If you could go back in time . . . .

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Vic99

Minister of Fire
Dec 13, 2006
857
MA, Suburb of Lowell
So I'm new to the wood burning world this year and have learned a ton from this site/forum. In trying to learn from the experiences of other it occured to me to ask you all this question:

Knowing what you know now, if you could, what would you have changed about how you burn/harvest wood now?
 
If you cut your own wood, suck it up and get a really good chainsaw to begin with. Leave the cheapo versions alone.
 
One of my biggest pet peaves that I have is being limited by my equipment.

My dad has always said:
"There is a price you pay for the price you pay."

It couldn't be more true!
-SF
 
I have a rural property that I harvest wood from. My truck and small trailer hold about a cord combined. It akes about an hour of driving each way and most of the day to process a cord from the tree to the loaded truck.

I learned that this is not an efficient way to collect wood. It takes too much time, too much work, too much money, and too much risk. The price of a cord is pretty decent here in my area so my future plan is to have logs delivered to my residential home or have firewood delivered and pay for it. For pure recreation which does have some value, I will still collect firewood from the rural property but I just won't try and do it to save money.

I have learned that it doesn't really matter which species of softwood I choose, they are all pretty similar in output depsite the charts that say there are more btus in the denser woods. Maybe the difference is just not as significant as the lack of insulation in my home.
 
For me it would be getting a large enough stove in the first place. Highbeam has it correct, insulating the house first is usually the best payoff/investment.
 
Yes, I've learned a lot about insulation in the last 2 weeks. Trying hard to make my house "average" insulated.
 
Trying to imagine some insulation in the walls. Maybe windows replaced sometime in the last 80 years............

Matt
 
The insulation was certainly a good point, and probably the best thing to upgrade in the house.

But as far as cutting/harvesting, etc.... it all depends on how much time you can or want to devote to it. A few years ago I really enjoyed doing a lot of splitting by hand. As things get busier - I got a splitter so I could make sure everything got done.

It's a matter of perspective, but - nope - really would not have changed any decisions I made before.

wow - now I feel old :gulp:
 
I've nearly finished with all the insulation that I can realistically do . . . . removing wood paneling, breaking through lath & plaster and dropping cellulose down between joists. Tedious, but reasonably effective. Some areas I can't get to without wrecking the walls . . . hopefully partial insulation is better than none.

I really enjoy the cutting and spliting process . . . the electric chainsaw that I have is slow, but it is grab and go. I may get a gas one when it eventually dies, some days I wish it was quicker. Love the maul to, but there are days when I wish I had a splitter. Spent so much money this year already, though.
 
If you have less than 3 years' worth of burnable wood on hand, and reasonably have to space to do so, don't stop cutting wood.
 
Would have used insulated pipe up and out of the old wooden tool shed we converted into a hippie sauna back in '71 when we lived in West Va. Learned mighty quick about clearance and fires. Other than that I have enjoyed each and every fuel and stove we have had. They all had their good point, some a more than others.
 
A very hard one,,,,, But I would not listen to my wife. And buy a stove that heats the home and forget the looks. Buy from a good company and spend time to find a dealer that has been in business for years.
 
#1 thing that I would do differently is arrange the wood piles differently. I just stuck some boards down on some bricks in a likely spot when some neighbors were going to bring over a truckload of wood, before we had a stove, and I didn't think ahead to the next pile and the next. Plan where many wood piles will go ahead of time, in an organized fashion, instead of just plunking a small one here, another one there. Also, have all wood piles doubled up, the single long rows really tend to fall over, whereas the double rows help hold each other up.

Other things we have learned: There is only so far you should drive for a load of 'free' firewood (our limit used to be much further, now it is about 15 miles one way.) Otherwise you are paying for your firewood in gasoline.

We are keen on our hearth, our stove, and its central location which really heats our whole house, so another piece of advice is don't scrimp on $$ for a higher chimney if that will put the stove in a part of the house that will provide more heat. We did that right but were also considering another location which in retrospect would have really sucked and not heated the house well. Which is of course why we didn't choose it, but it would have cost about $1000 less to install there (much less chimney pipe needed and maybe even could have used an existing one for our old furnace) so it was tempting.
 
Season and stack your own wood and work on at least wo years ahead. Build a woodshed. You want to know your wood is truly dry and you want it to stay that way and be easy to get in any weather. Love every part of the process, ( okay..maybe I don't love stacking)
 
jpl1nh said:
Season and stack your own wood and work on at least wo years ahead. Build a woodshed. You want to know your wood is truly dry and you want it to stay that way and be easy to get in any weather. Love every part of the process, ( okay..maybe I don't love stacking)


I second that. 2 years minimum. That is satisfaction and peace of mind, (worth more that $3/gallon of#2 heat oil), But that is only one dudes opinion.
 
Although most sources seem to say dry for a minimum of 6 months or a minimum of a year, I see a lot of people talk about 2 years here. Still haven't gotten a moisture meter.

My first 2 weeks worth of wood was 2 years old. I'm currently burning stuff I stacked in mid April. My last rack was stacked in June . . . hoping that I crack that in February. So most of what I have is 8 months dry. Haven't noticed a difference, but I'm new and not efficient yet . . . although have made great strides in the last week.

Everything gets supplemented by broken pallets and 85 year old lathe that I have (still have a cord of that left).

Next year everything should be 1 year + (have 1.25 cords already). Going to try to get to a point where I can season sugar maple for 2 years.
 
