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stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
oregonrider said:
yep jerrys is a dealer, i'd check them , but if depot says "1,070 ish" jerrys will not be any cheaper unless its a "floor model " (display)which is ok, if you go that way and anything is missing ,let me know and i'll UPS it to you, if less than 800 jump on it , if not , its hard to beat overstock. as a note , do not worry about what that does to your warranty(buying online) , "i am your warranty" i take very good care of my "hearth.com " customers , if i didnt they wouldnt let me play in their sandbox
Hi Mike *" pipe enters box then is approx. 11" outer pipe up thru roof 8" pippe is of course continuos inside
stoveguy2esw
Minister of Fire
just saw the pictures , wowo that schrader looks like it was a "stud" in its day looks like you would need a 6 to 8 increaser above the stove to connect to the 8 inch flue. should be able to do that between the stove and the ceiling , i would probably do it just below the ceiling as it would look better. the stove can be run in an 8 inch round without any problem especially since its an interior chimney
Hi Mike, as far as running a borebrush down it for cleaning would I be better off running a a 6" pipe all the way up? Or just disconnect at the 6 to 8 to clean? roben.
begreen, I don't want to buy too small of a stove, that's the mistake I made with the pellet stove. I have to run it on high at least 3 months of the year and that is really hard on it, it even says that in the manual of course i didn't see that until after I bought it. I'm up in the cascades here and see night time temp in the single digits when it's clear. roben.
OK, that would explain some of the difference. At 265', I'm close to sea level. Still, investing in better insulation like blown in for the walls and more in the attic, will knock you down a stove size and will pay back as long as you are in the house. It's not that expensive for blown in. I suspect some caulking would help as well. Otherwise you have to buy a larger stove and use more fuel.
Have you checked on any rebate programs in OR? I think they used to offer a trade-in rebate to get old, pre-EPA stoves off the market. Ask before you buy.
Have you checked on any rebate programs in OR? I think they used to offer a trade-in rebate to get old, pre-EPA stoves off the market. Ask before you buy.
Gooserider
Mod Emeritus
I would agree with BG that improving your weathersealing and insulation should have a big payback, but you would probably want to keep the same size stove more for the longer burn times (given your 12 hour absences) than for the pure heat output (the big stove would be overkill for that...)
In terms of cleaning, yes going to 6" all the way would probably be easiest to clean, but doing a 6-8 transition and having to separate the pipes wouldn't be totally horrible.
Your hearth looks pretty good in the pictures, it should meet current codes for almost anything in terms of area, however I'd be a little bit worried about what is under the bricks - Depending on the R-value requirements of the stove, just a layer of bricks over a wooden subfloor might not be enough, however if there is a layer or two of cement board then you should be golden for most stoves.
You did upload the pictures correctly, the only trick you might have missed is that after attaching a picture, you can hit the "preview post" button which will allow you to attach an additional photo to the same post, as long as the total of all pictures doesn't go over the size limit - max is 4 pictures, but most of the time I find more than around two or three is the size limit.
Gooserider
In terms of cleaning, yes going to 6" all the way would probably be easiest to clean, but doing a 6-8 transition and having to separate the pipes wouldn't be totally horrible.
Your hearth looks pretty good in the pictures, it should meet current codes for almost anything in terms of area, however I'd be a little bit worried about what is under the bricks - Depending on the R-value requirements of the stove, just a layer of bricks over a wooden subfloor might not be enough, however if there is a layer or two of cement board then you should be golden for most stoves.
You did upload the pictures correctly, the only trick you might have missed is that after attaching a picture, you can hit the "preview post" button which will allow you to attach an additional photo to the same post, as long as the total of all pictures doesn't go over the size limit - max is 4 pictures, but most of the time I find more than around two or three is the size limit.
Gooserider
Hi begreen and gooserider, I'd really hate to bore holes in my shiplap interior walls or the clapboard exterior. The hearth seems to set on linoleum which covers the fir flooring. How do I check the R value of a new stove?
