Is One Year Enough

[Sprinter]

I do have the meter but I did put the rows next two each other. Maybe I willl just pull out the two middle rows and make two long rows instead of one will this helps since it is mostly hardwood or should I let it be?

That'll help. I have a tight 4-row stack, but it's for 3 years out, so I don't worry about it so much. But you need to do what you can within reason to speed the process.

 

[04HemiRam2500]

Okay I will move them will it make a difference to do it now or after the holidays is that okay since it is cold outside.

Also, I will try to get ahead on wood but with all going on it will be tough. Is my plan of having the wood set for 16 months okay?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I have the englander 30 and I have learned the importance of having dryy wood. I finished my about 4 cords for next winter. The first two cords were done before Halloween and the second 2 were done before thanksgiving.

I wanted to know if one year is enough to dry the wood. Also, I have been doing alot of reading about stacking it. I have it four rows deep and covered with a tarp. Is this bad? Should I restack to have one really long row? Will this really make a difference?

Also, Is there a big difference for having the wood dried for two years compared to one???

I read only part of the posts. Some I thought were good, some fair and a couple poor. But here is my take on your questions.


Question #1. When you state you have 4 cord for next winter, are you talking about the winter that begins December of this year or next?

Question #2. Is one year enough to dry the wood? That depends upon what kind of wood it is and how it is handled after being cut. There are some tree types that you can cut and actually burn it in six months. But there are others, mainly the oaks, that need 3 years to be the best.

Question #3. Is there a difference? That is sort of like asking if the Pope is Catholic isn't it? There can be a tremendous difference indeed.


Moisture meters can help a few people but I've never owned one nor seen the need for one. Perhaps that is because we've always tried to burn good dry wood. For us, that means in the stack for 3 years or more.

We do all our cutting in the winter months then after snow melt we do all the splitting and then the stacking. It is extremely important to get the wood split and stacked as soon as possible. Also to stack the wood off the ground and outdoors; not in a wood shed. The time to put it into a wood shed is after it has dried outdoors. When stacking, remember that air circulation is the most important. Sun is good but wind is your friend. Many times we have stacked wood where it has got little or no sunshine. If you tend to get wind from the west, then stacking N/S will give you the best results.

On covering the wood. If you don't live in a really wet area, then we recommend you do not cover that wood pile until the following winter or late fall. Then it is time to cover the top of the wood pile. Never cover the sides or ends. Never.

Many claim that stacking the wood tight together will not allow the middle of the stack to dry. We've experimented with that but have not found that to be the case. Still, if I had only a year to dry the wood, I would stack in single rows. I would also stack the wood a bit loose rather than trying for a nice neat packed stack (remember air circulation). I would also split the wood rather small.

That being said, here is how we stack wood.

Notice under the wood are some saplings we cut in the woods. We cut them usually at 10' then stack the wood on them. Top cover usually around December 1. Please excuse that tired old man in the second picture. That last picture is wood we move to the barn in October and that is what we burn that winter.

 

[BobUrban]

There are a ton of variables in the mix here so no stack will dry as another depending on location, climate etc... I have all of my wood stacked 4 or more rows deep and get great results because of the location. I stack every species together EXCEPT oak. It stands alone and doesn't even get looked at for 2 years or more. Ash, Maple, cherry and other misc is good within 18 months, Better after 24 and beyond.

Perfect world would have single rows stacked in a windy desert - beyond that your mileage will vary and you will have to find your set up as you go. A MM will help but time is always your friend with seasoning.

To answer your original question: Much of your wood is likely to be ready to burn in 18 months if it is in the wind and top covered will help. Oak probably not. I say this because you are in PA and have a climate not unlike mine.

 

[04HemiRam2500]

Thanks Savage and Bob I would like to get ahead on wood but I only have 6 acres and will have to look where to by it. NIce pics all. I am talking about burning the wood for next winter starting october 2014.

I know everyone seems skeptical about the oak but the tree has been fallen and disconnected from the roots for two years before I cut it. I see it out there now and the wood looks old and ugly looking.

Also, this winter my wood is wet and I can not even close the air inlet any. I guess what I am asking is that if it is at least out and split for a year at least can I get the secondaries going?

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Yes, that will help. For this year, if possible, try to keep a little bit of wood in the house; maybe enough for 2-3 days. Spread it out if possible. It also sounds as if that oak will be okay. Being down, it will depend upon if it had been on the ground or elevated. The part that touches ground will turn to punk quite fast. The other will be ideal.

 

[04HemiRam2500]

Lats question is that when I stacked next years I did not put it on pallets like I did this years wood. Neighbor told me if it is out for a year no need to do it. However, will the wood on the ground get bed being there about the 12 to 13 months?

I will post a pic of the pile tomorrow if I get time.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

The wood most definitely needs to be stacked so that it is not touching the ground.

 

[04HemiRam2500]

Not to sound dumb but why will one year make it rot. For now on I am going to put it on pallets but for next years is there an issue?

 

[Bigfoot]

wood on dirt = lots of moisture

 

[Backwoods Savage]

For sure. Wood on the ground then it rains. Wood get wet. Wet wood rots. In addition, the most important factor in wood drying is missing; air circulation.

