Help with my Madison wood stove please.

[LoriT]

Hello fellow burners.
About two months ago I upgraded my all nighter wood burner to the Madison. Of course I wanted to try it out so I would know what I was doing come winter. No good. It was too warm out. Finally we just started getting some 40 degree nights. I'm having a terrible time being able to shut the door without it going out for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours after light up. My husband installed the fresh air intake and 3 more ft of chimney. It seems the stove has to be super hot with coals for me to close the door successfully. Once I do. It keeps my home warm for about 8 hours or more. It's just getting the darn thing to not go out after I close the door. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance. Lori.

 

[begreen]

First thing that comes to mind is that the wood is not fully seasoned, but tell us more about the flue system. Describe it from stove to chimney cap including any turns in the piping.

 

[LoriT]

First thing that comes to mind is that the wood is not fully seasoned, but tell us more about the flue system. Describe it from stove to chimney cap including any turns in the piping.

Thanks so much for the reply. I have a mobile home so there's no way I'm going to get 15' of stovepipe/chimney. I have 4' of single wall stove pipe fro stove to ceiling. My ceiling is 7' high and the top of the new wood stove is about 3' off of the floor. I have 5' of chimney out of the roof. Plus another foot or two through the ceiling. We made certain to have our system straight up and down. No elbows no turns.

 

[edyit]

you have a short flue so your draft in warmer weather is going to be weaker than what is recommended. that being said the draft will improve as weather gets colder. is there any way you can add a section or two of pipe to it? i know some people don't like braces and tall chimneys but they make a real difference. last question, is your chimney 6" or 8" or something else since you didn't say.

 

[30WCF]

Wood is likely not seasoned and dry. I have lots of blowdowns I cut from last winter's storms that have been split and stacked since spring and still read 22-28 percent moisture. They won't burn great until next winter.

 

[LoriT]

you have a short flue so your draft in warmer weather is going to be weaker than what is recommended. that being said the draft will improve as weather gets colder. is there any way you can add a section or two of pipe to it? i know some people don't like braces and tall chimneys but they make a real difference. last question, is your chimney 6" or 8" or something else since you didn't say.

Thanks so much for your advice. Yep it's a short flue. I'm going to add another couple of feet this weekend. Hoping that will make some difference. Ours is 6". These new stoves are great. The cons though are their a pain in the rush when it comes to drafts. My all nighter was easy to get going and shut the door quickly. But the wood burned way to fast.

 

[LoriT]

Wood is likely not seasoned and dry. I have lots of blowdowns I cut from last winter's storms that have been split and stacked since spring and still read 22-28 percent moisture. They won't burn great until next winter.

I buy my wood by the chord. It's suppose to be seasoned. But again, who knows how long. It doesn't sizzle. And with the door open the flames are great. Just might night be quite hot enough to get the draw on the chimney.

 

[spirilis]

I buy my wood by the chord. It's suppose to be seasoned. But again, who knows how long. It doesn't sizzle. And with the door open the flames are great. Just might night be quite hot enough to get the draw on the chimney.

I can confirm the Madison is a bit finicky with inadequate draft and especially with wet wood. It really doesn't shine until you have a certain minimum load inside (one that can get the secondary combustion zone cookin'). Likewise, under-seasoned wood can prevent that critical secondary combustion inferno from occurring.

Top-down fires help, and putting some fast-burning stuff on top might get you "over the hump" quicker. Move the fuel to the back of the firebox so the hot flames sweep further across the baffle (above the burn tubes). A good offense (super aggressive fire starting) is the best defense (against poor burning).

I have some poplar that helps immensely, but another that may help is pine ... any fast burning softwoods sitting on top will help.

 

[LoriT]

I can confirm the Madison is a bit finicky with inadequate draft and especially with wet wood. It really doesn't shine until you have a certain minimum load inside (one that can get the secondary combustion zone cookin'). Likewise, under-seasoned wood can prevent that critical secondary combustion inferno from occurring.

Top-down fires help, and putting some fast-burning stuff on top might get you "over the hump" quicker. Move the fuel to the back of the firebox so the hot flames sweep further across the baffle (above the burn tubes). A good offense (super aggressive fire starting) is the best defense (against poor burning).

I have some poplar that helps immensely, but another that may help is pine ... any fast burning softwoods sitting on top will help.

I will absolutely take your advice. What is a top down fire ? Please.

 

[spirilis]

I will absolutely take your advice. What is a top down fire ? Please.

Top-down fire basically means your bulk fuel sits on bottom, kindling on top, then tinder mixed with smaller kindling on the very top... you light the tinder up top and it burns "downward". Works great with newer stoves for the exact reason I mentioned (gets the secondary combustion zone up top hot first).

This illustrates:

Also here's me demonstrating a "short kindling fire" in the Madison, piling it as high as I could arrange- https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/esw-madison-pics.146903/page-2#post-2120860

 

[LoriT]

Top-down fire basically means your bulk fuel sits on bottom, kindling on top, then tinder mixed with smaller kindling on the very top... you light the tinder up top and it burns "downward". Works great with newer stoves for the exact reason I mentioned (gets the secondary combustion zone up top hot first).

This illustrates:

Also here's me demonstrating a "short kindling fire" in the Madison, piling it as high as I could arrange- https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/esw-madison-pics.146903/page-2#post-2120860

Thank you so much I shall conquer this battle of woman defeats wood stove lolol. Thanks so much.

 

[begreen]

Many modern stoves need stronger draft to pull air thru the pre-heat manifold and into the secondary combustion tubes or thru the catalytic convertor. Draft will get better as it gets colder outside. Adding height to the chimney will also help. Be sure to have a brace on the chimney at 5' above the roof.

Here's a classic video on top down burning:

 

[LoriT]

Many modern stoves need stronger draft to pull air thru the pre-heat manifold and into the secondary combustion tubes or thru the catalytic convertor. Draft will get better as it gets colder outside. Adding height to the chimney will also help. Be sure to have a brace on the chimney at 5' above the roof.

Here's a classic video on top down burning:

I would like to thank you all for your extremely helpful information. After adding a little more chimney and learning how to place my wood correctly ( as it's different from my old all nighter). I have cut my start time including closing the door successfully, down to 15 minutes. Bring on the snow ! lol. Thanks so much.