Hello, I am completely new to wood stoves and also to forums so please forgive me for my ignorance. I got a quote and was told my best option would be a regency 2400 flat top stove and complete install with 10 feet of triple wall pipe and 6 feet of double wall is around $5500 dollars. I have a 1600 square foot cathedral home and my main concern is being able to heat it above 65 degrees incase of power outtage. Again, ive no experience with wood stoves and no idea if regency is what i need. I want a quality stove thag will last a long time and keep my house warm. Any and all help is appreciated.
I need help with everything.
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I looked at that stove when I was shopping 2 yrs ago and it is good but not the greatest. I would suggest that you check out the reviews listed here on Hearth.com and do some more shopping so that you are sure. The more you shop around, the more confused you will be BUT, eventually it will all become clear. 
A good wood stove should last many decades and you want to make the right decision.
You should let us know answers to these questions so that others can help out:
How well insulated is your home?
Are you burning full time or only when you need the heat?
Do you have your own source of free wood?
A good wood stove should last many decades and you want to make the right decision.You should let us know answers to these questions so that others can help out:
How well insulated is your home?
Are you burning full time or only when you need the heat?
Do you have your own source of free wood?
I looked at that stove when I was shopping 2 yrs ago and it is good but not the greatest. I would suggest that you check out the reviews listed here on Hearth.com and do some more shopping so that you are sure. The more you shop around, the more confused you will be BUT, eventually it will all become clear.
You should let us know answers to these questions so that others can help out:
How well insulated is your home?
Are you burning full time or only when you need the heat?
Do you have your own source of free wood?
I looked at that stove when I was shopping 2 yrs ago and it is good but not the greatest. I would suggest that you check out the reviews listed here on Hearth.com and do some more shopping so that you are sure. The more you shop around, the more confused you will be BUT, eventually it will all become clear.
You should let us know answers to these questions so that others can help out:
How well insulated is your home?
Are you burning full time or only when you need the heat?
Do you have your own source of free wood?
My house is very well insulated. I do have my own source of wood and I will be using it mostly to help with furnace but the main concern will be for when the electricity goes out.
edyit
Minister of Fire
if you don't have dry wood now it doesn't matter what stove you get you'll be struggling with it to produce heat. check into some bio bricks or similar products so you're not frustrated in the dark
I have dry wood. I had an oak fall last winter and just cut it up and stored it in the garage. I just need to know what better options I have in the 2k prove range.
English BoB
Minister of Fire
You dont need anything to power the stove it will work fine without power. And if you just cut and split that oak it is not dry yet. The 2400 is a good stove but with 1600 sq ft and cathedral ceilings it may be small. It is the cathedral ceiling that is the issue. $5500 sounds a little high but i dont know the specifics it may be in line. But you dont want triple wall you want insulated double wall.
Thank you, what stove would you suggest. There is a dealer close to me that sells jotul. I don't care to spend a little more as long as it's quality.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
2K budget?
The install is actually pretty easy if your handy, you can save $$ by doing it yourself, there are many kits available with supervent and duravent being the 2 big players in the homeowner install chimney world, all in all just the chimney itself if installed by you and friends would cost in the ball park of a thousand dollars using the lengths up provided.
If you do decide to go the route of installing on your own you will have to remember these things, clearance's to combustibles for everything, floor protection or hearth rated for your type of stove, some require ember protection only, others require a certain thickness of noncombustible material.
Straight up install (preferred method) - Obviously your stove, appliance adapter to make the connection from double wall black pipe to stove collar (some brands don't require this) length of double wall black pipe (un-insulated) (don't forget your telescoping double wall piece) Cathedral ceiling support box kit (this will give you everything you need to make the pass through from inside to outside with weather proofing) lengths of class a double wall insulated pipe, chimney support bracket kit and finally chimney cap
Through the wall - stove, appliance adapter, double wall black pipe (instead of (1) 90deg bend use (2) 45 deg pipes (better draft) through the wall kit, class a double wall pipe insulated, wall support brackets, chimney cap.
No matter which way you choose you will have to stick with one brand of chimney pipe and parts for it all to work correctly.
Good luck, do some exploring on home depot, lowes, menards ect. for pricing.
