO flue to screw it on for good measure. I know others at the time mentioned it fitting loose and using hight temp silicone to seal it up. I think that is the route most people take. Wouldn't hurt to try your local ACE hardware though. The puffing that can occur sometimes when burning will make you feel glad your pipe is tight when plenty of screws. Someone even told me they riveted their pipe but I've never seen that before. Make sure your clearances are good for single wall.

 

[huffdawg]

Ok thanx for the help guys. I went down to the local sheet metal guy here and he said he will reduce the 8" end of the reducer by 1/8 by crimping it more. the ID of the boiler outlet is 7-11/16 .
We will see how that works in the morning


Cheers Huff

 

[huffdawg]

I used an 8" to 7" doublewall black pipe reducer to go from the Eko to the pipe. It fits a little loosely, but I used hi-temp sealant and screws to secure it. You may have to drill holes in the Eko flue collar - I did. After one year I replaced the reducer with the draft inducer, which fits even worse on the flue collar.

I picked up some hi temp sealant today and it says its good for steady 500 °F temps or shorter periods as high as as 600 °F , what sort of stack temps do you get at the boiler exit?

 

[stee6043]

I used the stuff rated for 500 and it has been holding up fine. I did melt some off during an unfortunate "forgot to close the damper" incident last year. So I have proven the limit on the RTV is pretty close to stated temps...

 

[Medman]

I agree with Stee. I have had good luck with the stuff rated at 500* except when I forgot to close the damper. I have also used the cement-type sealant, but that stuff hardens and should only be used where there is no need to ever remove it.

 

[huffdawg]

Thanx medman and stee . I will put some 1/4 " gasket on the od of the boiler flue outlet and then silicone it from the inside of inucer box . Looks like t will be a pain trying to get the silicone in behind the fan cowling.

 

[in hot water]

I think having a sheetmetal shop build the exact adapter is the best method. I don't like depending on a bead of silicone to make the seal. All the other connections in the flue pipe work fine with the correct fit and no sealants.

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