No problem, I have a clapboard (bevel cedar siding) and had to patch the exterior holes. Once they are plugged and sealed (I used bondo) and sanded, they paint over and disappear.
For hearth requirements, download the manual for the stove of your choice from their website and go over the installation details. Some stoves have pretty light needs, basically a non-combustible barrier and others have serious insulation requirements. Depends on the stove. The Quad is low, the Englander requires a bit more (R 1.5), but not high. For the Englander go to: http://www.englanderstoves.com/manuals/30-NC.pdf
For hearth requirements, download the manual for the stove of your choice from their website and go over the installation details. Some stoves have pretty light needs, basically a non-combustible barrier and others have serious insulation requirements. Depends on the stove. The Quad is low, the Englander requires a bit more (R 1.5), but not high. For the Englander go to: http://www.englanderstoves.com/manuals/30-NC.pdf
webbie
Seasoned Moderator
oregonrider said:
The owners manuals are usually available online - some stoves just need a very minimum of floor protection - even 1/4" ceramic tile will do - these are usually stoves with higher legs or pedastals and ash pans. But stoves that are close to the floor require more R value.
If you don't want to rip up your hearth, you could build a small elevated platform that would raise the stove up a couple inches and then tile or brick around it - for instance, putting 4 or 5 1/2" layers of cement board a bit bigger than the new stove base, or something like that.
As to the stove size suggestions, since a lot of softwood is burned in the west, the boxes do have to be sized a bit larger to have the same burn time - not as many pounds of wood fit in.
I think Avalon has a $999 wood stove also - with a very large glass front. Might be the same as that Lopi.
Rode the harley into eugene today to see any places that were open to look at stoves. struck out on englander, home depot is online only and jerry's only stocks them in winter. Did see the quadra-fire 3100 and 4300. nice looking stoves but at $1300 to$1500 really more than I want to spend. Saw country stoves at another place but seem about the same price as the quadras and not as nice looking. After I get off work tomorrow I'll go by a couple more places that where closed today. roben.
webmaster, I looked at some of these online manuals, thanks for the heads up. That lead me to another question. They say a class A stove pipe is required. how do I determine if what I have is class A or not? roben.
Gooserider
Mod Emeritus
Class "A" is what is needed for a prefab chimney from at least the first wall or ceiling penetration to the top of the stack - You can bring the Class "A" all the way to the stove, but it isn't really necessary. From the stove to where you connect to the Class "A" can be done with your choice of a couple different (less expensive) sorts of "connector pipe" If your existing stove was installed per code, it probably already is Class A - check to see if there are any labels on it or stamped info on the pipe that would help identify it - ideally brand and model numbers... If it is not Class "A" then you would need to replace the existing install or another alternative MIGHT be to drop an insulated 6" liner down your existing 8" pipe, however I'm not sure how that would work for termination top and bottom.
Essentially since we can't see exactly just what you have, what you may need is an inspection by a good sweep who can tell you exactly what you already have to start with, what kind of shape it's in, and any possible issues - we can then give you a better idea about what to do concerning them.
Since you are in Oregon, are you anywheres close to The Chimney Sweep in Bellingham, WA? Tom Oyen, the owner of that shop is one of our members and is an excellent resource for information.
Gooserider
Essentially since we can't see exactly just what you have, what you may need is an inspection by a good sweep who can tell you exactly what you already have to start with, what kind of shape it's in, and any possible issues - we can then give you a better idea about what to do concerning them.
Since you are in Oregon, are you anywheres close to The Chimney Sweep in Bellingham, WA? Tom Oyen, the owner of that shop is one of our members and is an excellent resource for information.
Gooserider
Holy cows, that stove looks like it was built by Caterpillar. The doors and hinges alone must weigh 250 pounds. :bug:
Eric Johnson
Mod Emeritus
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