Got a bucking question for y'all.

MasterMech Posted By MasterMech, Nov 13, 2012 at 4:34 AM

  1. MasterMech


    I'm cutting almost exclusively 24"+ Red Oak blowdown right now (post-Sandy) and when I get near the base, the trunk is often sunk into the ground 6-8" or more. Most of the time the root ball doesn't attempt to stand back up so I have to face some subterranean bucking situations. Anybody have some tricks for keeping the saw outta the dirt? Right now I'm saving those for last and just filing before headed out again.
  2. Bocefus78

    Minister of Fire

    Jul 27, 2010
    Just Outside Indy
    Big pry bar (5-6') really helps to break em off instead of a wedge. Oh, and the one you DIDNT want to hear.....take a shovel! Ive found that digging is usually faster than sharpening in soft ground. Note, a metal handled flat spade can double as a prybar ;) Or use a backup saw to finish those cuts and keep the main chuggin along!
  3. Thistle

    Minister of Fire

    Dec 16, 2010
    Central IA
    I normally cut as far down as possible,do a little digging then finish the cut by rolling if needed.Sometimes truck & heavy log chains are needed to pull the stump free.I'd rather do 10 minutes of digging then spend 30 minutes sharpening a good chain.I keep 3-4 old chains hanging on wall of shed for this scenario.
    MasterMech and zap like this.
  4. velvetfoot

    Minister of Fire

    Dec 5, 2005
    Sand Lake, NY
    I used a sawzall on some small tree roots, but it doesn't sound like it's work here. It was amazing how quickly the dirt dulled the blades.
  5. MasterMech


    Have one, and I did that on another tree. Unfortunately with logs this size, breaking them off is more work than sharpening or digging. :p

    Lol, I don't think my MS230 or 031 (16") are gonna reach in and finish off what my 034 (runs a 20" most of the time) started. ;)
    But yeah, I'd keep a 'beater' around if I had one!

    I have a good pair of loppers (Stihl PL40) that make short work of anything under 2" diameter.

    I guess I should mention that I've been working in folk's front yards. Dunno how they'd respond to me digging. (some would be fine with it I'm sure.) I should run out there and grab a pic or two. Only about 500' up the road. ;lol

    Keep 'em coming guys, I'm listening!
  6. golfandwoodnut

    Minister of Fire

    Sep 25, 2009
    Pittsburgh PA
    sounds like your best bet is to bring some extra chains and resharpen later, or else leave that piece behind. They got to get rid of the root ball right?
  7. MasterMech


    These are always the last cuts of the day, and I always have sharp chains with me. ;) Yeah, they gotta get rid of the root ball, I don't have the necessary toys for that one. I hate leaving 20-30" Red Oak behind tho. Even if it is only 1 or 2 rounds, that an easy 4-5 days worth of wood for me.
  8. JustWood

    Minister of Fire

    Aug 14, 2007
    Arrow Bridge,NY
    Leave 10 feet or better of the trunk on the stump then cut it at the stump. The weight of the trunk usually will split off that last bit holding under ground.
    midwestcoast and MasterMech like this.
  9. bogydave

    Minister of Fire

    Dec 4, 2009
    So Cent ALASKA
    Right at the root, if it's not sunk, can you cut the trunk off there & then roll the log?
    Shouldn't hurt to dig there, near the root ball if needed.
    Only cut in one place then cant hook & roll the log back & forth, throw in limbs or some 2X4s until it's not touching the ground.

    Each one is probably different,
    a long 12' 4X4 as a lever?
    Cut out a big notch (or 1/2 a round ) so you can reach & see to just cut thru the bottom?
  10. lukem

    Minister of Fire

    Jan 12, 2010
    Cut the clean part of the wood right next to the root ball then throw on a junk chain and get it dirty. Roll the log and buck the rest.
  11. Tramontana

    Burning Hunk

    Oct 23, 2012
    Wheat Ridge, Colorado
    I'm curious if a carbide toothed chain might work in this scenario?

    Haven't ever cut with one, and don't know what the results might be?
  12. MasterMech


    Would love to try that, but 3/8" .050 72 loops of carbide chain are awful pricey. Not like the little Duro loops Stihl is pushing for 3/8 Picco saws. Going rate is about $2.79 per DL, or about $200 bucks a loop for me. !!!:eek: I'd have to price Stihl's Rapid Duro chain next trip to my dealer.

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