I was cleaning my 1402. Removed the baffles and noticed in the top left side running horizontal where the side section meets the top section there appears to be a small gap at the joint. Isthis by desisn or do I have an issue? I've also been having trouble getting the stove over 400 F. I use a magnetic thermo on top the stove in front of the blower exit. Originally it would get up yo 550 F, seems like performance has dropped off as well as burn time? It is only a few weeks old so I don't have alot of history, but something seems to have shanged.
Is my stove cracked?
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Don't know about the gap but you may want to check your chimney cap and see if it's got some build up. Sounds like your wood could be a little on the wet side?
Generally a crack would have the same effect as cracking open the door. The fire should flare up, go wild, and overheat the stove. If you can't get over 400 degrees you have a different problem. Two common sources for this problem are wood and draft.
The easiest and cheapest thing to try first is a bag of kiln dried wood from a supermarket or convenience store. After ruling out wood you start looking at the chimney. Is it high enough, is is partially plugged?
Matt
The easiest and cheapest thing to try first is a bag of kiln dried wood from a supermarket or convenience store. After ruling out wood you start looking at the chimney. Is it high enough, is is partially plugged?
Matt
I agree, I guess I should explain fully. I have been keeping it at 400F by loading small loads. I get a bed of hot coals, add 3 splits and get around 400F. I can't load the stove full because it does run hot then. I put in 3 splits E-W and then 3 N-S and it went to 550F - 575F. That's with the draft closed completely. I'm guessing if I were to add more wood it would definitely go into the danger zone.
Last night it was cold and very windy. After I had my hot bed built, I threw in 4 splits of oak, about 12" x 5" x 3", it went to 550F, again with the draft closed. My chimney is wrapped / flex 316, top sealed and block off plate, interior chimney, 15 Ft. I have no problem drafting. It was just installed and I checked / brushed it after 3 weeks.
The lower left corner of the glass constantly gets browned, after just a few hrs of burning. Even at the 550F burn, it browns and doesn't cook off. The rest of the glass stays clear. Makes me think I'm sucking air either there or in the stove.
I'm not sure if it's design, but where the top plate meets the left side plate there appears to be a small space or gap. There is a weld along this seam but it does not run the entire length, only in about 6" from the front. So not knowing it could just be how the stove is made? Maybe someone else that hasone can elaborate on that?
If I open the door, the left side along the hinges shows signs of heat, but the rest of te face of the stove around the door doe not. This combined with the glass smoking in tat corner makes me think maybe something is up. Again, I'm a new owner, so I hope some of you that have the 1402 can enlighten me.
I took some pics also, but haveno clue how t post them here? Is there a tutorial somewhere?
Last night it was cold and very windy. After I had my hot bed built, I threw in 4 splits of oak, about 12" x 5" x 3", it went to 550F, again with the draft closed. My chimney is wrapped / flex 316, top sealed and block off plate, interior chimney, 15 Ft. I have no problem drafting. It was just installed and I checked / brushed it after 3 weeks.
The lower left corner of the glass constantly gets browned, after just a few hrs of burning. Even at the 550F burn, it browns and doesn't cook off. The rest of the glass stays clear. Makes me think I'm sucking air either there or in the stove.
I'm not sure if it's design, but where the top plate meets the left side plate there appears to be a small space or gap. There is a weld along this seam but it does not run the entire length, only in about 6" from the front. So not knowing it could just be how the stove is made? Maybe someone else that hasone can elaborate on that?
If I open the door, the left side along the hinges shows signs of heat, but the rest of te face of the stove around the door doe not. This combined with the glass smoking in tat corner makes me think maybe something is up. Again, I'm a new owner, so I hope some of you that have the 1402 can enlighten me.
I took some pics also, but haveno clue how t post them here? Is there a tutorial somewhere?
500 or even 700 on the stove top of that stove, while hot, is not danger zone. 550-650 is completely normal.
If you can post some pictures of the area(s) of concern, that would help.
If you can post some pictures of the area(s) of concern, that would help.
I have the 1402 as well. I had the same question a little while back. Take a look at my thread. As you can see in that thread I had a little air leak right where the weld ends. I do believe the welds ending there is the design. The weld probably continues on the outside of the firebox (cant see it because the shroud hides it). I ended up filling the leaks with furnace cement like was recommended earlier. I did not notice a change in performance though. I also have the black window in the bottom corners most all the time. My stove routinely runs 600-650, black windows always there. Do the dollar bill test on the door to see if you have a leak, probably not though. I think you need to get over the temperature issue, burning it hotter is not dangerous.
Others on here have had their 1402 up to 900 F and seen no ill effects, not that that is recommended.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/47163/
Others on here have had their 1402 up to 900 F and seen no ill effects, not that that is recommended.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/47163/
A full load should create more heat, not less.
If you can only load 3 splits at a time, something is wrong.
A. Wet wood,
B. Too little draft,
C. Cutting the sit back too soon, or too far.
D. All of the above.
If you can only load 3 splits at a time, something is wrong.
A. Wet wood,
B. Too little draft,
C. Cutting the sit back too soon, or too far.
D. All of the above.
Not sure how to check the glass gasket? I'm still trying to figure out how to post some pics. I suspect a full load would definitely yield more heat, just haven't tried it yet since I can hit 575F with just 4 splits. How much and what size etc wood do you guys load in a 1402? All one size or a variety and in what configuration and at what temps?
It's tough being a Newbie, you guys are a super asset though. This is an excellent site for information and help.
Thanks!
It's tough being a Newbie, you guys are a super asset though. This is an excellent site for information and help.
Thanks!
You can hold an incense candle to it or even a match to see if theres any effect. Could be you can just tell by opening door when cool and examining the gasket. Mine came from factory lose not even put on all the way just hanging there. Its an easy fix. Window gaskets are flat.
So hold a match to it and see if there is an effect? Can you explain please? I can see alot of the gasket sticking out, is that right? I still haven't figured out how t post a dangpic, would be so much easier, grrrrrr.
Ok, let's try this. This isa pic of the inside seam was asking about. If it works, I'll post the door pics.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hunterpa64/StovePics#5435637832814609346
http://picasaweb.google.com/hunterpa64/StovePics#5435637832814609346
Ok, heres a link to the glass gasket. Does this help?
http://picasaweb.google.com/hunterpa64/StovePics#5435638166533032370
And a pic of the stove front on the same side as the gasket above.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hunterpa64/StovePics#5435638092675383634
http://picasaweb.google.com/hunterpa64/StovePics#5435638166533032370
And a pic of the stove front on the same side as the gasket above.
http://picasaweb.google.com/hunterpa64/StovePics#5435638092675383634
Ok, I thought so too. Would you say it's the glass gasket? Bad door? Or? How about the pic of the seam, any comments there?
You only show a corner of glass gasket but even so it is hard to tell from pic. The glass gasket should be 1/2 inside and 1/2 between glass and door. If its correct it will be sticking out equally all around the glass. So just check to see if there is an even amount of flat gasket sticking out all around the glass. I do not know enough about your seam to make judgment.
hunterpa64 said:
Depending on how much heat & how long a burn you want.
For long burn times, usually overnight.... large splits with mediums &/or smalls on top to fill er up.
For fast, quick up to higher temps, smaller & medium splits.
Yes with 3 you'll still get to higher temps, but you'll be loading more often also and going through more home temp rollercoaster up/down swings by more frequent cooling down & heating up cycles.
Personally, in my insert, I can get as high as temps or low as I want, with small load, or large load. Large load from cooler fill up temp might take a bit longer to get up to temp.
You will get the hang of it with time.
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