I agree with get a good chain saw, I might add get a splitter if you are going to be splitting a lot of wood for a lot of years.
When you are thinking of getting or changing stoves you need to really think it through. There are lots of good lookers and good performers; you have to pick the right one for you.
I would oversize my stove a bit, but not too much as burning too hot is bad but burning a large stove too cool is just as bad. And, you have to rely on people who know, like those on this forum, for real world answers. Almost everything you read in the brochures and hear from the dealer is questionable at best. You need real world user experience to base decisions on.
Finally, you need more attention to the chimney than the stove. It has to draft right and it has to be safe. Very SAFE as your life depends on the chimney's integrity.
In the end, you have to love burning wood: its one of those things that gets in your blood: or not...
 
Clownfish99 said:
So I'm new to the wood burning world this year and have learned a ton from this site/forum. In trying to learn from the experiences of other it occured to me to ask you all this question:

Knowing what you know now, if you could, what would you have changed about how you burn/harvest wood now?
-
Some obvoius points for old hands but maybe newbees could benifit, I hope.
First,

i would have bought an new EPA secondarty burn stove , sized properly for my house, instead of the 1960 smoke dragon that I have now, which BTW I am in the process of refitting to secondary burn because it was eating a cord a week on me. I hope to get that down to 1/2 a cord a week with the same heat, after completing modifications, but we will see what I have when I'm done with it.
Second,
------------------------
Excuse, sorry,I'm ranting below, a bit, but I already paid for it, in hard work & dollars, and every time I see those 4 cords of rotten wood, I just get steamed all over again. Its a real sore spot with me; shouldn't be, but it is. And I didn't much care for wasting 475.oo either, on a piece of junk splitter.
--------------------------
i would never have bought an electric (log) LIMB splitter 2hp ,4 ton, but is that rating truthfull, I doubt it. because (they)?/ mine wont split anything over 4 or 5 inch diameter without taking two inch slices off the log until you drop the diameter down to 4 or 5 inch for one stroke splitting.

I figure that the electric log splitter caused me to loose 4 cords of good wood my first year, because it was too slow & couldn't do the job, even though I spent all spring,summer & fall, clear through nov & two weeks in dec 2005, because it just couldn't handle the 20 in, 24in & 26 in logs. They ended up going rotten, because I had no wood sheds then & could not split them by sledge & wedge. At least, not more that 3 a day, then sleep for 6 h

If I had the 22 ton huskee, back then, I could have split all that wood, making it light enough for me to carry down the stairs to the basement, and probably saved most if not all of it.

with a weak electric splitter ,like mine, you end up doing 20 strokes to split what a 22 huskee $1000.oo from tractorsupply.com
will split in 1 stroke.

Maybe the riobei splitter is more powerful than mine,I don't know, but I suspect it might be.
But 22 ton or nothing.


Who wants to work hard for 45 minutes just to split up one large log & you end up with a lot of small splits that burn up really fast when what you might really want is a larger split for a all night burn.
Compair that to the 2 minutes it takes the huskee to do the same job.

The electric splitter is just too weak to do the job. 66% of the time the ram just goes up to a larger log & stops dead in its tracks while the electric motor & hydralic pump runs uselessly.

Instructions say to release the spring loaded motor on switch after 5 seconds of motor humming with ram stopped up against too tough a log & to reposition the log & try again. Sometimes , but not often, maybe 5 % of the time, you might,maybe, be able to split the log if you find a weak point in the grain of the wood.

The 22 ton huskee is about the most bang for the least bucks & already preassembled with engine oil & hydralic fluid installed. No assembly whatsoever, required. Just check the engine & hyrdalic fluid dip sticks to see if they really are full & you are ready to split wood.

Similar log splitters frequently cost up to 500.oo more, come unassembled in a wooden crate,so that you cant tow them home behind your car without your own trailer & you have to buy seperately engine oil & hydralic fluid at an added cost of $100.oo and have fun, with lots of friends to help, assembling parts onto a 350 pound I beam. It is not a one man job. or some stores may assemble it for you for only an extra $75.oo or $100.oo

Third,

I would have modified my basement with a wheelbarrow roll in sized door, to bring in the wood, the first year I started burning, instead of the second year.

Fourth,

I would have built 3 wood sheds, close to the abouve mentioned basement door , the first year I burned ,instead of the second year. I'm thinking about yet another wood shed,
you can never have enough dry seasoned wood.

Fifth,

I prefer the electric chain saws for ease of opperation. The electrics don't vibrate my hands numb like the gas saws do. Even the gas saws with anti vibration mounting handles still vibrate too much for my liking & cause me to stop cutting before the day is half done.

Lucky to be able to cut 45 minutes with a solid handled gas saw, if that.

I'd rather spend a little longer cutting with an electric saw that have my hands hurt all all day & half the night.

Voice of experience, I have 4 elecritics & 5 gas saws, 3 with anti vibration handles & two solid
handles. I have not cut with gas since early 2006, when I got my first electic.

I'm sure there will be some arguments about this, so yes, gas is way faster but hard to maintain the carbs & fuel systems, & gas is way more powerfull so if you are young & your hands can take it , go gas. They cut faster & some might say better, but not for me, maybe so, for some one else.

If your old and have circulation problems, forget gas & go electic. Your hands will thank you.
Or try them both & decide for yourself. It is after all ,personal preference.

Remember that an electric saw needs a cord , that can be plugged into a dc/ac inverter powered from you car altinator or a small generator. So, electric can go portable, but gas is easier & better for deep in woods applications.

For me, lack of vibration is the key factor I look for. Everything else is a poor third.

Going on 60 , and 3d year of my wood cutting & spliting career.
I probably just mananged to point out the obvious for many of you readers ,but if this helps only 1 person, it was worth all the type
 
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