1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

FISHER Papa, Mama, and Baby Bear Details (Bear Series)

Post in 'Fisher Stove Information, Parts, History and More' started by coaly, May 11, 2012.

  1. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,929
    Loc:
    NE PA
    They were not rated by BTU since wood species across the country would vary widely.
    Keep in mind they were designed in an area where there is soft woods only.
    Fisher literature for Mama Bear stated; " Heats Approx. 1500 sf " or " up to 1750 sf " or " 1250 - 1750 "
    Here's one of many calculators; http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/burn_time_calculator

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2005
    Messages:
    12,177
    Loc:
    Western Mass.
    Here is a Fisher ad and dealer listing from 1977 - Coaly, feel free to move the post or tell me if it should be in another thread, etc.
    fisherdeal.jpg
    jjs777_fzr likes this.
  3. DianeB

    DianeB Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2012
    Messages:
    400
    Loc:
    Foot Hills of the Berkshires
    We bought ours in 77 at the Franklin County Fair from the guys out of Bow, NH
  4. Dell

    Dell Member

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2012
    Messages:
    13
    Loc:
    SE PA
    I like the Fisher Ad. "Will last longer than you will" - true.
    jjs777_fzr likes this.
  5. hotinhere

    hotinhere New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2013
    Messages:
    1
    Loc:
    Piedmont VA
    HI folks, My poor Papa Bear is in dire need of fire bricks, but my father-in-law and husband can't seem to find the right "pattern" for setting them. Is there a diagram or something out there? Also, can someone tell me exactly where I can find my stove's number? My hubby and I have both risked sweat, burns, hot mirrors and flashlights trying to find where the number would be on our woodstove, all because I found this site last night and got ALL KINDS OF EXCELLENT INFO! We promise to wait til our stove cools down overnight to look again in the morning before we bank it again for the day. lol
    I have to admit, I never knew the joys of wearing tank tops and shorts in the winter or having to open your front door to cool off your house in the dead of winter with a good piece of oak and a cranking woodstove! I'm hooked, I tell ya. ;)
    jjs777_fzr likes this.
  6. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,929
    Loc:
    NE PA
    Welcome to the Forum;

    You must be looking for this thread;
    http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/papa-bear-firebricks.89792/

    I had a lot of questions about brick replacement so finally titled a thread for Mama , Papa and Baby complete with the original drawing pictures showing brick size and placement. You should always measure the inside first to be sure it was built to the exact size it was supposed to be. You'll be able to tell by the measurements if the brick sizes given add up to what you have.

    If the stove came from the state you're in, it would be from the Dunn Brothers. Not sure how methodical they may be numbered if at all. It would be a "stove number", not serial number.
    Stoves from the east coast that I can tell you were numbered were from PA and GA both numbered on the bottom in weld. Others like NY and NJ stamped the back in the upper top corner.

    Ace Hardware has bricks by the box about 3.00 each. I found them at a local masonry supply for $1.50 each !

    All us guys with Fishers have hot wives ;). And yeah, we don't put the summer clothes away.
    jjs777_fzr likes this.
  7. Shwammy

    Shwammy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2010
    Messages:
    54
    Loc:
    Central NC
  8. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,929
    Loc:
    NE PA
    The first post of this thread shows the early doors and draft caps.

    The first stoves had steel plate doors, then a cast iron door was suggested by Bob's father Baxter. A few cracked between the air intake holes and the trees were added to make the door thicker. This is an early three piece top before the tops were bent from one piece. The draft caps were pipe caps with a half inch bolt "plug" welded in the center. The draft caps with fins were invented by Bob's father, Baxter as well.
    For a time line on the stoves development you can read The Fisher Stove Story here; Click on attachments tab for PDF of the scanned book
    http://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/bob-fisher/

    Original draft caps;
    Fisher Original Draft cap.JPG Original Fisher Draft Cap.JPG The pipe cap was drilled in the center and welded through the hole to the top of bolt head.

    First style cast door; (and also the door style pictured on the Fisher Stove Story cover)
    Notice bent handle and solid chrome ball as well.

    Early Papa Bear door.jpg Notice top plate detail welded with 3 pieces.
  9. Shwammy

    Shwammy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2010
    Messages:
    54
    Loc:
    Central NC
    Thanks Coaly, interesting stuff. Now if I can just find one of these for a bit less money....
  10. Cormier

    Cormier New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2015
    Messages:
    1
    Loc:
    Palermo, Maine
    Hi Coaly
    We just moved into a new house and there is what we believe to be a Baby Bear in the basement. No patent number or shield plate on the back. Guessing it is an early model. No baffle. We are wondering if it is worth welding in a round baffle plate. Is this worth restoring to use as our main source of heat? We live in Maine and survived a very cold winter with a small box stove last winter but need something larger for the future. The past owners said this stove would heat up cherry red, stove pipe too, and didn't think it was very safe to use for the main source of heat. We are curious if a baffle would make the difference.

    Attached Files:

  11. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,929
    Loc:
    NE PA
    Welcome to the Forum;
    It would help prevent overheating the pipe. If any part of the stove or pipe begins to glow, it is being over fired. They should have closed the intake more or slowed the draft with a pipe damper. Sounds like it has an excessive drafting chimney that needs to be controlled. The baffle plate will do that to an extent, but a damper makes it adjustable. The stove was designed for only up to 1000 s.f. So size the stove according to heated square footage.
    For a main heat source, I like at least a Mama Bear in case you're gone for 8 hours. They hold more fuel in case you need longer burn times.
    Yes, that's an early one, '75 or '76 ?
  12. sara926

    sara926 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2015
    Messages:
    1
    Loc:
    Weymouth, MA
    Hello everyone! I have read so many things on this blog since stumbling upon it. I've loved learning so much about the Fisher stove. We recently just purchased a home in Weymouth, Mass and there was a Fisher Baby Bear in the living room. On the back there are a few numbers engraved in it. I believe they are K239 and 3806 2. Any idea what those mean or what year this Baby Bear was made? There is no rust on it and it really looks great. We were looking to sell it, but now I think I want to keep it for forever! Thanx everyone -sara
    IMG_0416.JPG IMG_0415.JPG
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 11, 2015
  13. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,929
    Loc:
    NE PA
    I'd say the welder was using the #1 stamp to make a K for his initial, and it's the 239 th stove from that fabricator. (or 1239 ?)
    No idea of the other number. Don't know of a serial number on them before tags started in 1980.
    It's not a part number since Baby Bear was 237 on drawings. The drawings start with the first page called "Assembly" that shows entire stove drawing number 237-100. Then the drawings have each part drawn on a separate page. (Baby Bear is 18 pages) The Back drawing number that was sometimes considered a "part number" was 237-102, and the Top is 237-105. So those numbers are not from the drawings.
    I'm guessing there are no markings in weld on the bottom, since it's stamped on the back. That could give you the state on bottom if it was PA. If it's a single piece bent top, I'm guessing '76 from Mass. I find no fabricator licensed in Mass. in '75.

    The draft cap bolt is adjusted out too far. It should only be even or stick out enough to get a wrench on when the cap is closed. Sometimes when people have too large of a chimney or poor draft, they back the bolt out farther to be able to open the draft cap more for more air to make up for the poor draft. It also gives it too much air as shown by the discolored paint on the back around the vent. That's the hottest running part of the stove and a place to look for hairline cracks around the outlet. Normally the discoloration doesn't harm anything but the paint.

Share This Page