Help!! How do I get that last piece of stovepipe in?

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3650

Minister of Fire
May 8, 2011
924
midwest
I've had quite a few stoves but believe it or not they have all been rear vent. I just bought a new one and it's top vent. I can't clear the adapter collar on the stove and get the right length stove pipe. What's the trick? House is cooling down quick. My only heat source. Thanks
 
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Telescoping pipe.....sorry, brain fart. Can't remember the name of it. It's adjustable.
 
Think I'm just going to have to push all the joints together as far as they will go then cut a short piece and cheat all the joints until I can get a screw in.
 
In pinch, cut it to length minus the height of one brick. Then line up the stove with the pipe and lift it up and slide the bricks under the legs. If it was beater stove cut it to length and cut the legs the height of brick and lift the stove up and insert bricks. Obviously, a lot easier if the legs will unbolt ;)
 
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Well I'm working alone so I don't think the lifting the stove will work. I'm not finding telescoping pipe. I found this draw band. I wonder if it would work?

 
Is this single-wall? If so, it looks like Menards has a slip connector
 
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Thanks. I'm at Lowe's and found one.
 
Sounds like you've solved the problem. For future reference, it isn't all that hard to lift a stove. Some people can at least lift one side high enough to slide a wood block, brick, or dolly under it, and then repeat on the other side. If that's too much, a 4x4 (or two 4x4s side-by-side with some space between them) can be used as a lever. Small hydraulic jacks work, as do automotive-style rolling, ratcheting floor jacks.
 
Well got it going. Burning paint off as I type this. Think I'm getting a little buzzed. Hope it's not too toxic. The windows and doors are open. This thing is scorching hot. It kind of got away from me. Couldn't get a small fire to burn worth a crap so I packed it full. You would have thought I dumped kerosene on it. These EPA stoves are different for sure.
 
Well got it going. Burning paint off as I type this. Think I'm getting a little buzzed. Hope it's not too toxic. The windows and doors are open. This thing is scorching hot. It kind of got away from me. Couldn't get a small fire to burn worth a crap so I packed it full. You would have thought I dumped kerosene on it. These EPA stoves are different for sure.
this happened to us last year when we installed the high efficiency stove

burning the paint in was entirely unpleasant...the manufacturer said 4-8 hrs to cure the coating...it took at least 2 weeks...and blacked the window as well...making reloads very difficult

I also really struggled to keep a small fire going...nevertheless the firebox on my Panadero began deforming from the very first ignition

We also were working to an existing exterior chimney position. We had to install new gallows brackets and were able to swing the freestanding flue pipe just enough to fit a double wall 90° which IIRC are butt joints with clip ring. I have the dbl wall insulated passing through a stone wall and it was cemented in after we tested single and changed our mind and went with dbl wall stainless which I find to be a far better solution. Single wall vitreous black was far too much of nail-biter for me...I just did not feel comfortable with that single wall. Just far too hot and leaky in my opinion.
 
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What is the new stove's make and model?
 
It's a cheap one. Master Forge from Lowe's. Glass looks cracked in the pic but it's not. I think the model is WS110.

IMG_20231223_231230295.jpg
 
Looks like a good secondary burn going there. You'll find that as soon as the fire is burning well, turning down the air as soon as possible without killing the fire is the best way to avoid a too hot stove. Reload with thick, dry splits packed tightly.
 
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The secondaries on this are amazing. I have no experience with this type but can only compare it to a Woodstock fire view cat stove I had years ago. The secondaries on this stove burn nearly as long as that cat stove. That surprised me. I thought it would only last about 20 minutes or so but it went for a couple of hours like that. Maybe longer I had to take off.

Reloads on a good hot bed of coals are fairly simple. However, it's a tedious job trying to reload first thing in the morning with fewer coals. Have to load it and keep the door open for about 20 minutes until it's really burning good then close the door all the way. Sometimes it will continue to burn sometimes it goes out and the door has to be opened again. Still learning on this part.

I don't have seasoned wood so that's probably the biggest issue. I have to get a good char over about 80% of the splits to get it to take off. There's just no seasoned wood around this area and I switched from coal to wood this year due to coal prices going so high. I had no way to prepare for the immediate transition. I was burning this green wood in my coal stove and had creasote issues at first but started using some creasote destroyer ( which I always thought was snake oil) and it actually works. My only concern is will it damage the double wall chimney or shorten its life. Coal is hard on double wall too so I'm sure it has taken its toll.

I'm still waiting for winter to get here to see if this will heat my house. I'm not sure it will. It takes a lot of continuous heat to keep it comfortable as I have no insulation in the walls and it's a split faced block house. The stove itself is not as big as I thought it would be for the claimed 110,000 BTU. Id call it medium sized at best. I'll be surprised if it will do the job, but it may just surprise me.
 
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