Separate names with a comma.
Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by kps513, Dec 5, 2011.
what does the flame look on high? is the stove cycling or just on a constant run on med?
Helpful Sponsor Ads!
If I know that going straight out and up would guarantee the fix I will do it. I do have some siding around yet to patch that area.
I will take a pic of the flame on high this afternoon. Running on Med with stat at 72 pretty much keeps the stove running all the time. Last weekend with it being a little warmer it did turn off but wouldn't restart since there was to much ash in the pot.
While you are playing around take a good look at the screen if any on the termination cap.
you may want to try running on high the stove will get more air and tend to perform better on the high setting your flame should be 6-8 inches out of the pot clinkers form when the ash cools and hardens
I will say it could be the pellets, the venting, or an air leak.
Pellets with to much green raw material will make volcano rock like clinkers. Try another brand, 3 bags at least.
Check the door gaskets. The handle can be adjusted by removing/adding a washer.
fix that venting, get the 90's out of there by moving the hole or raising the stove. Do not mix pipe, use Pellet Vent or Pellet Vent Pro. No mix and match. Is there an Appliance adapter on the stove?
Do not mess with the computer. Leave it alone.
Just checking in to see if you CAB 50 problems are resolved. I have one that I have been cleaning out twice a day during the coldest part of the winter so far.
Curious to know what pellets you were burning and if you have switched brands. I have been burning ProPellets and they seem to be doing OK. When I was testing different brands, I tried NRG pellets, and they were the worst. Almost all dust. I scooped half out and had to do a full clean because of all the sawdust.
Our CAB 50 definitely has some small air leaks around the window also. I know it's just two, but I wonder how many of the other new out of box CAB 50's are having the same problem.
Is there a sealant patch kit for the rope, or does the rope just need to be completely replaced?
On another note, I am curious to hear responses on why the stove is priced so differently in different regions. I know in the mid-Michigan area, the stove sells for $1100 full price but I have seen $1600-$1700 quoted on this forum and in other circular ads.
As a lurker, I really appreciate this forum. Great ideas and helpful tips and tricks.
What I have uncovered is that the heavier ash of the red oak used in First Choice pellets was to heavy and the ash stayed in the burn pot causing the problems. When I switched to Lumber Jack Premium the large massive ash chunks went away. I did install the OAK and that didn't make any difference. I too have tried about 6 different brands of pellets finding some to be so dusty that I didn't want to dump the whole bag at once.
I have taken some alum foil and folded small strips and laid on the gasket when closing the door to create a tighter seal but didn't notice the glass staying any cleaner. I should try that again and see how it effects the flame. Not sure how to test the window seal itself.
In this area I have not seen the stove priced that low. Seems to range from 1500 to 1700 within about a 4 hour radius.
Hey guys, came upon this post as i have a heatilator ps50. I dont mean to hijack but had a question as well. Dexter you say the cab has no damper but im not sure on the ps.. Removing the ash box there is a hole about 2x2 which has a metal plate beside it that i can swing to make the hole smaller. Thinking this isa damper but changing how big the hole is i can see no difference.
http://mainestoves.com/pdfs/manuals/heatilator/PS50.PDF On page 7 it shows the combustion air damper. I see pretty much no effect when adjusting this...
Also one other question. I removed my burnpot to clean it as it was getting some really hard build up on it that i couldnt get off. So i removed it to "chisel" the junk off and that was from barefoots. The burnpot has a white fabric like gasket and when removing it the gasket held on the the stove and the pot. So i adjusted the gasket while putting the burn pot back in. Will having a a bad gasket kill or impact the fire in the burnpot. If so i think thats what mine is doing as it seems i cant get a good falme unless i have the feed pretty much opened all the way.
One other question regarding the heatilators if Eric can chime in. Where is the combustion blower. My method of cleaning is after arond five bags i shut it down or let it run out, vacuum all the ash from inside the stove, dump the ash box, remove any clinkers in the fire pot and the try to get any hard build up of the inside of the fire pot. Also i take a hand broom and clean all the ash that has accumulated on the inside walls and remove the back plates to get any ash behind as well. I have removed the blower circular fans (that blows out the hot air) and cleaned them of dust and debris and then behind the back plates there is a hole that leads to the exhaust. I set the vacuum to blow and blow out and dust and ash that has accumulated in the exhasut trail as well as removed the term. cap to clean any settled dust. The one thing i havent cleaned as i dont know where it is is the combustion blower. I can see the exhaust blower (havent removed that) and the hot air blower but i am not sure if i have or where the fan is that pulls air into the stove for combustion....
The exhaust blower is the combustion blower. Its the blower directly connected to your venting. It blows the exhaust out, but "sucks" air into the stove (via burn pot).
Your Burn pot gasket needs replaced if its torn or damaged. That will create an air leak and lead to burn issues.
As to the damper. If its not external (and mentioned in manual), then I dont know if its meant to be played with? If its inside the ash compartment, its not meant to be adjusted while running....... So if its really a damper or not???? I will let Eric answer that.
Can you take a pic of this area?