The install is actually pretty easy if your handy, you can save $$ by doing it yourself, there are many kits available with supervent and duravent being the 2 big players in the homeowner install chimney world, all in all just the chimney itself if installed by you and friends would cost in the ball park of a thousand dollars using the lengths up provided.
If you do decide to go the route of installing on your own you will have to remember these things, clearance's to combustibles for everything, floor protection or hearth rated for your type of stove, some require ember protection only, others require a certain thickness of noncombustible material.
Straight up install (preferred method) - Obviously your stove, appliance adapter to make the connection from double wall black pipe to stove collar (some brands don't require this) length of double wall black pipe (un-insulated) (don't forget your telescoping double wall piece) Cathedral ceiling support box kit (this will give you everything you need to make the pass through from inside to outside with weather proofing) lengths of class a double wall insulated pipe, chimney support bracket kit and finally chimney cap
Through the wall - stove, appliance adapter, double wall black pipe (instead of (1) 90deg bend use (2) 45 deg pipes (better draft) through the wall kit, class a double wall pipe insulated, wall support brackets, chimney cap.
No matter which way you choose you will have to stick with one brand of chimney pipe and parts for it all to work correctly.
Good luck, do some exploring on home depot, lowes, menards ect. for pricing.
I am not a stove guru like some guys here I am better at chimney issues but i do know regency products because i sell them but there will be others that can help you with other stove info. but in regency i would go up to the 3100 or the 3500 for your space. Well first how high is your ceiling?
And the 2k budget was just for the stove itself, no pipe or anything like that. Just the stove. I can go a little higher if it will get me a way better stove
He said the install would be $1014. My insurance agent said I had to have triple wall pipe through the ceilings in order not to raise insurance.
Need 'um floor plan. Rough drawn is fine.
How many cords (4x4x8) did you get from that oak? You might want to consider adding to your stash if it's minimal.
An Englander Madison or 30 might fit the bill here, and keep more bills in your bank account
Welcome to the forums !
How many cords (4x4x8) did you get from that oak? You might want to consider adding to your stash if it's minimal.
An Englander Madison or 30 might fit the bill here, and keep more bills in your bank account
Welcome to the forums !
More of a side note in this case; but oak takes 2-3 years to dry once cut split and stacked. So if you just css it in january, it is nowhere near dry enough.
Dont get us wrong, it will burn, just not well. And nowhere near as well as it could. You will get less heat and more creosote issues from it.
Dont get us wrong, it will burn, just not well. And nowhere near as well as it could. You will get less heat and more creosote issues from it.
ADK_XJ
Feeling the Heat
I have the Regency i2400 and had it installed last Fall- it wasn't cheap but was certainly not $5,000. Was closer to $4,000 after delivery, insulated liner and so on. That's in NY $ so that's someing to consider...
I have a very similarly sized house as you (~1550 sq ft) but without the cathedral ceilings. If I could do it all over, I would have probably gone with a freestanding unit but as far as inserts go I think the Regency is a good option.
Last Winter, I was relatively unimpressed with the performance but I learned via this site it was the relatively high moisture content of my wood. Let me say this more clearly, the Regency and other high efficiency EPA rated stoves HAVE TO BURN <20% WOOD. It's just not even a question. One month into burning for this year and my wood supply is dry as a bone and the stove is performing SO MUCH better. I also tore apart the hearth and did the recommend Roxul insulation and block-off plate installs that everyone promotes here - it made a huge difference.
You probably can't heat your whole house with that stove but if you put it in one of your largest living spaces (like we've done) it is a really great convection area heater and I've been able to move some hot air out into the rest of our old farmhouse. If your house is more open layout you could probably make it work but you'll never regret bumping up to the next size.
Anyway, that's quite the rambling response - I'd say unless your quote includes a fully insulated liner and a professional block-off and insulation job that is pretty pricey.
EDIT: I just re-read your original post and the freestanding model may have the radiant heat you need to keep that house warm especially in a mid-Atlantic climate.
I have a very similarly sized house as you (~1550 sq ft) but without the cathedral ceilings. If I could do it all over, I would have probably gone with a freestanding unit but as far as inserts go I think the Regency is a good option.
