Installing stove in shop with flat roof.... got questions...

[Ducky is King]

Ok. I got a wood stove from my cousin, its actually a pretty big one...

I painted the top green with high temp paint just to see what it would look like.... It doesnt appeal to me, which is why just the top is done. The weather here is deteriorating, so come next summer ima sandblast and paint the stove. I have all the equipment to do such, but thats next summers project...

Anyways, I have a shop, its 50' long, x 55' deep. We been using a gas furnace to heat it, but $300 gas bill every month at 40F plus the $350 a month bill for the house is a bit much in my opinion.

My father passed away Sept2 07, and we had only discussed this option breifly. He built the shop from the ground up so he knew everything there was to know about the building... he was also on the 'extreme' end of a professional diy'er... to give an example, we bought a 1995 E350 cutaway van from my cousin, in 1999. Well the van was too high to fit thru the 10' overhead door, so, we took the air out of the tires and backed it in on the rims... then, against the advice of both Ford, and Unicell, we made a horizontal cut, all the way around the body, and cut out a piece 6inches high, and then lowered the top half down, bolted it back together, and viola!

go here for pics:
http://www.ihumpedurcat.com/ranger/white/index.htm

ok, so ya dad was amazing... then theres me. Im 26. Dad got very ill about 10yrs ago, and i became the PCT. so, Im a bit handy, like i can do alot i set my mind to, but at the same time, like, im very cautions... SO here, i have this stove I wanna put in the shop... Now, i know with the proper parts I can put it in myself, however thats what im missing, is a parts list. I have the external piece:

and the stove itself. Can i use just ordinary 6inch galvanized pipe? I am going about 8ft to a flat ceiling. from there, its 5/8 fireproof drywall, with 2x8 rafters on a flat roof, with torchdown. Now, the beams are 16 oc. but I was gonna go up behind one of the main steel beams for the roof, here:

the 2x4 marks the spot of the pipe, pretty closesly.

That pipe is an air line for the shop air.

Now. Im not loaded here, which is why i am opting for the diy instead of pro install. the other concern with the pro install is there is ALOT of stuff in that shop that I dont want just some 'guy' i have never met before in my life knowing about whats in there. (so i post pics online instead LOL!)

Anyways, I was thinking, I could make a little galvanized box in the ceiling and put the 'through the roof' kit inside this box for added fire protection. Also, how many dampers do I need?

ANd one more thing, I was thinking about setting this stove on 6 cinder bloacks, 2 stacks , 3 blocks high to get it up off the floor about 16inches. would make it easier to telnd to, and your less likely to walk into it if its about waist high... any thoughts?

 

[Ducky is King]

I just remembered, I have two 12ft sections of (now illegal) asbestos pipe can I use that? I think its for drainage tho...

 

[DriftWood]

OK I don't know where to start I'm A diy’er too. I would talk to the building inspector about your plan for installing your stove. Just see what he wants to see on his final instillation inspection. That is what I did first thing before I put my stove in, or bought pipe. Its got to be a 100% safe plan no guessing, you don't want to burn down your shop.

 

[Jimbob]

Went to install a stove in a shop, and based on what we needed to do, I have a few points:

1) You can't use galvanized pipe for the connector pipe, it has to be the black stuff.
2) The bottom edge of the firebox has to be 18" off the floor. The insurance guys might not like cinder blocks as a stove support, in case one crumbles under the weight of the stove when you aren't around, and the stove is going. A welded steel pedastal would look good under the stove.
3) Some type of impact protection is reqiured to prevent vehicles, or very large tool boxes for example, from hitting the stove (kind of like you see around gas meters mounted near parking areas).

Once we did that, everything was okay.
BTW, that stove looks like it takes a stove pipe bigger than 6"

....Hope this helps.

 

[Gooserider]

1. Solid fuel appliances are NOT LEGAL to install in a "garage" due to fears of gas fumes igniting and such. The difference between a "shop" and a "garage" is not always clear, but if you can get vehicles into it, it would likely be counted as a garage. So you should talk to your buiding inspector and insurance co. before starting to do anything.

2. You can't use the asbestos pipe, you need to put a "pass through support box" made by the same folks that made your Class A pipe into the roof, with proper flashing and so forth. from the stove to the box, you need to use single or double wall stove pipe. Do NOT use galvanized pipe, it won't take the heat and will give off toxic fumes.

3. That stove looks like an old "smoke dragon" that will burn tons of wood, and give you lots of pollution while making some heat. If it does not have a UL listing tag on the back, you will probably have trouble getting approval on installing it, and it may not be legal to install at all in some parts of the country. A more modern stove EPA-II approved stove will give you more heat on less wood. We tend to cringe whenever we see someone trying to install one of those old smoke dragon stoves.

Gooserider

 

[JohnCusick]

I think he's got a VC Vigilant. The one we just retired was a 1980 vintage and it DID have a UL listing.
Also, that stove requires a 8" stovepipe/chimney.
We converted a garage to a 'shop for a client last year and the garage doors were staying in place. The building inspector made us put cement filled 6" dia pipe in front of the garage doors as barracades to car entry.
John