Edit: looked at manual... It is a damper. But prob best adjusted when not running? IDK. Kinda wish my Quad had something like that. Even if its that vague. Its something.
they do state the damper in the manual on page 7 http://mainestoves.com/pdfs/manuals/heatilator/PS50.PDF But it seems useless as there is no gasket between the ash drawer and stove. So air could get sucked in from the ash drawer area as well essentially adding more even if the damper is closed
I will post a pic. Also like i stated i just blow out the fly ash and such from the exhaust trail but havent removed the blower. Will the efficiency be reduced as time goes by and im not able to physically get in there and clean it?
"damper" is inside below ash drawer
Id put a cleanout tee in place of the first 90* coming off your exhaust. I clean my pot out twice a day when burning crappy pellets. Try some Somersets youll like them better and so will your stove. That brings my pot cleaning down to once a day in average winter temps but in cold snaps when I have to burn 3+ bags a day its gotta be cleaned twice even with the Somersets. Maybe a little more foil tape will help.....lol jk. BTW going straight up will help that stove ...alot. I had mine direct vent out the side and it wouldnt run on low at all, I went straight up and It will run on low like it was meant to. These stoves are antiquated technology (your stoves innards are the same as mine) so they need a little more coaxing to get them running effeciently then the AE counter part.
The exhaust has a T right at the stove, and goes vertical right from there. Goes vertical for about 4 ft then 2 feet outside and then the term. I will have to do that clean more often and clean the T out more often. Ive been cleaning about 1/2 days and the T about once a week. Is there any way to get to the exhasut blower t oclean all the ash and junk off it?
The venting only needs cleaned every ton or so (give or take / horizontal sections more often).
As for the combustion blower. A $10 gasket will let you take it off and clean the fins with a small wire brush. Some do this every ton. Some do it at the end of every season. I do it twice a season normally. At the mid-point of the year (around now) and at the Spring cleaning (end of season).
My stove (Classic Bay) can go a week normally (running 24/7 non stop). Burning a good pellet, I can go about a week or so before cleaning/scraping the pot. That's running non stop though.
Some brands leave more ash than others. But if there gets to be a cake of ash inside the pot, I would start looking for leaks (door gasket, burn pot gasket, etc). I had a bad door gasket at the end of last season. Had to shut the stove down every evening to remove the thick cake from the backside of the pot. Went around the back half of the pot, from the top of the slope, to the top of the pot.. Looked hard like a clinker. But was very soft and broke easily.
New gasket and now the stove runs like new again. Im on almost 3 weeks without opening the door. (But I also dont use it a whole lot, maybe 2-3 bags a week, at best).
Cleaning schedules are different for everyone. Some do it more often than others. Do what works for you. Just make sure you remove all motors at least once a year, and the vent every ton.
[quote author="jeff5347" date="1327617416"]The exhaust has a T right at the stove, and goes vertical right from there. Goes vertical for about 4 ft then 2 feet outside and then the term. I will have to do that clean more often and clean the T out more often. Ive been cleaning about 1/2 days and the T about once a week. Is there any way to get to the exhasut blower t oclean all the ash and junk off it?[/quote
The coment was to the original post. There is no clean out tee on his.
Great State of Tennessee here. In October, paid 1964 for stove, install, hearth pad and ton of greenways.
Ill look into a gasket for the combustion fan.I checked for one on the burn pot and 39 dollars! Idid do the dollar bill test on the door and that is tight. I can pull the bill but only after putting force into it. Will cleaning the combustion blower make a difference. Also i noticed with barefoots lot of clinkers and buildup in the pot and not a great flame unless i open the feed just about all the way. Now i have been burning a few bags of Turmans and so much better. I found the pellets the stove likes.
I know this
I realize your post is a few years old but. I bought a cab 50 last year and have lots of problems with mine as well. The manufacturer will not honor the warranty. The dealer just tells me to buy his pellets. did you ever get any resolution?
We have had our Cab50 for about 2-3 years now. It started out OK, but seemed to develop problems after the first 3 months or so. Tech support was not much help, and at one point they had us silicone the shipping bolt holes shut (located in the areas where the ash pan is). Of course I could not understand why that would help because there is no gasket on the ash pan drawer and all kinds of air is able to enter this area anyway. The whole system seems a bit odd. At several points I would have to remove a side panel to keep the stove running. This made no sense either, as the back has all kinds of air holes. It appears this system is so delicately balanced that just a small change in air flow will just kill it. Really poor design. I have a 16 year old Reliant stove in our sunroom that just runs and runs and runs with no issues and minimal cleaning. On the cab50 I noticed black streaks along the glass edges and it seemed like air was getting sucked in (leaking). The door gasket was all great, but I tried running a bead of sealant along the edge of the glass on the outside and now this thing runs MUCH better. So it looks like the glass seal was bad from day 1. Now we have no black streaks, just ash that coats the inside of the glass that wipes off with a soft cloth or brush. I just can't understand why they designed the ash drawer area and burn put like they did. The small damper door under the ash pan has no effect and I thought you open it if the outside air kit is installed, but the manual is a bit vague and seems to conflict with when tech support told us (to keep it closed). The stove appears very well built but there are serious design flaws for sure.