I have done a smoke test on the stove and stove pipe about a half a dozen times or so and have never found any leaks but today with the high winds out of the south I tried it again and guess what, I have leaks all over this pipe and this is the heat fab 22 gauge welded seam super duper pipe. One of the leaks is my fault and one is where it goes into the pipe for the chimney support. I now think I just did the smoke test on the stove pipe with the old set up and not this one as I am getting old and forgetful. Not sure if I will get the chance to fix it before my work trip next week or not as I had to order a new piece of pipe. Sorry for all the time I wasted of yours :red: , not sure if this will fix everthing but it wont hurt, I thought leaks in the stove pipe lowered the flue temps.
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Quick question, are those slip connectors prone to leaking, I thought my slip connector may have been too short but after some more checking I thinks it fine and the new pipe I ordered wont fix the problem, maybe just have to cement all the joints.
The slip joint pipes are not air tight. (but by the design, I kinda knew that, but didn't know how important it was with the new stove)
They rely on a good draft to pull air "in" through the leaky spots.
My new stove wouldn't burn on low because of the leaks, I installed double wall pipe & sealed the joints.
I use a bic lighter & found a few of the joints sucking in air. The leak reduce the draft, cool the gasses & when you get a back draft spew out smoke & CO.
They worked well with hot fires burning on high but not on low, slow burns.
I think the stove pipe manufactures are just catching up with the new requirements of the new more efficient stoves.
Tight stove pipe & chimney joints are very important for the cooler exhaust temps of the new stoves.
Dry wood is one key, but does nothing to address the leaks & cooler exhaust temps.
I folded 4 layers of tin foil into 2" wide strips & wrapped the seams to get thru the season & plan on sealing the joints this summer with something. Not sure what yet though.
I though about wrapping the whole double wall stove pipe with tin foil but thought that might look "hill-billy", so I just wrapped the joints.
They rely on a good draft to pull air "in" through the leaky spots.
My new stove wouldn't burn on low because of the leaks, I installed double wall pipe & sealed the joints.
I use a bic lighter & found a few of the joints sucking in air. The leak reduce the draft, cool the gasses & when you get a back draft spew out smoke & CO.
They worked well with hot fires burning on high but not on low, slow burns.
I think the stove pipe manufactures are just catching up with the new requirements of the new more efficient stoves.
Tight stove pipe & chimney joints are very important for the cooler exhaust temps of the new stoves.
Dry wood is one key, but does nothing to address the leaks & cooler exhaust temps.
I folded 4 layers of tin foil into 2" wide strips & wrapped the seams to get thru the season & plan on sealing the joints this summer with something. Not sure what yet though.
I though about wrapping the whole double wall stove pipe with tin foil but thought that might look "hill-billy", so I just wrapped the joints.
Attachments
Any idea how big of a deal is this? Using Dave's bic lighter test, I don't see any flame movement at all around any of the DVL seams but the connection between the DVL and the ceiling adapter sucks the flame in pretty good. What is the right way to seal that joint?
Well I been searching and it seems like furnace cement is the way to go, the silicone sealant is rated too low. For what ever reason the flame test works much better than a smoke test, my stove pipe still passes the smoke test for the most part but not the flame test.
I do think this is a big deal on my stove and have changed my mind on how important this is, with a EPA stove that thrives on draft everthing in the system is important.
I do think this is a big deal on my stove and have changed my mind on how important this is, with a EPA stove that thrives on draft everthing in the system is important.
Isn't furnace cement a one way trip though? That is one thing with the chimney but do you want that on the stove pipe connections?
Kinda the only game in town, when you take it apart you have to redo it, I hope some one else chimnes in but it seems like no other options to speak of.
SolarAndWood said:
Its about the only stuff that is gonna work. I'm not sure I follow the question of "One way trip".
One way trip meaning permanent. I think the cement can be broken off but it will be hard to remove completely.
That stuff is easy to get off for the most part, gets real crumbly. I thought it came off easily maybe not.Highbeam said:
How did you secure the tin foil?bogydave said:The slip joint pipes are not air tight. (but by the design, I kinda knew that, but didn't know how important it was with the new stove)
They rely on a good draft to pull air "in" through the leaky spots.
My new stove wouldn't burn on low because of the leaks, I installed double wall pipe & sealed the joints.
I use a bic lighter & found a few of the joints sucking in air. The leak reduce the draft, cool the gasses & when you get a back draft spew out smoke & CO.
They worked well with hot fires burning on high but not on low, slow burns.
I think the stove pipe manufactures are just catching up with the new requirements of the new more efficient stoves.
Tight stove pipe & chimney joints are very important for the cooler exhaust temps of the new stoves.
Dry wood is one key, but does nothing to address the leaks & cooler exhaust temps.
I folded 4 layers of tin foil into 2" wide strips & wrapped the seams to get thru the season & plan on sealing the joints this summer with something. Not sure what yet though.
I though about wrapping the whole double wall stove pipe with tin foil but thought that might look "hill-billy", so I just wrapped the joints.
oldspark said:How did you secure the tin foil?bogydave said:The slip joint pipes are not air tight. (but by the design, I kinda knew that, but didn't know how important it was with the new stove)
They rely on a good draft to pull air "in" through the leaky spots.