Last Winter, I was relatively unimpressed with the performance but I learned via this site it was the relatively high moisture content of my wood. Let me say this more clearly, the Regency and other high efficiency EPA rated stoves HAVE TO BURN <20% WOOD. It's just not even a question. One month into burning for this year and my wood supply is dry as a bone and the stove is performing SO MUCH better. I also tore apart the hearth and did the recommend Roxul insulation and block-off plate installs that everyone promotes here - it made a huge difference.
You probably can't heat your whole house with that stove but if you put it in one of your largest living spaces (like we've done) it is a really great convection area heater and I've been able to move some hot air out into the rest of our old farmhouse. If your house is more open layout you could probably make it work but you'll never regret bumping up to the next size.
Anyway, that's quite the rambling response - I'd say unless your quote includes a fully insulated liner and a professional block-off and insulation job that is pretty pricey.
EDIT: I just re-read your original post and the freestanding model may have the radiant heat you need to keep that house warm especially in a mid-Atlantic climate.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Double wall insulated class a is far more superior than triple wall (if you can find it) Plus the insulation provides protection for high temps (chimney fire temps) and also keeps regular flue gasses warmer thus reducing condensation and the creation of creosote. I would explain that better with the insurance company.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Your question is very open ended and difficult to answer without more details. There are many good stoves out there and most will do the job but tough to narrow it down without better idea of the layout and what your expectations are.
For example some stoves are convective others are radiant, some stoves use catalytic elements others use burn tubes, still others are steel while some use cast iron or soapstone. Some stoves have high clearances to combustibles others need less.
I believe there is a sticky here that should be read before starting a "what stove should I get" thread. Would help if you posted pictures of where you hope to put the stove. With some research on your part and more info there are folks here that can help you pick.
For example some stoves are convective others are radiant, some stoves use catalytic elements others use burn tubes, still others are steel while some use cast iron or soapstone. Some stoves have high clearances to combustibles others need less.
I believe there is a sticky here that should be read before starting a "what stove should I get" thread. Would help if you posted pictures of where you hope to put the stove. With some research on your part and more info there are folks here that can help you pick.
Since your house is well insulated and your main concern is heating during power outages, I think you are OK. Also, since you have a free supply of wood, I agree with bholler, that for a slight difference, I would go larger and anticipate using more wood heat and save $$ on oil or NG. A properly sized unit should heat your home to the same extent as any furnace to keep everyone toasty warm. IOW, go bigger now and that gives you the option to heat the house with wood and only use your existing furnace when you are lazy, away or in extreme cold.
Most new stoves are similar in efficiency. Blaze King, Pacific Energy, Jotul are some of the popular stoves on here. Have a look at them and 'kick the tires'.
There are a ton of stoves that would suit. Most people on the forum agree that finding a good dealer you can trust is as important or even more important than which stove mfg. Lots of horror stories on poor installations, even by supposed pros.
I would still encourage you to spend a few days and shop around. At the very least, you'll have a greater appreciation for your first option. I can't suggest whether your price is high, low or about right without knowing all the details of the installation. It makes a big difference. The only way to be sure is to get multiple quotes and compare prices, the level of expertise and the comfort level you have with the person and the store.
Most new stoves are similar in efficiency. Blaze King, Pacific Energy, Jotul are some of the popular stoves on here. Have a look at them and 'kick the tires'.
There are a ton of stoves that would suit. Most people on the forum agree that finding a good dealer you can trust is as important or even more important than which stove mfg. Lots of horror stories on poor installations, even by supposed pros.
I would still encourage you to spend a few days and shop around. At the very least, you'll have a greater appreciation for your first option. I can't suggest whether your price is high, low or about right without knowing all the details of the installation. It makes a big difference. The only way to be sure is to get multiple quotes and compare prices, the level of expertise and the comfort level you have with the person and the store.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
You may want to investigate the height clearance requirement, some stoves require a certain height from stove top to ceiling.
And I have a friend that is a certified contractor that has done some roof work and gutter installs for us. I just didn't get a good feeling with the guys that first came and gave me an estimate.
Ok, I'll check that out also. I'm digging deep into this and I appreciate everything u guys are telling me. It seems like the jotuls have better reviews so I may go that route.
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