Homemade Vers. Brandname Boiler [wood Gaser's]

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ozzie88

Member
May 13, 2011
199
maine
Been reading these post last few days and cant understand why you guys who bought your boilers use so much wood and have the trouble with running them? Maybe I just got real lucky when I built my boiler but i can say it seems to work good. Since last Sept. I burnt about one cord wood, my house is only 1000 Sq. feet and I heat basement too so around 2000 total,keep it 72-74 and heat my DHW too. There is 2 of us here.I load stove takes about 10 minutes to get second chamber fired [started with 140* water] I run one starter load mostly small 1/2 load then after 20 minutes I add bigger wood and thats it. It is based on the Garn up-draft and swerel in fire box, When I open door to add second load I get no smoke and it really just keeps going loud, you can see there no fire in bottom chamber just hot coals but when you look in second chamber it is Rouring loud and hot flames,it really neat how it keeps going on just invisable gases. then runs 1.7 hour shut off at 190*. Have 300 gal. water storage which last me all night. I burned it last night at 8.00PM and 7.00AM still water at 150,[Below Zero last night,in Maine] I burn different types of wood ,ash,maple mostly.
Guess I am somewhat braging but if there anyone who might have question for me I answer. I have some post from last spring when i got this thing built and going but never really tested it till last month[cold!]
 
Hello, I put a few different post with photos last spring early summer, they will come up when you put ozzie88 in, might not be pretty but been doing ok with it,
 
I don't think there are many gasser users here that burn "so much wood" compared to any other form of wood heat. And I suspect the "trouble" you reference is mostly us just playing with our systems to get that last few percent of efficiency out.

I doubt very much there are any home built boilers out there that could outperform any of the big name gassers in a side by side comparrison. If you want a true comparison you'd need to start weighing wood and reporting system efficiency and output. Burn times and cord consumption are not measures of performance unless you know exactly your heat loads and boiler output.
 
I've burnt about 3 cord but I probably have over 3 times the load. With all the time I spent just Installing my system I couldn't imagine building the boiler to. I'm glad your happy with your boiler and like stee said some real data would be interesting.
Only trouble I've had with mine has been operator error.
 
It looks like you built a fine boiler & you sure do get a feeling of accomplishment doing this. It was cheaper for me to just spend the $3100 for my Atmos though, with guaranteed results. I'm glad your project turned out that well, Randy
 
All about heat load.. Remember it is a well known fact how many btu's in a pound of wood. I don't know of a way to get more out of a lb of wood than it holds. No matter if it is a purchased boiler or home made.

gg
 
I'm thinking if 300 gallons of hot water will do you all night, you have a lot less heat loss and load than others here - which is a good thing, I wish mine was that low. Sounds like a decent setup you have there.
 
Thanks for comments, Give me a couple days I will weigh the wood, check dampness, time burn times,water temp,etc. and do some data up and get better idea of how its doing. I did check effincery while back came out to around 84% If I remember right. Anyways will post soon,
 
stee6043 said:
I don't think there are many gasser users here that burn "so much wood" compared to any other form of wood heat. And I suspect the "trouble" you reference is mostly us just playing with our systems to get that last few percent of efficiency out.

I doubt very much there are any home built boilers out there that could outperform any of the big name gassers in a side by side comparrison. If you want a true comparison you'd need to start weighing wood and reporting system efficiency and output. Burn times and cord consumption are not measures of performance unless you know exactly your heat loads and boiler output.


The efficiency of boiler is easy to see, the flue gas temperature tells a big part of the picture. Higher temperature shows two things. Poor heat exchange - less heat being transferred to the water and more BTUs going up the stack and higher stack temperature can also indicate combustion still not complete.
Lower stack temperature - better heat exchange properties and also can indicate more complete combustion.
 
ozzie88 said:
Hello, I put a few different post with photos last spring early summer, they will come up when you put ozzie88 in, might not be pretty but been doing ok with it,

Have been unable to find your post and pictures, but will keep looking. I do take my hat off to someone like you who has gone out on their own and done something different, where no one else has gone, and have had success.
My boiler is a production unit but when I put it together with heat storage 30 years ago, in this area the technology was very much unheard of and the only way to learn was usually by making mistakes.
I think you have done something very exceptional!!
 
My first thoughts are what "complaining" are you talking about? I don't think you find to many complaints/issues from the Garn users. They are so much simplier than the euro style down gassers, in my opinion. They don't idle down, there is no storage system, there is no smoke in the room, etc. So comparing the Garn style with the other's isn't quite "fair", from a user/system symplicity point of view. Efficiency is a whole nother question.

