For Sale Not Working Stihl Chainsaw Question

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I avoid power/air/battery tools with torx bolts on saws. It is just way too east to strip the threads on aluminum and magnesium parts with steel threads.

Use impact for fastener removal, not re installation.
 
I avoid power/air/battery tools with torx bolts on saws. It is just way too easy to strip the threads on aluminum and magnesium parts with steel threads.

+1

T-handle torx drivers generate more than enough torque. I know this because I've snapped a cylinder bolt with one LOL! Most OPE torx bolts/screws spec around 15 in-lbs or less.
 
I avoid power/air/battery tools with torx bolts on saws. It is just way too easy to strip the threads on aluminum and magnesium parts with steel threads.
It's a different game when you're "on the clock" and that particular driver is excellent for this kind of work. It's not a power monster (only 7.2v but you still have to be careful) and it saves me a TON of time and carpal tunnel. Backpack blowers are particularly murderous when it comes time to split the housings.
 
But how many people here are on the clock? We are talking about pulling a muffler and having a peek at the P&C.
 
+1 on MM's advise on a good deal - as he said, parts (plastics, etc.) are worth that $ easy - if near me, I'd have bought it already. T27 is standard torx for most Stihl fasteners I've worked on - and Scotty's right, a lot of kits miss the 27. I bought a high quality single t-handle T27 for exactly this use, and a cheapo torx kit with the other sizes that don't get used a lot in the saw shop. Cheers!
 
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