My new stove wouldn't burn on low because of the leaks, I installed double wall pipe & sealed the joints.
I use a bic lighter & found a few of the joints sucking in air. The leak reduce the draft, cool the gasses & when you get a back draft spew out smoke & CO.
They worked well with hot fires burning on high but not on low, slow burns.
I think the stove pipe manufactures are just catching up with the new requirements of the new more efficient stoves.
Tight stove pipe & chimney joints are very important for the cooler exhaust temps of the new stoves.
Dry wood is one key, but does nothing to address the leaks & cooler exhaust temps.
I folded 4 layers of tin foil into 2" wide strips & wrapped the seams to get thru the season & plan on sealing the joints this summer with something. Not sure what yet though.
I though about wrapping the whole double wall stove pipe with tin foil but thought that might look "hill-billy", so I just wrapped the joints.
Friction, There are screws in the joints. I made it long enough to be able to fold, roll the ends together snug,
then ran my finger along the seam, the foil molded fairly well to the screws, pipe & seams.
The worst leaker in mine was the adjustable sliding piece ( The one just above the stove adapter .)
I need it to be able to take the pipe off & vacuum the ash out of the bypass area once a yea r (according to the book)
The stove guy told me there was some black caulking or something that can be applied to the joint seams.
That might be just for double wall & could be the high temp silicone stuff you've mentioned.
Thought about using high temp black paint & spraying it so it looks better
Maybe I could just wrap the whole black stove pipe with foil & it would all be silver
May be "triple wall pipe if I did that & seal any small leak I missed.
I did it while the stove was running with the bypass closed, the pipe was not too hot to work on.
Had another idea,
Could you run a piece of flexible chimney liner from the stove to the chimney, all one piece, no joints or air leaks (except the stove & chimney connection.)?
Does it come in black?
Does it have to be black?
Could you run a piece of flexible chimney liner from the stove to the chimney, all one piece, no joints or air leaks (except the stove & chimney connection.)?
Does it come in black?
Does it have to be black?
SolarAndWood said:
I'm not sure the tests are showing you the same on a Simpson DVL. Since the pipe has an air chamber that could be drawing in the flame. The air chamber on the top/bottom of the pipe on the DVL are open, the heat in the pipe could be drawing the flame in. I don't think there is anyway to test if the flame is getting pulled into the air chamber or getting into the stoves exhaust. If I'm thinking this out wrong let me know.
I think furnace cement is a solution for a single wall but would create a mess on a double wall pipe imo.
ohlongarm
Minister of Fire
I'm hoping someone comes up with a solution to this,my stove doesn't like to run low about 2 is my lowest,I had some flame flickering and sputtering on the 3 screws on the first section of double wall which is approximately 18 inches in length. But nothing on the remaining double wall going into the chimney. My setup is identical to Daves only my run is about 6 feet into the chimney. I'm actually wondering if it makes that much of a difference.Anyway I will work the bugs out one way or another.
There have been some people report that it made a noticable difference when they fixed the leaks in their stove pipe. I wrapped my joints (he said joints) in tin foil just to see if it helps, will let you know later tonight.ohlongarm said:
I like what sealing my stove pipe has done. The aircraft cargo tape is holding up nicely and has servived repeated top temps as high as 700 degrees plus has held the pipe togther securely through 3 removels. In fact since the screws where always loosening up on their own the tape has held the pipe better. And the cargo tape looks nice. It feels and looks like cloth and goes on smooth unlike the foil tape.
ohlongarm
Minister of Fire
I did a google search and found one source here http://cshyde.thomasnet.com/viewite...pes-with-adhesive-fiberglass-tapes?&forward=1. Its basically single sided fiberglass tape silicon coated used for flame spraying. Rated -100 to +500 degrees. Looks to be very cheap and comes in various widths. I used 1". I would get the heavy grade premium. It has not offered to come loose at all. I haven't tried to remove it yet myself. It will darken in color once heated but that hasn't appeared to effect performance.
ohlongarm
Minister of Fire
I'm using Rutland's furnace cement to seal the joints.It works.When I want to clean the pipe or disconnect I tap the pipe when cool with a rubber mallet and the cement crumbles away.I then reconnect and recement.Very simple.I have also used silver heat tape.It will off gas for a while then adhere to the pipe and give a good seal for two or three years.
My flue temps seem to be even higher with the foil covering the leaky joints, seems like I have to turn the stove down more to tame the flue temps, not what I was hopeing for, will seal joints better first chance I get.
ohlongarm
Minister of Fire
Saw on the internet ,CS Hyde Company,tape mfg'ers silicon self adhesing tape rated to >500* comes in black spoke to them, I think this is a fix for leaky stovepipe joints not too expensive we'll see.
ohlongarm said:
We'll wait on your report of the results.
Sound like the stuff will do the job.
http://www.cshyde.com/Tapes/Data/SilSelfFusinfo.htm
Black tape would look better on my pipe.
Good find
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