Is this safe? Has it been done? Chimney from one room to another then out..

[ckdeuce]

Asked this before, but did not get any replies. So here it is with a picture. Stove is in the livingroom and I would like to run the black pipe into a wall thimble and take the triple wall through that wall and into another room in the house. Then I will install an elbow or cleanout T and run the pipe up throught the roof to the outside. Bacically running the chimney from one room into another and then out through the roof. Is this safe? I attempted to add a picture, hope it works....

 

[Corey]

Well, that is a good question. Surely someone with more knowledge than I will be along shortly. But, IMHO, as long as you maintained the proper clearances, fire stops, and pass throughs, I don't know why it couldn't be done. Putting a flue through a wall, ceiling and roof are all pretty standard set-ups with off the shelf hardware. Flues are sometimes run through a second story room, so that is basically starting in one room, into another then out.

Though, if you have the option, I'd think running out of the stove and straight up through the second story would be better. Straight shot is easier to clean, less flue exposed outside, better draft, looks like about the same length of pipe and a more conventional type install. The second choice would be straight up out of the stove near the ceiling in the first room, then over and up. This would give a little more 'floor' space in the bathroom and a little more heat from the exposed pipe in the main room.

 

[Slow1]

I believe I saw someone else with pictures where they did something that looks very much like this. So my guess is that it is safe. Now - I hope that picture is showing heat waves not smoke

 

[ckdeuce]

Now - I hope that picture is showing heat waves not smoke

It's actually the Fire Dept spraying water DOWN on the chimney fire..... (not pictured) Kidding..

 

[Brian VT]

Seems possible to me. Horizontal runs are best avoided, though.
If it's only for aesthetics then I wouldn't do it. Go straight up unless it's impossible (like mine).

 

[stejus]

This is possible. There's a post in this forum and he did exactly what you're intending to do. In his case, the ajoining room had an opening between the rooms.

 

[Pagey]

Check this out. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/23542/

 

[cmonSTART]

Ya. You should use a good listed wall pass through to get into the other room and once there it has to go into a stainless prefab chimney. Obviously it isn't the optimal choice.

 

[iceman]

you want to add some type of rise to your pic..... try to get that horizontal run angled up so you can get a better draft
how much area are you trying to heat???
after looking at the pic again ...if that is the back of your house just go out the wall on the side leave the bathroom alone...
and you might be a better pellet stove candidate honestly...

 

[DAKSY]

You can do that, but you will have to build a chase around the Class A in the bathroom.
Class A chimney has to be enclosed if it's in a living space.

 

[BrotherBart]

And don't hook the chimney to the bottom of the stove. :lol:

 

[ckdeuce]

you want to add some type of rise to your pic..... try to get that horizontal run angled up so you can get a better draft
how much area are you trying to heat???
after looking at the pic again ...if that is the back of your house just go out the wall on the side leave the bathroom alone...
and you might be a better pellet stove candidate honestly...

It's about a 3100 sq' Victorian built in 1892. We are set on either an Equinox or a Mansfield. Leaning toward the Mansfield. I can't go out the side.... To long to explain. I do plant to build a chase, and I might take the stove pipe out of the top (mansfiled) and go up a few feet before I go into the bathroom. That way I will only have to "box" in the elbo or T in the bathroom. I'm not to concerned about taking up space as it is a rather lareg bathroom. Thanks for all the great advice!!

 

[Slow1]

And don't hook the chimney to the bottom of the stove. :lol:

You mean the OAK and flue aren't interchangeable?

 

[Brian VT]

Class A chimney has to be enclosed if it's in a living space.

Class A needs a chase but single-wall or uninsulated interior double-wall doesn't ?
Makes no sense to me. Must be one of those mindless gubment things ?

 

[ckdeuce]

Class A chimney has to be enclosed if it's in a living space.

Class A needs a chase but single-wall or uninsulated interior double-wall doesn't ?
Makes no sense to me. Must be one of those mindless gubment things ?

My guess is that if it is not insulated..... It's toooo hot to put in a chase. Unless your chase is made os steel! But I get your point VT.

