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husky 372xp

Post in 'The Gear' started by loneeagle15, Jul 1, 2007.

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  1. loneeagle15

    loneeagle15 New Member

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    I purchased a husky 372xp brand new my question is how many pulls does it take to start it? The first time I tried to start it I flooded it ok I'm new at this I might have screwed up let it sit for couple of hours tried again it started tried yesterday would not start tried today again would not start it just floods out I am assumeing or should say I hope as the last 2 times I never did get it too start used fresh gas oil (50:1 per the manual) and checked the plug gap. So is there a trick or am I just unable to fiqure it out?
    Thanks JD :-S

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  2. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Minister of Fire

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    When brand new my 359 was a real pain to start the first 5-10 times. I don't know if it was just set wrong, or if that's typical of new engines. Now it's 3 pulls with choke out, and then 2 with it in.
  3. TMonter

    TMonter Minister of Fire

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    Have you checked to see if it's getting spark?
  4. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    To start most chain saws, and all Husqvarnas, you need to 1.) pull out the choke; 2.) engage the throttle lock; 3.) Pull until it fires. 4.) push in the choke and disengage the throttle lock; 5.) pull once or twice until it starts.

    If you don't do these things in this order, the saw will flood.

    The way to start a flooded saw is to hold the throttle on full (with the choke disengaged) and pull the cord until it starts.

    If all of the above fails, take it back to where you bought it and get it checked out.
  5. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Minister of Fire

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    I do 1,3, the first part of 4, and 5. I don't touch the throttle when starting my saw, at least not intentionally. Is the throttle lock that "extra" button? My toe probably hits that, but I never thought it had anything to do with starting the saw.
  6. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    On newer saws, like my Husky 346xp, the throttle lock and choke buttons are separate, but they operate in concert. When you pull out the choke, in other words, it engages the throttle lock. On older saws, you have to engage it independently. What it does is lock the throttle on halfway for starting.
  7. DiscoInferno

    DiscoInferno Minister of Fire

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    When my saw starts it's at a pretty high rpm, and I have to quickly take off the brake and then gun it once to release. So I guess that's the throttle lock. I didn't realize it was connected to any buttons besides the choke though.
  8. Eric Johnson

    Eric Johnson Mod Emeritus

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    I was wrong. On the 346, the choke knob (blue) automatically engages the throttle lock. So you wouldn't know it was there if you didn't know it was there.
  9. computeruser

    computeruser Feeling the Heat

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    A properly tuned saw will require no more than three pulls on choke to get it to fire over once, and then no more than two with the choke off to get it started and running. If it requires more than this then you are either flooding the piss out of it or you need to retune it properly.
  10. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    If one floods out a saw or for that matter a smaall engine, I pull the spark plug wipe it off before I replace it pull the cord a few times this will blow out the carberator and
    clear the flooded conditions. If you are new to using a chainsaw that's a lot of saw (372xp) I been cutting wood for a long time and neve needed that much saw.
    I do a lot of cutting with a Sears Craftsman 2,3 cu 14" bar. What I lik is the light weight easy to manouver and good contril of a short bar. It came witha 16" bar but works better with
    the 14"

    I have a Stihl 041 farm boss with a 24" bar but it too has the 16" on it today I own a 357xxp with the 18" bar and it hard for me to imagine needing any more.

    especially cutting up firewood.
  11. carpniels

    carpniels Minister of Fire

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    Hi guys,

    Elk has a good point. Why does a newbie at firewood cutting have or even need a 372XP? I actually sold my 359 and went to a 346xp because it was too large and powerful.

    Even my brother in law (professional tree cutter) only brings out a saw that size once in a blue moon when a really large diameter trunk must be cut. Most of the time, a small to mid saw will do.

    I would strongly suggest getting a much smaller saw and learn to use that and use it well. Less power is less problems, less weight is less fatigue is less accidents. Sell it and get a smaller cheaper saw and use money left to get some good PPE.

    Carpniels (really happy I learned with a 34 cc 16" craftsman, then a larger saw and now a smaller again).
  12. TMonter

    TMonter Minister of Fire

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    Out west here I regularly run into 24" plus timber when cutting firewood. I guess it all depends on location.
  13. hornett22

    hornett22 New Member

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    if it's too much saw i'll buy it.PM me. who cares if he needs it.it's the best saw ever made.put a 20 inch bar on it and never look back.

    it is true,it depends where he is.hell,i have to get the 395 out from time to time.yesterday i used the 55 rancher all day on mulberry.sometimes i have red oak that is 40 or 50 inches in diameter.nothing worse than finding out your saw is too small.a 372 is a workhorse.you can always use it.
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