 

[BobUrban]

Probably will be fine as far as ROT is concerned over the next 12 months but the issue will be the bottom splits covered with dirt and if you don't get it up on a dry day it will be muddy. Also, the bottom stuff seems to never get dry so you end up tossing it on top of other stacks later. Another problem is in the event you arrive on some perfect wood and decide not to touch that pile for a 2nd yr or more you run into the original issue or the ever dreaded "re-stack or not" decision. Personally I would not touch it because restacking ranks up there with things like lighting yourself on fire. Suck up a few lost or muddy splits and try to keep all future wood off the ground.

 

[04HemiRam2500]

I am not going to restack everything. I though about just restacking the two middle rows. When I do that I was considering if I should put it up on pallets or not. Plus, restacking I do not think will take me more than a day?

 

[04HemiRam2500]

Also I meant to ask you savage. When you say to get three years ahead on wood that three year cycle I read on here alot. Do you mean three years in addition to that winter or is it including the winter?

 

[Brick (ware)House]

Anyone have the answer to this question?

What % of a split's BTU value is sacrificed by burning it at 1% higher moisture content?

In other words, assume that hypothetically a split at optimal moisture content of 20% provides 100 BTU of heat. How many BTU would it provide at 21%?

 

[04HemiRam2500]

That's a good question related to my thread be curious to see what the experts say.

 

[Brick (ware)House]

That's a good question related to my thread be curious to see what the experts say.

There are other considerations when it comes to higher moisture content, but as far as potential heat output the laws of physics should apply. More moisture = more BTUs required to vaporize H2O resulting in less available heat. The team at Woodstock performed a test burn using fresh cut cord wood (~36%) vs. well dried cord wood (~19%) and posted the results. http://blog.woodstove.com/2012/01/catalytic-combustors-wet-wood.html#more
Average surface temperatures during the wet and dry burns were reported at 307 F and 338 F respectively. This is about a 10% difference in average surface temperatures with a 17% difference in moisture content.

This may suggest that given a capable stove (EPA Cat) the reduced heat output from burning slightly higher moisture content fuel is not as significant as is widely believed. Agree or disagree?

 

[Sprinter]

Here's the deal on moisture. Moisture content is measured by weight. If a chunk of wood weighs 10 pounds and the MC is 20%, then there is 2 pounds of water in there that has to be vaporized. It takes one BTU to heat one pound of water one degree F, then 970 BTU more to vaporize it. So it would take over 2200 BTU to heat and vaporize those two pounds of water. A pound of oven dry wood gives around 8600 BTU. You can do the math for what ever variation you want from there.

So, not much difference between 20 and 21%. But it's not just the BTU's lost in converting the water, but at some point the secondaries won't be getting enough heat to keep burning the combustion products, so the efficiency suffers that way as well.

 

[BIGDADDY]

Don't be a re stacker!!

 

[paul bunion]

Here's the deal on moisture. Moisture content is measured by weight. If a chunk of wood weighs 10 pounds and the MC is 20%, then there is 2 pounds of water in there that has to be vaporized. It takes one BTU to heat one pound of water one degree F, then 970 BTU more to vaporize it. So it would take over 2200 BTU to heat and vaporize those two pounds of water. A pound of oven dry wood gives around 8600 BTU. You can do the math for what ever variation you want from there.

So, not much difference between 20 and 21%. But it's not just the BTU's lost in converting the water, but at some point the secondaries won't be getting enough heat to keep burning the combustion products, so the efficiency suffers that way as well.

Your example is correct if you meant that you have a 12 pound piece of 20% wood, 10 pounds is the actual oven dry wood and 2 pounds is water. (12-10)/10=20%. 10 pounds of 20% wood is really 8.33333 pounds of actual wood and 1.666667 pounds of water.

 

[Sprinter]

Your example is correct if you meant that you have a 12 pound piece of 20% wood, 10 pounds is the actual oven dry wood and 2 pounds is water. (12-10)/10=20%. 10 pounds of 20% wood is really 8.33333 pounds of actual wood and 1.666667 pounds of water.

You're right. It's based on dry weight. Thanks.

Sometimes wet basis is used, but dry basis seems to be the standard. I did notice that the 36 and 19% examples above were wet basis.

 

[Sully]

What are best types of wood to heat if you could only stack a year out.
I don't have the land to go 3 years two years is a bit tricky. If I were to concentrate on yearly what would you recommend?

 

[BIGDADDY]

The thing is the species which dry faster often burn faster, so you may need more wood to heat with. Remember pound per pound all wood creates the same btu's but 100 pounds of pine will take up more space then say 100 pounds of oak or another dense hardwood.
I would try to find dead hardwood. Small diameter locust, oak. That you can get split and stacked you might be able to burn it in 1 year. Cherry seasons quickly.
Good luck to you.

 

[04HemiRam2500]

I am in process of restacking. Since I split manually the splits turn out to be oddly shaped and in wedges. Is it necessary to stack like salvage does criss crossing or can I just stack them? If I can stack them do I stack them loosely but I thought to determine how many cords you have you want them tight no? Also, I am going to do two rows on a pallet with about 8 inches of space in the middle?

In the pics is the criss cross pattern just for the ends also is the two rows with air space good for my setup?

 

[BobUrban]

Those are Cribs - or "end Cribs" or many other not so technical stacking names and used to keep the ends up. A good technique to know and utilize but fence posts, trees, whatever holds a stack in place, etc.. work fine too.