Hearth Install question

[eyefish2]

I am working through the details of building a hearth for a corner install on a jotul 500. I understand the hearth needs to extend 18" from the front of the stove. Question 1..........is the front of the stove the door face?? or the ash lip that extends out a couple inches?

Question 2 ...... I am planning on putting down one layer of Durorock (or some form a cement board that our area Home Depot would have) on top of the existing 3/4" plywood floor. Would you suggest another layer of 3/4" ply wood for support?? I would think it is not needed. FYI....only need "ember protection" with the Jotul 500. My concern is flex and then cracking the tile at the legs of the stove.

Thanks for you comments.

 

[mhrischuk]

Usually the manual is very concise about where that 18" measurement is taken from. It usually is from the front of the stove body, not the lip.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Why limit yourself? Nothing says you can't go a few inches further out and then for sure you are covered.

Why would you need plywood on top of plywood for support? I'd just put down the cement board and ceramic tile or slate.

Good luck eyefish2.

 

[eyefish2]

Usually the manual is very concise about where that 18" measurement is taken from. It usually is from the front of the stove body, not the lip.

I read the manual again. It is written "A minimum of 18" in front of the stove and the left side load door (measured from the legs)". I take it that the measurement from the legs is for the front of the stove too. Thanks.

 

[eyefish2]

Why limit yourself? Nothing says you can't go a few inches further out and then for sure you are covered.

Why would you need plywood on top of plywood for support? I'd just put down the cement board and ceramic tile or slate.

Good luck eyefish2.

The only reason I would put down another 3/4" of plywood is for additional support which would help minimize flexing of the plywood and cement board. This would reduce the chance of the tile cracking. Each leg of the stove will be supporting 125 pounds. Not sure how much surface area on the leg bottoms but it will be high pounds per square inch. I would rather not put the extra layer of plywood down, but think it would help.

Any other comments or experience with this. This 3/4" plywood would go on top of 3/4" plywood which is on top of the floor trusses.

Thanks.

 

[eyefish2]

Why limit yourself? Nothing says you can't go a few inches further out and then for sure you are covered.

Why would you need plywood on top of plywood for support? I'd just put down the cement board and ceramic tile or slate.

Good luck eyefish2.

The only reason I would put down another 3/4" of plywood is for additional support which would help minimize flexing of the plywood and cement board. This would reduce the chance of the tile cracking. Each leg of the stove will be supporting 125 pounds. Not sure how much surface area on the leg bottoms but it will be high pounds per square inch. I would rather not put the extra layer of plywood down, but think it would help.

Any other comments or experience with this. This 3/4" plywood would go on top of 3/4" plywood which is on top of the floor trusses.

Thanks.

 

[mhrischuk]

Usually the manual is very concise about where that 18" measurement is taken from. It usually is from the front of the stove body, not the lip.

I read the manual again. It is written "A minimum of 18" in front of the stove and the left side load door (measured from the legs)". I take it that the measurement from the legs is for the front of the stove too. Thanks.

Yes I agree.

 

[firefighterjake]

I am working through the details of building a hearth for a corner install on a jotul 500. I understand the hearth needs to extend 18" from the front of the stove. Question 1..........is the front of the stove the door face?? or the ash lip that extends out a couple inches?

Question 2 ...... I am planning on putting down one layer of Durorock (or some form a cement board that our area Home Depot would have) on top of the existing 3/4" plywood floor. Would you suggest another layer of 3/4" ply wood for support?? I would think it is not needed. FYI....only need "ember protection" with the Jotul 500. My concern is flex and then cracking the tile at the legs of the stove.

Thanks for you comments.

Random thoughts . . .

Measure from the stove door . . . but as Dennis said, don't be afraid to go out a few more inches . . . it will give you just a little more margin of safety, you truly will not miss another 2-5 inches of floor space in most cases and if for some reason you didn't figure out the placement of your stove just right it gives you a few inches to fudge things with and still stay safe. Heck, sometimes I wish I had built a larger hearth . . . I mean it's big enough for my cats to lay down in front of the stove, but darn it sometimes I wish I could lay down in front of the stove on the hearth too.

I went with two layers of 3/4 inch plywood . . . just for the reason you cited . . . to reduce flex and the possibility of my slate cracking. The extra height and cost in my opinion was of a minimal concern vs. the idea of me having to redo the tiling job down the road. Three years in and I have no cracks.

 

[mhrischuk]

Cement board and Hardybacker are specifically designed to add rigidity. Todays plywood is full of voids.

 

[begreen]

You can still buy good plywood from a decent lumber store. If you want extra rigidity, use 1 1/8" plywood which makes for a very stable base. We used this as the subfloor in our bathroom 8 yrs ago and the tile and grout are still perfect.

 

[eyefish2]

I appreciate the comments. I will go with the extra 3/4" plywood whether it is needed or not. 1.Very little extra cost and 2. not too much extra work and 3. I can probably do it without screwing it up. The three stars are aligned so it must be done.

Thanks again

 

[firefighterjake]

I appreciate the comments. I will go with the extra 3/4" plywood whether it is needed or not. 1.Very little extra cost and 2. not too much extra work and 3. I can probably do it without screwing it up. The three stars are aligned so it must be done.

Thanks again

There's no probably . . . trust me . . . I'm a Mechanical/Handyman Idiot and my hearth came out looking great for a fraction of the cost to buy it . . . trust me on this . . . if you take your time, ask questions when need be and just remember to wipe up the grout and cement before it dries you'll be golden.

 

[eyefish2]

Thanks Jake.....I was going to purchase a hearth pad but the money for our home improvement project is starting to dwindle. Plus folks here said building a hearth is relatively easy and inexpensive. I am actually looking forward to working on this. I just need to get going with the hearth, and get some painting and staining done.

 

[firefighterjake]

Thanks Jake.....I was going to purchase a hearth pad but the money for our home improvement project is starting to dwindle. Plus folks here said building a hearth is relatively easy and inexpensive. I am actually looking forward to working on this. I just need to get going with the hearth, and get some painting and staining done.

Easy to build, inexpensive . . . and you forgot the last part . . . once you have this built there comes a real sense of pride every time you pass by it or kneel beside it to load up the woodstove . . . trust me on this one . . . you truly will have a sense of pride when it is built.