I NEED SOME MEASUREMENTS/PRINTS FOR PAPA BEAR STOVE

GUYS I,AM looking for some prints so i can make me a large wood stove at least the papa bear size. I,am a retired welder/fabricator and like everybody else money is real tight and i need to heat about 3500 to 4000 sq. feet with wood. i have a copy of a King Model 628 Wood Stove and idoes ok but i need a bigger stove. if somebody could help me with pictures,measurements and or prints so i could make a good stove I,d really appreciate it. materials isnt a problem here. i dont want a glass front stove and it must be for 6" flew. thanks fellas.
old man bob in tn.
bcowanwheels@aol.com
1-423-384-8938

this link to a manual gives some measurments but for the gramma and grandpa
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/8529a99d5734895193b2df8a6249feb7/

I have access to a brake that can bend up to 1/2" plate and 1/4" and 5/16" isnt a problem. i was thinking about buying a piece of 1/4" hot rolled 4' x 12' then bending each side up then buy a 4'x8' x1/4" hr to make the front and back parts, 1 door on the front. my chimney is for 6" flue pipe connection so i,am stuck with that demension. i live on top of a hill so chimney draft isnt a problem. i figure 500.00 in materials should make a good stove and you cant buy a used one for that plus go get it then catch up all the maint on it. i have a ashley insert in my up stairs but i dont like to use it because i,ve already got a couple tiny burn spots on my hardwood floors from wood poping when door is open. sure wish i'd ave made a stone floor out so far in front of f/p. oh well live and learn. gotta get a proven design stove now to build. surely you stove fellas can hook up a old fella that enjoys building his stuff. gives me something to do .
thanks
bob in tn.

how about a parts list that would be the width of a gma and the depth of a papa? can you get the doors? It will work with a 6" if you have a good chimney. I have done it.

ALL HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. AS FOR DOOR I,LL JUST MAKE IT OUT OF STEEL PLATE LIKE THE ORIGINAL MODEL WAS.

I called it a great gma, I made it or combined a gma and papa to make this stove. It will heat approx 3500 sq ft in homes it is in. No rating in a lab was done.
top 5/16 is better but 1/4 will work 251/2 x39
sides 1/4 24 x32 need 2
back 1/4 23 1/2 x 24
bottom 1/4 23 1/2 x 31 3/4
top front 1/4 is 3 x 23 1/2
bottom front 1/4 4 x 23 1/2
front sides 1/4 11 x 2 3/4 need 2
baffle 1/4 4x 23

3/16 angle 1 1/2 2- 24" front legs
2 30" rear legs
1 16" brick clip rear
2 24" brick clip sides

If you take the top and measure in from the front 18 13/16 and bend a 68 degree angle and measure in from the back and do the same it will have the correct bend for the top.
If you have issues or questions send a pm. I have the step by step procedure for building a stove. I have handles and hindge pins. If you want to build an ash pan like the original fisher I can talk you through it too.

Let me know if I can help.

NOW WERE TALKIN, SPEC'S...... IF YOUR IN N.E. GA. YOU CANT BE FAR FROM KINGSPORT, TN.

about 200 miles, if you want the papa cut size it would be
top 20 x39
sides 24 x 32
back 24 x17 1/2
bottom 31 3/4 x 17 1/2
front 17 1/2 x3
front 17 1/2 x 4
front sides 11 x 3 1/2
baffel 17 1/4 x 4
legs would be the same
top would bend the same
brick clips sides the same
back brick clip 12 "

basic steps to building this
1. have all the parts ready before starting the welding
2. on a clean welding table clamp the 4" front piece and using a framing square and clamps put the front sides on each end of this. tack
put the 3' on top and tack when it is square. the front assembled will be 17 1/2' wide if you are building the papa weld all the parts on both sides keeping it clamp to prevent warping. Grind one of the sides of the weld smooth. use care with the grinder. you will be able to see some of this in your finished stove.
3 put a side on the table and take the top and when the side is flat on the table take the top and put the top in place. put about 3/4' of the top past the the side rear. You want more hanging over the front. mark the side where the top drops down into it and repeat the same for the other side. If you leave 3/4 on one side do it for both or you will have quite a gap to fill ,
I am going to post and continue. I do not want to do all this and loose it in space when about complete.

4. cut out the area of the sides you marked set them off the table
5. take you grinder and clean the table top. any weld slag on the table will scratch the top and other pieces.
6 take 2 pieces of 1/4 about the size of the baffel and lay them on the table. put the bottom on these . the pieces should not be so big you can see them it is used for a spacer for later you can weld the bottom to the rest of the parts
6. take the back and holding it upright line up the matching widths on the bottom and tack the back to the bottom
7. take one side and line up the side to the bottom. the side will stick past the bottom in the back and front. about center of the back. the side should be the same height as the back. tack the side to the bottom only in the back half of the side do not tack in the front. do the same for the other side.

