Getting Ready to Poke a hole in my roof

[PunKid8888]

I plan on cutting up my ceiling and installing my support box, and then weather permitting cutting the hole in the roof. My experience is not much when it comes to house stuff but I am extremely handy and will try to tackle anything myself first. I should have my cousin on hand for some of it, and he is a self employed finish carpenter by trade and he is usually pretty capable of any project. Layout will consist of a central located wood stove (Englander 13) which will be next to the exposed single flue chimney, but have a straight vertical chimney, 6ft of single wall then 9ft of insulated through the Attic and out (maybe a little more depending on peak). Should be a straight forward install I think.

So any last words of advice?

 

[firefighterjake]

I plan on cutting up my ceiling and installing my support box, and then weather permitting cutting the hole in the roof. My experience is not much when it comes to house stuff but I am extremely handy and will try to tackle anything myself first. I should have my cousin on hand for some of it, and he is a self employed finish carpenter by trade and he is usually pretty capable of any project. Layout will consist of a central located wood stove (Englander 13) which will be next to the exposed single flue chimney, but have a straight vertical chimney, 6ft of single wall then 9ft of insulated through the Attic and out (maybe a little more depending on peak). Should be a straight forward install I think.

So any last words of advice?

Make sure a hurricaine isn't in the forecast when you cut the hole in your roof.

Just kidding. Good luck. Make sure nothing is in the way (i.e. plumbing, joists, etc.) and remember the 10-3 rule.

 

[PunKid8888]

Does that rule apply to another chimney?

 

[WES999]

I installed my stove/chimney last year, all went well, you can read about it here (pics too).
It is a bit intimidating to take a sawzall and cut a big hole in the roof but it turned out fine , no leaks

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/28385/

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/28386/

 

[DAKSY]

First of all get your stove in its final position & attach the connector.
With a magnetic torpedo level, get the connector plumb & mark the centerline on your ceiling.
The easiest way that I found to do this is to run a 3 or 4 ft level
in contact with the connector up to the ceiling & make a mark.
Do this on all four sides of the pipe & with a ruler or tape measure,
find the center of the layout marks.
You can now layout the location for your ceiling support box.
Once that's done start to build your Class A & find the centerline
on the underside of the roof sheathing using the same method.
Use a long drill bit - I use a 1/4 dia x 12" long - to drill thru at the centerline.
Leave the drill bit thru the roofing & go up on the roof.
Use your magnetic torpedo to get the drill bit plumb.
Lay your flashing over the drill bit & center it on the top flashing cone.
Line the bottom edge up with your shingle line so it'll look good when done.
Take a yellow or white crayon & trace the outline of the bottom of the cone on your shingles.
The finished crayon line will be in the shape of an ellipse
With a sawzall & using the crayon line as a template, cut out the ellipse about 1" OUTSIDE the
crayon line. This will give you a little extra room if you need it to maintain a plumb system that meets the clearance to combustibles.
PM me if my instructions aren't clear...

 

[Hogwildz]

I believe 10-3 rule applies to combustibles. Maybe a code guy will chime in to confirm or deny.

 

[Metal]

Make sure you know where your ceiling studs and trusses are before you start chopping, it is much easier to plan your route ahead of time to go between them then to have to cut them and add additional supports. Also, silicone any seams above the roof-line, it will keep future leaks at bay, and tread lightly on the shingles.

 

[Metal]

Nope, the 10-3-2 rule applies to roof top.

If the horizontal distance from the side of the chimney to the peak of the roof is 1 feet or less, the top of the chimney must be at least 2 feet above the peak of the roof, but never less than 3 feet in overall height above the highest point where it passes through the roof.

If the horizontal distance from the side of the chimney to the peak of the roof is more than 10 feet, a chimney height reference point is established on the surface of the roof a distance of 10 feet from the side of the chimney in a horizontal plane. The top of the chimney must be at least 2 feet above this reference point, but never less then 3 feet in height above the highest point where it passes through the roof.

 

[cmonSTART]

Best advice: Measure twice. Cut once.

 

[PunKid8888]

Well it took a lot longer then I thought because I could not get enough class A chimney locally. Anyways here's how the project broke down.

I was nervous about my location, stove pipe would be roughly 18 inches from and existing brick chimney and 10inches from the peak. so basically my fear was in the flashing and the shingles. But my cousin is amazing when it comes down to it. He said it would be challenging but agreed that a straight through design would be a far better system then with bends. We only had two goofs through out the project. one was for the support box, we used a ceiling joinst to mount it only to realize the roof rafter was on the inboard side, so we had to shift that, not a big deal. During the shingle process he was very good at saving all the old shingles and laying them back in where they came from, he made one miss measure and cut too much off one, but we were able to borrow another to save it. Between the shingles, roof peak, ridge vent and brick chimney it was time consuming but it worked great. I have not finished the install in the house yet, still need a hearth.

Here are a few concerns. The Duraplus chimney kit mentions nothing of supporting the insulated pipe after the ceiling box. currently it can move side to side (1/2inch) in the flashing. I plan on tomorrow trying to tighten up the flashing (its got v bends for venting) but I think it really could use a strap inside the attic for a little rigidity. I have 8ft in the attic, and 4ft past the roof penetration point. I would like to keep the support inside the attic for simplicity, but if need be I can use the brick chimney out side. What do you guys use to support it?

I know this probably makes no sense without pictures. I will take some in the morning

 

[Hogwildz]

I believe DuraVent makes a rafter support for inside the attic that supports the chimney as it mounts between 2 rafters.
at 8' you should support that stretch in the attic.

Oops, link deleted, that was for DurTech, didn't find one for DuraPlus

You may have to use either of outsiide roof support bracket or maybe a wall support bracket mounted to the brick chimney if its close enough.