If I could build my own Garn, I'd be a happy camper, and a great welder! And no doubt out another 6 months of weekends...
 
My guess is that most people with the size of a heating load would be more likely to buy a small wood stove than a boiler.
 
bpirger said:
If I could build my own Garn, I'd be a happy camper, and a great welder! And no doubt out another 6 months of weekends...

I'm dropping off the thread here. From 30 years of operating a gasifcation boiler, your " Garn" is complete. Good size fire box, more than adequate heat storage, a simple arrangement of burn chamber fire brick and a secondary burn nozzle that would be not too complicated to build and replace if needed. The refractory is heated and cooled at a steady rate, which extends its life. Until I joined Hearth.com several months ago, I knew little about these newer products. It's all very interesting!
 
This is my third heating season. I have a GARN WHS 2000. Because of the oil prices, this unit will pay itself off at the end of this season. I do mean paid off in full. The unit and all plumbing needed to heat the living areas. I heat 3000 square feet with this unit. This year I started heating in mid October and I have used 4 cords of wood. This has been a great investment. I installed it myself with help from my brother and children. I cut and split the wood that I burn and continually plant new seedlings for future harvesting.
 
GeoMass said:
This is my third heating season. I have a GARN WHS 2000. Because of the oil prices, this unit will pay itself off at the end of this season. I do mean paid off in full. The unit and all plumbing needed to heat the living areas. I heat 3000 square feet with this unit. This year I started heating in mid October and I have used 4 cords of wood. This has been a great investment. I installed it myself with help from my brother and children. I cut and split the wood that I burn and continually plant new seedlings for future harvesting.
What, first post & no pictures? lol. Glad its working well for you, Randy
 
No complaining here...and no problems with operations..easy as pie.

Heating 3,000 sq ft(lots of glass & one 26' wide glass wall(22ft high peak), all radiant in gypkreet and infloor panels.
Since Oct 1st, I have used 2 cords of wood and that includes DHW make for about 75% of the time.

I load 5/8 of the firebox(about 4.6cubic ft) once a day (when outside is 30-40), above 40 once every 2-3 days(then the back up kicks on for DHW(when my tanks are below 150f)) and when in the teens to mid 20s, once every 16 hours or so with same load(4.6cu.ft).

When there is no residual embers left(once a day fire), I re-arrange the coals around the nozzle, lay 3-4 smaller splits over it, throw a couple of pieces of cardboard, open the lightning door(great feature) light 2 pieces of paper, wait 2-5 minutes until I see the Flue gas hit 180C, then I close it and walk away. Under 10 minutes overall.

When I have embers, I load the logs, close the doors and walk away, but from having watched it, it reaches 180 within 4-8 minutes, depending on volume of embers.

In my estimates, using last year's LP prices my system will pay itself off within 4.5 years. I harvest, move, split and stack(no splitter other than my wedged maul) my own wood supply.

The only problems I have faced, where due to improper stacking(loose and too much nozzle left exposed) within the fire box, which resulted in slower starts due to higher O2 levels. I am still within the learning curve, but that is part of the fun, for me anyway.

The cleaning is ridiculously easy(I did it twice in 3 months and had very little ash(about 3/4 cu. ft total from both times). The HX tubes I did not have to clean, but did anyway so I can practice and see what was the deal in there and nothing but fly ash in there, 4-5 passes with the brush down to metal. Not even 15 minutes total(putting the coils back in took the longest).

Additionally I do not have idling issues, as in 210hours of service I have only logged 2 hours of slumber and that was due to my miscalculation.
The variable speed fan and adjustable air modulators are very well designed in controlling burn parameters, which makes my life easier.
You get what you pay for in my estimate and after much research, I decided to go for it. Having a Garn outside was not feasible for a few reasons and this seemed to be the best indoor unit, even though the extra money was borrowed, as was most of the install, but it made sense financially and otherwise.

I do not know about other down draft gassers form Europe or from wherever else, but this one is very easy to operate and puts out a considerable amount of BTUs in my tanks with a reduced amount of fuel. Obviously not defying laws of physics and material properties, but clearly very efficiently "squeezing" all the heat out of the fuel.

I salute the people who build their own gassers or any boiler and have great success with them, but I had to make a decision which took fire safety into account, as well as smoke, ash, smell issues within the basement and admittedly I am not sufficiently skilled to build a machine encompassing these parameters. Congrats to those who can and you have my admiration, but either way we are all doing something much bigger than ourselves, by eliminating the OIL/LP truck and thieves from our lives.

Best holiday wishes and a great new year to All.

Scott
 
Happy New Year!

Moved the photo to the proper thread!!
 
Moved to proper thread!
 
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