8. tac the back to the sides after you line them up. they should split center and be flush on top.
9 Weld the inside of the box where the back and sides join ...only here
10 take 2 fire brick set them on the bottom and up the back. take the 12" angle and put it on top of the brick. Center the back. raise the angle about 1/4" and angle it towards you and tac.
11. do the same for the sides.
12 use 2 2" or so angle iron and the baffel. put the baffel above the rear brick clip 1 1/2' level and point the baffle towards the top where it starts going up and tack. put the clips under the baffle on both front sides and tack. Weld both the clips and baffle to the back of the stove.
13. take the assembed front and put it in place. the sides should spread to allow the front to fit tight to the bottom. flush the top where you cut for the top and the bottom let run wild. it will not be a factor. but keep the front flush with the sides tac now weld from the top to the bottom both sides.
14 if you are installing channel for the front install it now and weld it up. weld on the inside of the stove one it looks better and 2 welds will not interfer with the door

15. Grind the sides that you cut just to dress them up for installing the top. this is loud and will hurt your ears. it does not have to be perfect
16. now put your top on. adjust it where the over hang is correct on the sides back and front. When you do this it will be amazing if it justs fits just right .
pick the best fit whether it top back or top front and tac. it is better to tac it inside the stove but with a papa and the depth out side is fine. just keep the tack small. Where it did not fit as well take bar clamps and pull it in place. the smaller the joints the smaller the weld and the better the stove looks
do not tack where the legs will be.
17. now watch your feet and slide the box toward you and lift it up so you can see the botttom of the stove. the spacers you used will fall off the table now and they hurt the top of your feet.
18 take the 24 inch angle and slide until it touchs the top these are the front legs. Make sure it is tight to the top or the stove will wobble. make sure no tacks or slag is in the way either. tack in place to the top and inside the angle at the bottom
19 now put the stove on its top and position it to where you can install the 30" legs tack at the top and bottom not the sides or front you will see this again make sure all is out of your way for a smooth install

20. now put the stove where you can go in the front opening. weld the top to the sides inside the stove. about a 2" weld. this is to prevent leaks at the leg and if you wait on this step the box gets very hot to do this later.
21 now weld the top all the way around, and the bottom all the way. weld the legs to the bottom also inside the angle.
22 weld the front to the channel that you could not do earlier.
22. sign your name to the bottom and date it and you are done with what we called a box.
If you put the stove on its side and grabbing the legs slide it towards you. you can lower the stove and the top will hook the table and down you go. if you have help it would be better for this step.

add to step ten posted earlier to put several 1" welds on the brick clips

Now this is how is was done in our factory. One person saw the prints, built the stove and came up with the method to tell all the welders. I know there are precise notes etc on the drawings and Coley can add those. None of the welders on the line saw them. It would slow things down to much. I can copy prints if you are precise but it is costly to do that. Just remember the 2 spacer pieces hurt the feet and taking the stove off the table can hurt you too. I have put many on the ground. If you hit them wrong it can bend the legs and that sucks to have a second or something to fix. In the time it took to type this I could have it all welded up. 45 min to an hour with all the parts ready is normal to do this.
I hope Coaly saves these posts I do not want to do it again. lol If you decide to build it I will add the finishing part later. flueing, ash fender, hanging the door and brick, grinding and painting.

Good luck, you should be good to go now.

thank you so much ! would by chance wouldnt have and doors and related components for sale would you ?
bob

I have hindges, hindge pins, handles, no more draft caps and spring handles for the 1/2" rod are not in great shape. I have barrels of other sizes of spring handles.
Before you start the stove you should decide what you are going to do about the door. I have some HB solid, Hb glass and grandma doors. I have some Gma 4 doors. You may want to consider making your own door. Or you could find a stove that is trashed but has a good door. It is hard to find a trashed Fisher tho. My doors have been saved and they are the last known new doors out there. So they would not be cheap. If you have a stove shop near you and they sell a solid door stove you may be able to buy a door from them. I would not buy a glass door for a homemade stove since you would have to incorperate an air wash for the doors. The stove parts list would change. I have the Gma 3 air wash slides for the stove front. They did ok but there are better air wash methods today. If you find a door that does not fit lets say it is to wide. Then you can make the top, back and bottom wider and you are set. the front would have to be custom sized, which if you are a metal worker that would not be a problem.
With all this said the ball is in your court. You may want to also check with you insurance. Most do not want to hear you are wanting to install a home made stove, or a stove with out a clearance tag on it either. So I do not want to suggest you do this and you get it done and can not install it. When I sell a refurbished stove and tell people this most have no plans on telling their insurance, that is their call.
Let me know what you decide to do. I have pictures of each step I discribed above. I did this on the last stove I built from start to finish.

BCOWANWHEELS, I have over 30+ years in the welding /fabrication field, and you got some great advice above but "just a thought" why don't you find a Grandpa bear and enlarge it?. There is lots you can do with one and you'll already have a platform to work with. If you have to have the 6" flue, no problem, cut out the 8", plate in and weld up hole then find some 6" pipe or roll some flat stock to size and weld it in where you want. It seems like you want a project but my thought is you may find a stove reasonably cheap and have something start with. Good luck on your venture.

I guess in my opinion it would be easier to build a new one than to try and modify a used one. No seams from expanding etc. But yes you could make one bigger but I think appearance would be like trying to paint a car at home. It may look ok from a distance but the closer you get the worst it looks

Agreed with building new, you can make it and design it to any liking. I was just thinking along the lines of time and $$$. I'm never against a good project and go at them with a challenge. It seemed there may be a financial limit involved and thought may be an easier route to go.