help me pick a budget insert: first woodstove.

[dantree]

I am looking to keep this cheap. I am looking at the drolet escape 1800i and the Century cw2900 ( http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200577754_200577754 ). I am not sure if these are big enough.

I live in southeast Michigan and have a 1930s 2,000 square foot tudor. It's about 1,000 downstairs and 1,000 up. The first floor plan is very open. The stairs are on the opposite end of the house from the fireplace. but the bedrooms are directly above the stove. there is extremely minimal insulation in the house.

I am hoping to get started in heating supplementally with wood. I will probably just burn nights and weekends. But when I do i'd like it to heat the whole house. Right now we keep the house pretty cold: around 64. So we aren't expecting it to be super hot.

Thank you so much!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Welcome to the forum!

Do you have the internal measurements of your fireplace?

Have you already put aside wood to burn?

Matt

 

[dantree]

Welcome to the forum!

Do you have the internal measurements of your fireplace?

Have you already put aside wood to burn?

Matt

Welcome to the forum!

Do you have the internal measurements of your fireplace?

Have you already put aside wood to burn?

Matt

I can measure tonight. It is very tall and wide but not too deep. About 20 inches but it tapers at the back. I have some standing dead elm and maple.

 

[rwhite]

I think you'll have a tough time heating the whole house with any stove. I have a 3 story that is 1000 sqft on 2 levels and 400 on the 3rd floor. My stove sits on the 2nd floor. It will provide heat upstairs but we still have to run a small space heater at night. The biggest problem is there is only 1000sqft on the floor that the stove heats. You would be smoking hot on that floor in order to fully heat the upper floor. I run a Osburn 1600 which has a 1.8cuft firebox and it does a good job. After having mine in a few years I know that the size I have would be the minimun I would ever consider. I wouldn't rule out a used stive either. I got mine used for $250 and I still had another $1000 wrapped up in it by the time I bought liner, insulation and built a hearth extension. The 6-7 hour run times listed are the maximun if good seasoned hardwood is used. 4-5 is more normal for me.

 

[Wood Duck]

I think you should look at an insert with a fairly large firebox - something around 2.5 cubic feet or larger. You have a lot of space to heat and the larger insert will give longer burns. I'd cut firewood before installing the insert. The stove can be ready in a weekend, the wood cannot.

 

[Grisu]

For a heating a 2000 sqft, badly insulated home in your area you will need a large insert with a firebox > 3 cu. ft. Have you thought about putting a freestanding stove in front of the fireplace? That is usually the cheaper option. E. g. an Englander NC30 can be had at Homedepot for $900 and has a large firebox. Do not forget to put a full liner in; your draft will be much better and it will be much easier to clean. If you do the install yourself you could probably stay under $2000.
I would also take down those trees ASAP and split them. Check the moisture content with a moisture meter to see whether they are really dry; that is not a given with standing dead trees. A modern EPA stove really needs dry wood with a moisture content less than 20% to function properly. Lastly, beef up the insulation. That is an investment that will keep giving you back in years to come. In addition, you will probably need to make the room with the stove really hot to get the rest of the house warmed up sufficiently if it is as badly insulated as you say.

 

[begreen]

+1 I like that idea too. Take a picture and post it if you can. That will help us see if there are any serious issues.

In the meantime, start cutting and splitting that wood. Standing dead can still be damp in heart wood.

 

[dantree]

The hearth is a Tudor arch. From the front it is 35.5 inches wide and 29 inches tall at the sides. The peak in the middle is 32 inches high. Looking from a birds eye view the front is 35.5 inches wide. It is 21 inches deep. But it tapers to the back so the back is 26 inches wide. The hearth extends 15.5 inches so I will be extending that.

 

[dantree]

 

[dafattkidd]

That fireplace is beautiful. I don't know what your budget is but I would go with a freestander in that space. I love my insert and I'm pretty sure it would heat your space pretty well but aesthetically I think a freestanding stove would be better. If you're looking for an insert on a budget I found the best prices on www.dynamitebuys.com. The Osburn 2400i was the best value for a large insert when I was looking two years ago. Either way good luck with it.

