harmin p68 vs. englander 10cpm

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ad356

Member
Dec 25, 2009
156
north java, ny
i was wondering which stove is a better bang for the buck. i currently have a us stove 5510, while it isnt terrible i want something better for the house. i would probably move the 5510 to the garage and buy the harmin or the englader for the house. the 5510 doesnt provide quite enough heat when it is extremely cold out. when it gets to the sub zero temps i need a few more btu's. what is your opinion on these two stoves?
 
I have had a P68 for 4 years, I am very satisfied, it has done a great job. I have a dealer very close so that makes it nice. It has never let me down. It has had a couple of little things done under warranty, but nothing major. I know many guys have Englanders and they are equally satisfied.

Tom C.
 
I need more info. Like what the sqft your heating and does the current stove keep the place warm enough for you?

Both units have good reviews. But the P68 has more horses. The 10 CPM will be less costly if it has enough power to keep up with the work load.
 
ad356 said:
i was wondering which stove is a better bang for the buck. i currently have a us stove 5510, while it isnt terrible i want something better for the house. i would probably move the 5510 to the garage and buy the harmin or the englader for the house. the 5510 doesnt provide quite enough heat when it is extremely cold out. when it gets to the sub zero temps i need a few more btu's. what is your opinion on these two stoves?

It's spelled HARMAN
 
the current stove keeps up fine... until the temps start getting really cold like below 10 degrees, then i will be lucky to keep the house at 60. the temperatures in the north-east do get that cold on occasion. the house is a 1,500 square foot house. the insulation WAS almost non-existant until this last few weeks. the remaining old style windows were replaced recently and the outside walls are being gutted and insulation is being installed. the house is old plank construction so the walls only have a couple inches to install insulation. it doesnt have very thick walls so im insulating but it will never be as good as a modern modern home. the insulation that i have installed has to be better than nothing because the house is already warmer and not all of the walls are insulated yet either. my biggest complaint with my current stove is that is loud and it has a tendency to produce clinkers. no matter what i do clinkers have always been an issue. i have been able to improve its performance but the most i can get out of it is 3 days and i have to shut it down. air holes in burnpot will be clogged and burnpot will fill up with crap. today i enlarged some of the holes in the pot hopping that it will help. the clinkers would not be an issue in the garage at all since i will not be running the stove more than 1 day at a time. the stove gets run 24/7 in the house and is the primary source of heat in my home, with an old piece of junk gas forced air furnace which as of this year hasnt been used at all except for a test run of 5 minutes. i know that the englander is a multi-fuel unit. are any of the fuels used cheaper than pellets. is there any advantage to using shelled corn or cherry pits. i know the englander has a 2,200 sq ft rating but how many btu's is it capable of? my current stove is 48,000 btu.

i want a stove in my garage anyways and the wife wants a stove that has better looks then my current unit. the 5510 is more of an industrial looking stove.

the 5510 is an ok stove, it has never left us without heat but it wasnt a very well thought out stove. we have had allot of small issues with it over the 3 years i have owned it that just drive me nuts. the clinkers, poor ignitor is useless, and other small issues. sometimes i wonder if the stove was tested at all, the design just isnt very refined.


another question i have about the enlander and the harman, do they both completely shut themselves down with a thermostat and kick back on when heat is required? the 5510 is hooked up to a thermostat but only kicks itself down to the lowest heat setting and doesnt shut itself down and re-ignite when heat is called for. in the fall when you just want to break the chill, it overheats the house and wastes pellets. i want a stove with a shutdown and restart feature. pellets arent cheap
 
ad356 said:
i know the englander has a 2,200 sq ft rating but how many btu's is it capable of? my current stove is 48,000 btu.......another question i have about the enlander and the harman, do they both completely shut themselves down with a thermostat and kick back on when heat is required?

I think the 10cpm is rated at 50K btu's, but I'm not 100% positive....maybe Mike H. will pop in and clear that up, or you could give them a call tomorrow.

As for the thermostat use, the 10-cpm can be set to shut off completely, or can be put into hi-lo mode. Both work on the stat.

Not 100% sure about the Harman, but I think it does both too.
 
I have a p68 and like it, it will shut all the way down to no flame and then turn it self back on. The stove is a beast, I don't think I have ever come close to running it at 3/4 never mind full power. Like you I also have a old (1981) forced air ng furnace I never use. I do wonder sometimes if I should have spent the the $ the p68 and pipe and install cost, or maybe have purchased a new furnace first seeing that ng is about the same price as pellets, however I really like the idea of heating using bio-mass and ng would never turn into a nice hobby the way pellets have.
 
your better off not supporting the evil NG company. look up hydrualic frackuring, they have contaminated allot of people's water. there are people that can light their water on fire. i think the pellets produce better warmth, i like heat from solid fuels much better. natural gas heat is not a very warm heat.
 
My vote is for the P68. You may be able to only heat with pellets! 10 CPM is a heck of a little stove, But might be a bit to small where the p68 will have some leg room for the cold weather!

Keep us posted! ;-)
 
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