Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Folkers, Nov 9, 2012.
I know they are running a liner all the way up with a cap and also insulating the bottom.
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Just reading the first sentence seems to qualify things by stipulating: "If using a short run of venting, whether flex or rigid,through the damper and into the chimney flue" . I again take that to mean short run of venting into the chimney flue. The implication being "short run"....i.e., NOT to the top of the chimney, which would imply a longer run of venting. Again I could be "all wet" with my read on it.
This issue must also come up with other inserts, not just Harman....am I correct??
How bout other insert owners?
I have my insert installed with a piece of flex going up about 4 feet past the damper. I have it sealed off with insulation and it works very well. I dont get any smoke in my house even if the power goes out. I didnt have any money when I installed my insert so I did it the cheap way. It has been that way for 6 years with out any issues. And yes I was an NFI certified installer when I installed it. However when I get around to it I will install a stainless steel liner all the way to the top of the chimney. And yes I will wrap it with insulation from the top to the bottom. You wrap the entire pipe so that you dont get condensation on the inside of that chimney. If you dont it will smell and possibly mold and just be a mess, it also helps with having enough draft and prevents it from having to much draft.
My exhaust vent goes to the top of the chimney where there is a block plate, but with a screen around the base. My OAK goes halfway up the chimney, far enough away from the exhaust to meet Harman's guidance. Mine wasn't a great install; I had some problems with the installer. Halfway through the season I installed Roxul (sp?) insulation at the damper and then crafted a thin piece of metal that I placed between the insulation and the stove. It was easy to do. I got that idea from this forum to prevent heat from escaping up the fireplace. Seems like it's working. Good luck.
Thank you all who shared their input. When I have time, I'm going to get some insulation and insulate at the damper and wrap the flex vent that's exposed in the chimney firebox. I'll probably fashion a block off plate as well. I've found some past posts that described ways to do this. I appreciate those that shared their knowledge.
On another note, last night I pulled my insert out far enough so I could get another look at the installer's work. I was shocked to find that the installer did not install any anchors (lag or otherwise) to secure the stove frame in the fireplace. Harman's manual is clear about addressing this. I'm sad to think that I paid decent money for the stove and an installer to get this done right, and it's pretty clear this was not done right. The reseller is listed as a Platinum Reseller on Harman's website?? The reseller does not have his own installers, but he has one the he put me in touch with. I would think that the reseller would believe that it's in his best interests to ensure that the installers that he uses/recommends are trained and competent.
I feel kind of torn, on the one hand I want to just anchor the frame myself so I know it's done right, and on the other hand I want to contact the reseller and "discuss" the situation. One of the previous posters quoted Mass General Law regarding the installation of such appliances...."they had to be installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions". Not really sure what I'm going to do.....
I'd like to call Harman directly, but I doubt they'd want to here from me, and I could not find the Phone number on their website.
My guy screwed up too and I called him back. He sent another installer out to fix the situation. I'd take that route -- that is, inform the reseller that guys are performing work under his name that isn't good, and maintain a relationship with the reseller while your stove is under warranty, even if you can do the work yourself. good luck.
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