Isle Royale - Difficult to control the burn.

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I would also hold the installer accountable until the stove runs proper, but there is no denying that proper starting procedures are not being followed, and that the stove was installed with a stack almost twice as high as the stove was tested for. The OP can choose to address these issues or not - his/her call. It really is that simple.

And I would also confirm that all mechanics are working proper and that the stove gaskets and joints are proper fit and solid.
 
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But the manual doesn't say, "It is not recommended to install this stove in applications where the chimney's height will be greater then 14 feet"

Are you happy now Jatoxico?

Also, how somebody starts a fire, unless using accelerants, has no affect on whether there are overfires.

Lets not forget, it's easy for you to be picky about grammar but it's not your combustible wall that is reaching 175 degrees.

Do you work for QuadraFire?
 
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You're correct, opening the door at startup is a non issue and is done by many. A stove should operate correctly and safely with a properly installed 27' chimney. As a matter of fact, many advise you to open the door in a overfire situation to cool the stove. Be nice to the mechanic that comes out tomorrow and try to figure out the problem. I've always wondered why these new stoves don't have an "off" switch to cut all air off in an overfire situation. Must be an EPA thing....
 
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But the manual doesn't say, "It is not recommended to install this stove in a two story house."
No - but it clearly states the length of flue it was tested with.


Also, how somebody starts a fire, unless using accelerants, has no affect on whether there are overfires.

You're correct, opening the door at startup is a non issue and is done by many.

I am sorry - but tell me again how long you guys have owned an Isle Royale?
 
Just when I think I'm out...they pull me back in.


But the manual doesn't say, "It is not recommended to install this stove in a two story house."

I'm curious what house does the manual say you can install in, ranch, center hall colonial, prairie style?

Also, how somebody starts a fire, unless using accelerants, has no affect on whether there are overfires.

You're correct, opening the door at startup is a non issue and is done by many.

In fact it can as was already explained. Each install is different. In the case where a stove install is within or on the lower end of draft spec opening the door can be useful to heat the flue to promote draft (my own unit sometimes needs a push other days it takes right off, learning curve). When draft is already strong, heating the flue by opening the door can cause it to reach a higher temp than it would otherwise attain exacerbating the problem. In that case by keeping the door closed and using the stoves air controls the operator has a better chance of maintaining control.

As I said, the OP may in fact have an issue but the stove is installed outside of spec. This forum is a great resource for people who want to learn how to run their stoves solve problems or improve stove performance because of the collective experience of some very knowledgeable people. But if the feeling is that there is nothing to learn and all suggestions can be dismissed out of hand because they are merit-less then there are other avenues better suited for complaints like the BBB.
 
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You're correct, opening the door at startup is a non issue and is done by many. A stove should operate correctly and safely with a properly installed 27' chimney.

I'm sorry, now you're just circulating bad information and cherry picking. How many users open the door at start-up with the primary air and start-up air controls completely closed? And then close the doors and hope and pray that the temps settle out safely because there are no air controls to adjust at that point?

It's like driving a sports car with the accelerator to the floor while riding the brake, off-road, and the driver's eyes closed, but blaming the sports car. Maybe there's something wrong with the sports car but that's not what the evidence shows so far.

You said: "A stove should operate correctly and safely with a properly installed 27' chimney."

The manual specifically states that the further your chimney varies from 12 to 14 feet, the possibility of performance problems exists. What part of this is confusing for you?

I've operated this stove for 6 years with two different tall chimneys. I used a damper with the tallest one. Jags has operated his stove over a decade if I recall correctly. If you have your mind made up, why bother asking for help?

By all means, put the dealer's feet to the fire if you were advised not to use the start-up air or primary air or that this chimney wouldn't pose any challenges. But if you want to blame the stove itself, you better come with more ammo. Only blanks so far.
 
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I'm sorry, now you're just circulating bad information and cherry picking. How many users open the door at start-up with the primary air and start-up air controls completely closed? And then close the doors and hope and pray that the temps settle out safely because there are no air controls to adjust at that point?

It's like driving a sports car with the accelerator to the floor while riding the brake, off-road, and the driver's eyes closed, but blaming the sports car. Maybe there's something wrong with the sports car but that's not what the evidence shows so far.

You said: "A stove should operate correctly and safely with a properly installed 27' chimney."

The manual specifically states that the further your chimney varies from 12 to 14 feet, the possibility of performance problems exists. What part of this is confusing for you?

I've operated this stove for 6 years with two different tall chimneys. I used a damper with the tallest one. Jags has operated his stove over a decade if I recall correctly. If you have your mind made up, why bother asking for help?

By all means, put the dealer's feet to the fire if you were advised not to use the start-up air or primary air or that this chimney wouldn't pose any challenges. But if you want to blame the stove itself, you better come with more ammo. Only blanks so far.

I really thought the subject matter was overfiring.
I guess it should not be sold to anyone who will have a chimney over 14 feet then. And if that is the truth then that is fine but don't sell it to me because I need to have taller chimney. Have a good day.
 
Sounds like someone would rather complain than learn and be helped.
 
I really thought the subject matter was overfiring.
I guess it should not be sold to anyone who will have a chimney over 14 feet then. And if that is the truth then that is fine but don't sell it to me because I need to have taller chimney. Have a good day.

I really don't want to pile on or be snide (OK maybe I do but I won't). There is a very good chance that what you NEED is a key damper. If the stove checks out OK as far as leaks, you should really reconsider your position and not dig your heels in. An over firing stove is nothing to be fooled around with.
 
Can't think of one piece of advice given in 3 pages that was listened to and considered. At least Chadihman was methodical at finding the problem. A closed mind is a closed case. Don't let the door hit ya on the way out...
 
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