Granberg G106 vs Harbor Freight Sharpener: Startling Difference

Gents,

Yesterday I took down two enormous, annoying spruce trees. The chain on my MS441 had been carefully sharpened with the Granberg, and it's performance was mediocre. A buddy of mine bought the Harbor Freight chain several months back and sharpened a spare chain I had lying around....that one got put on the saw, and it was taking chips the size of corn flakes. Your results may vary...

I think whether you sharpen my hand with no tools, the Granberg, PFerd, etc. . . . or whether you use mechanical aids such as grinders, Dremel with attached stone, etc. . . . the thing is . . . there is no best way . . . there is only the best way that works for you since many folks can get a wicked edge free styling by hand . . . others, like me cannot sharpen by hand to save their soul . . . others love mechanical grinders, others hate 'em. Again . . . go with what works for you.

I do a fair job with a file, but I did some cutting last week for the first time since I got a Timberline. Holy cow.

Check the raker height before you assume one is better than the other. A C

The term rakers gets thrown about all the time and I am likely just as guilty, but the proper name for the tab ahead of the cutting tooth is depth gauge and should be apx.025 lower than the cutter height,.035 is about max. some depends on your saw. Failure to check and adjust the depth gauge height results in a sharp chain tossing dust instead if chips. $3 for a gauge to check, cheap insurance.

Sharpening is all about the operator/technique more so than the tool used.

See above.