Stihl MS 290 vs Husky Question

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I’m afraid to drop start! I place the saw on the ground, toe goes in the handle to press the throttle, and I pull the cord. The saw is pinned to the ground and starts.
 
I've never had any issues sharpening by hand before. I've been doing it forever and gotten pretty quick. It's a nice break from cutting. This one was just a mess and rather than waste more time I just had it done. First time in 10 years of cutting I brought a chain in. I don't regret it at all though, my time was better spent working elsewhere.

Yeah the 250c is a great little saw for $300 but not good value for $500. I'd rather pay a little extra and get a 55cc engine and 20" bar looked a 261 or a husky rancher. That'll handle any size yard tree log delivery very easily. I got my husky 440 for $300 pre COVID and gotten my money's worth, it doesn't owe me anything. Once I get a a bigger saw I'll still use it for the smaller stuff.

The starter is just whatever. Yes if you follow the processor to a T it does work and it's less effort than a standard start saw but that doesn't mean it's a good product. I did it more annoying and finicky than it's worth and starting a standard 45 cc engine is very easy standard pull. It's not some 20 hp snowblower you're going to throw your back out pulling. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Give me a regular start saw any day.
That rubber band starter is junk. I got a 250 when my dad quit cutting. I took it to the dealer and had an old school put on. They couldn't figure out why I would do that.....
 
That rubber band starter is junk. I got a 250 when my dad quit cutting. I took it to the dealer and had an old school put on. They couldn't figure out why I would do that.....
Actually my father wants to do the same thing. He's going to have the shop do it next time he goes in. He's had enough of it.
 
I’m afraid to drop start! I place the saw on the ground, toe goes in the handle to press the throttle, and I pull the cord. The saw is pinned to the ground and starts.

Thats the safest way, if your boot toe fits into the handle loop enough to hold the saw down.

A safer way than drop starting is to brace the rear handle behind your right leg. It's almost as convenient as drop starting but safer.
One drawback is not being able to hold the throttle open. Most saws have high idle positions on their choke or combined choke and kill switch controls which can be used instead.
 
I have to say the drop start is a bit sketchy with the ms250. I still do it, but because the saw is so light, and the compression so high, the bar can whip right towards your leg as you pull the cord. You have to be very cognizant of this if you drop start.

This doesn't happen as much (if ever to me) with the 029 because it is heavier and has a different balance.

I'm definitely not recommending drop start, it has more risk for sure.
 
I think the real question here is do you buy the 550 xp mark II or the MS 261 cm.

::-)
 
I think the real question here is do you buy the 550 xp mark II or the MS 261 cm.

::-)
I like the orange saws but have limited experience with the Husky's. I have a small 16" husky that the muffler melted a hole in the plastic bar oil reservoir. The saw was given to me and i'm ready to give it away after jb welding the tank and only running it infrequently. That tank design failure tainted my experience and thoughts towards husky.

My neighbor does like his 18" older husky but borrowed my ms 250 and really liked it.
 
I love my husky 440. It works really well for me I just want something nicer for my next saw. I want my next saw to be a 50cc 20". The 550 xp mark II and Ms 261cm are the top end pro models in that size range.

Probably won't be for a year or two. I just invested in a new splitter I'll post a new thread then on those saws!
 
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I would like a pro saw too, but honestly my 90's Stihl 029super has never let me down. Now it's got a metal body and was built better than the new ms 290's i think. (Saw rebuilders feel free to correct me on build quality).

That said i'm not sure a same size pro saw would have helped me out that much more over the many years, and many many cords this saw has been thru.

It's never needed a rebuild and still has good compression. It's been thru only 1 oem bar and many chains. I cleaned the carb last year (probably should have done this a few years earlier), and it's run well for most of it's life. I don't remember if i ever cleaned the carb before? Really just need clean fuel and to clean and replace the air filter often.

I've never felt the need to Mod the muffler. It's just been a solid performer for 25-30 years or so and still going strong. I expect it to keep performing till it reaches 50.

Not sure i can ask for more that that.
 
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You will not be disappointed in this saw....mine has worked flawlessly for 4 years or so of cutting.. Pro quality saw at a good price comparatively.
 

You will not be disappointed in this saw....mine has worked flawlessly for 4 years or so of cutting.. Pro quality saw at a good price comparatively.
One small problem with that saw is Makita has stopped building gas powered equipment.
So basically the saw is a discontinued model and parts will become an issue at some point.
 
It also handles like a cinder block. A very odd feeling saw, imo. Ditto on Makita abandoning their Dolmar line.

Many seem to like the 6100 tho 🤷‍♂️
 
Just spotted a Stihl 026 for $300. They claim it's in excellent shape.
 
Oh yeah i forgot that i got my saw used and it had the "safety chain" on it, i think that's how it comes new. That chain stinks. I replaced it with the full chisel chain i posted up a few posts. It's so much better.
Full chisel chain can still be safety chain. Most readily available .325 is indeed safety chain. Semi chisel and full chisel simply refer to a rounded or square side plate to top plate transition
 
So far, I've never met a messed chain I cannot fix with files. Unfortunately I mess a lot of chains....cutting in sandy land and clearing fencelines will do that. And then there's the occasional really bad hit..

There is no need whatsoever to have every tooth the same length. It's only important to have each tooth the same height relative to its raker. Even not having the exact same profile on every tooth, while not desirable or particularly efficient, does not keep a chain from cutting reasonable fast and/or straight. The only depth gauge I am aware of that's worth the metal it's made of is the husky progressive raker gauge. They are a ridiculously overpriced piece of tin, but make consistent raker settings easy.
I agree with this completely. Match each tooth to its raker and you are fine. Cut out a few massive stumps just below ground level that tested my patience with a file. The husky combo tool that has the fold out depth gauge can get you all fixed up every time. It’s a must have when you don’t have your readers.
 
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Full chisel chain can still be safety chain. Most readily available .325 is indeed safety chain. Semi chisel and full chisel simply refer to a rounded or square side plate to top plate transition
Ok, The chain i recommended is not a safety chain. It's comparable to the yellow stihl chain. I prefer the full chisel square cutter which is also what was suggested.
 
Safety chain can be fixed with an angle grinder and a few minutes time.
 
One small problem with that saw is Makita has stopped building gas powered equipment.
So basically the saw is a discontinued model and parts will become an issue at some point.
Sure. ......but I would think that buying a saw now would be safe. Parts generally don't disappear that quickly, besides the fact we are talking about a chainsaw....not that many parts to begin with. Especially for a guy who cuts wood in his driveway.