 

[Slow1]

Class A chimney has to be enclosed if it's in a living space.

Class A needs a chase but single-wall or uninsulated interior double-wall doesn't ?
Makes no sense to me. Must be one of those mindless gubment things ?

Then add to it the fact that if you stick it outside it doesn't need a chase! Hmm... now what could possibly be the point? I'd love to hear someone "in the know" toss out the logic. About the only thing I can possibly imagine is that if you have that ClassA running through an interior perhaps you would be more tempted to lay things against it and/or hang things on it (nice towel warmer eh?) than if it is outside... it's warm but not too warm, right? Thus maybe the concern is that people won't respect the 2" clearance inside. However, it is rather hard not to respect the clearances on connector pipe and those are short runs in sight of the stove as well.

 

[dougand3]

Looks like it will be more expensive as pictured...~ 8 ft more of Class A? Class A elbows in Bathroom? Class A weight having to be supported in bathroom? To me, this install says straight up with a chase in 2nd floor room. I'd think you could put vents in chase and re-claim a lttle warmth in that upper room (don't know if this is a code breaker, tho)

 

[Backwoods Savage]

ckdeuce, I have seen this done in several homes. Mostly they have tended to put some rise before an elbow to go through the wall, which made no sense to me. The most extreme I ever saw was single wall pipe running in 3 rooms before going up through the ceiling. It seemed to work for them as they told me they had it that way for over 20 years at the time (this was back around 1975).

If you decide to go this route, be sure to put 1/4" rise per foot of horizontal pipe. We actually ran greater than 1/4" in our horizontal which runs straight through the wall from the stove to the outside SS chimney.

 

[madison]

As pagey posted earlier, we did it in our place, see link below in sig.

Class A is required to transition the wall thimble. Then class A from that point on until chimney cap, you cannot transition back to single or dbl wall pipe once you have made the switch to class A.

Regarding enclosing the class A in a chase, our building inspector and installer both agreed that the class A only needs to be enclosed if it is within a living area and could be accidently "touched" . Where ours transitions into the second room is ~ 6 feet off the floor, and therefor did not need to be enclosed per inspector and installer. We think it looks cool and were hoping not to box it in.

I will update the pics soon as both the stove room and the sun room that the stove pipe passes thru will soon be painted and we are going to have the Class A painted with high temp black. Should be cool.

 

[ckdeuce]

As pagey posted earlier, we did it in our place, see link below in sig.

Class A is required to transition the wall thimble. Then class A from that point on until chimney cap, you cannot transition back to single or dbl wall pipe once you have made the switch to class A.

Regarding enclosing the class A in a chase, our building inspector and installer both agreed that the class A only needs to be enclosed if it is within a living area and could be accidently "touched" . Where ours transitions into the second room is ~ 6 feet off the floor, and therefor did not need to be enclosed per inspector and installer. We think it looks cool and were hoping not to box it in.

I will update the pics soon as both the stove room and the sun room that the stove pipe passes thru will soon be painted and we are going to have the Class A painted with high temp black. Should be cool.

Looks cool now! Thanks! I plwn to go up off of the stove 6' instead of using the back output. It will then go through the wall and will only be by the ceiling of the bathroom 6'up. I don't mind boxing it it, but leaving it exposed will help heat the bathroom.... We will see what the installer has to say. I will follow up in about a week when it gets installed. Still can't decide on the Mansfield or the Equinox though....... Thanks everyone! Chris

 

[madison]

You will not get much heat off the class A it is warm to the touch but not scorching hot, and if it is passing thru a bathroom, you may need to enclose it (2" clearance within enclosure etc) depending on the ceiling height and the pieces used to make the turn to go up thru the ceiling. I would read the instructions/websites that are provided by the chimney mfg's to inform yourself of clearances to ceilings/walls etc.

Your stove choice as well may determine if this is possible because of it's clearances, dimensions, flue gas exit position etc. To pull off what we did basically limited the stove choice to the PE, which worked out for us in the end.