harman invincible inset circuit board replacement

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by rickwai, Jan 30, 2012.

  1. rickwai

    rickwai
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    Has anybody replaced a circuit board on one of these? I have to change one on Friday and I have never seen one of these stoves before. Is there much to it?
     
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  2. ironpony

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    Have never done one but
    from looking at it
    it all seems to plug/unplug
    looks straight foward to me
     
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  3. smwilliamson

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    First, make sure you have the correct board. You will use the p61 (manual ignition) control board with all of the DIP switches to OFF. You will also remove the auger micro switch as it will not be needed. Use the same wiring harness. Room sensor plugs are on the back of the board as well as ESP. There is a plug for the room sensor attached to the surround for insert models. Those leads got to the board and your sensor plugs into it.
     
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  4. rickwai

    rickwai
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    Thanks for all the info. Does the surround have to come off to get to board? do you have to slide the stove out to get to the back side of the board. Sorry for all the questions but I have to go out and replace a board on one of these and i have never even seen one. I have changed plenty of Harman boards so I m not concerned w/ the wiring just how to physically how to get to the board and remove.
     
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  5. Harman Lover 007

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    If it is a free standing stove all you have to do is take the right side panel off. Loosen two screws on the bottom of the panel and gently slide it towards the rear. The screws do not have to come all the way out, the shield is slotted. It may have a snap thingy (like a boat canvas snap) near the lower front also. Once that side panel is off you'll figure it out.

    Oops, just saw that it was an insert. I think the panel is the same but you may need to slide it out a bit.
     
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  6. Bkins

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    You don't say what year this stove is and I don't know if it makes any difference or not.

    On mine: There are 4 screws on the surround that hold he control board assembly onto the surround. Just take the 4 screws out and twist the assembly slightly, dsconnect any wires and you'll be hold the board. My stove is a mid 90's version nd I don't have to move the stove or do anything with the surround to get the board out.

    Make sure the stove is unplugged before doing any of this.
     
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  7. Lousyweather

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    actually, you'll likely need to replace the shafts and knobs as well......these days the potentiometers on the new-ish boards are on the opposite side of the circuitboards, so, you need longer shafts, and the requisite knobs to go with them....make sure they are included in the kits.....they usually are.....also, does your invincible still use the microswitch (on the feeder)? If so, with the new boards, there is NO place to plug this in, so, you wont be plugging the microswitch in anymore.......
     
  8. rickwai

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    Thanks everybody for the helpful info. I will b going out on it on friday
     
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  9. rickwai

    rickwai
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    Update on invincible. Circuit board change was no problem. Ended up needing a esp probe alsoo which involve pulling insert out. It is a similar set up to the accentra insert. I put my rail under it and tried to get it out. It was very tight. I asked homeowner if stove has been out before? he said no, so I thought it was just stuck from age. I continued to pull and wrestle it and finally got it out. Changed esp then tried to get the unit back in.......... I could not get it back in the shell by myself, the ridges on each side of the hopper were hitting the mounting shell, and when thew stove was put in the shell was not fastened to nothing!! Ended up having the guy I work for come down and bring drilll and tapcons to remount the w/ both of us we were able to shove it back in the hole. I have pulled probably 100 accentras and have never had these kind of problems. What a improvement the accentra insert is over the invincible as far as being user/serviceman friendly!!!!!!!!
     
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  10. Bkins

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    Mine is tight but not that tight. Mine had a web type gasket on the bottom rails which helped with sliding it in/out. The directions for mounting the shell didn't have you doing any drilling. There were 2 scew posts in the top front,, by the surround, that got run up to the metal fireplace lentil and 2 more bolts in the rear that were used for leveling. This arrangement would not of worked if the stove was that tight. Did you service the stove while it was out?
     
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  11. rickwai

    rickwai
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    yes i did service while it was out. The threaded rods were not installed either. We will put those in next time we are there for service.
     
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  12. SMachia

    SMachia
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    I'm in the process of replacing the board on our 1998 P61 and am having trouble getting the knobs off of the old board without snapping them off. Should they just pull off, or is there some technique that I'm not aware of? Thanks in advance for any responses.
     

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