 

[dantree]

That fireplace is beautiful. I don't know what your budget is but I would go with a freestander in that space. I love my insert and I'm pretty sure it would heat your space pretty well but aesthetically I think a freestanding stove would be better. If you're looking for an insert on a budget I found the best prices on www.dynamitebuys.com. The Osburn 2400i was the best value for a large insert when I was looking two years ago. Either way good luck with it.

I'm thinking insert without the surround. My insurance company doesn't need to inspect or have a surcharge for an insert. Plus I don't know if I could fit a stove. If I went with a stove I'd do an Englander 30.

 

[begreen]

You might look at Buck stoves. Many of them can be installed without legs, as inserts with or without legs.

 

[dantree]

You might look at Buck stoves. Many of them can be installed without legs, as inserts with or without legs.

ck

aren't buck stoves going to be a lot more expensive ? Of the inexpensive stoves which has the biggest firebox for $1,100 or less?

Thanks,

 

[begreen]

The 30NC is probably the best bet in that territory. Double check measurements to be sure it will fit.

Also, what is the mantel assembly made out of? Is it entirely non-combustible or is there some wood in it?

 

[dantree]

The mantel is poured mortar I believe. I don't know if I have enough length front to back for the nc30. Can it be installed as an insert? My insurance doesn't go up for an insert.

Thanks,

 

[begreen]

Cool, it looked cast, but I had to ask.

How do you mean the front to back issue? What's important is how the flue outlet aligns with the liner. A slight angle might be able to be offset in the flex. If the hearth needs extending, that's possible.

 

[dantree]

i think it would need to be extended A LOT. The fireplace is 21 inches deep plus a 15 1/2 inch hearth = 36 1/2. isn't the englander about 30 inches deep? Can I install it without legs so that my insurance won't be raised?

 

[stoveguy2esw]

i think it would need to be extended A LOT. The fireplace is 21 inches deep plus a 15 1/2 inch hearth = 36 1/2. isn't the englander about 30 inches deep? Can I install it without legs so that my insurance won't be raised?

the stove will have to have either the pedistal or legs attached as the intake opening of the stove is under the firebox so the unit will not sit flat. there are shorter legs which may make it easier to fit if its close to too tall but its gotta have somthing under the firebox.

 

[begreen]

31" deep, but part of that is the ash lip. The hearth needs to extend 16" in front of the glass, so maybe an 8" extension. That isn't a lot.

The 30NC can't be installed as an insert. How much would it increase the house insurance? If the goal is an insert then you would be better off looking at Buck stoves or actual inserts. Seem there are conflicting objectives that will need to compromise. Either get a smaller heater that is affordable or get stove that will do the job.

FWIW, the smaller stoves you asked about will heat the house for a lot of the heating season. It just may need supplementing when the temps drop below say 20, along with more frequent feeding. How much will depend on the house and how well it's sealed and insulated. Regardless, it will still help save on the overall bill if your wood is dry and not too expensive. And the area around the stove will always be cozy.

 

[dantree]

31" deep, but part of that is the ash lip. The hearth needs to extend 16" in front of the glass, so maybe an 8" extension. That isn't a lot.

The 30NC can't be installed as an insert. How much would it increase the house insurance? If the goal is an insert then you would be better off looking at Buck stoves or actual inserts. Seem there are conflicting objectives that will need to compromise. Either get a smaller heater that is affordable or get stove that will do the job.

FWIW, the smaller stoves you asked about will heat the house for a lot of the heating season. It just may need supplementing when the temps drop below say 20, along with more frequent feeding. How much will depend on the house and how well it's sealed and insulated. Regardless, it will still help save on the overall bill if your wood is dry and not too expensive. And the area around the stove will always be cozy.

It would be about $70/year. Where I live in southeast michigan we are in zone 6b so its not as cold as you'd think. I think for now I will get an insert that is cheaper. What is the best bang for the buck? Where can I get a buck stove inexpensively or used? looks like a 74 would be the ticket?

Thanks.

 

[begreen]

Relative to where we live, that is darn cold and I have a 3 cu ft stove in the same sized house.

A Buck 74 will be about twice the cost of the Drolet or Century. If still interested, start with a Buck dealer and craigslist.

I don't know enough about the interior design of the firebox on either stove. Personally I would go with with the deeper firebox of the two and that looks like the Century CB00006 has it by a couple inches.

Edit: Got the manual for the stove. Yes, the Century has the larger firebox 2.1 cu ft vs 1.8 for the Drolet.