jotul 602 stovepipe

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stovepipe?

New Member
Dec 1, 2005
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I'm just in the process of installing a jotul 602. the flu outlet on the top of the stove is much smaller than I expected-- roughly 4.5 inches. It comes with an adaptor for 6 inch pipe. but draft is limited by the smallest diameter in the run, right? So is there any reason I can't use 5 inch pipe instead? The chimney is 6 inch duravent, so I'd need to find an adaptor for that interface. The only reason to use 5 is aesthetic (smaller pipe looks nicer with small stove). if it effects draft at all, I won't do it.

is the size of the outlet on the 602 specific to the 602? or is there a diameter pipe sold someplace that matches the outlet size on the stove?

incidentally, the best would probably be 5 inch double wall. the 6 inch stuff just looks too bulky with the little stove. but the double wall would improve my draft, and the space is small, so I don't need that extra heat off the pipe. does 5 inch double wall exist?

thanks
 
Jotul doesn't aprove anything other than a 6" stovepipe. Remember, the stack functions independantly of the stove. There is a difference between a 5" restrictor at one position in the flue as opposed to the entire flue being 5" diameter. For the same mass flow, the velocity in the entire 5" pipe would have to be higher than in a 6" pipe. Since the only thing that creates motion is the relative density of the flue gas as opposed to the surounding air, if the stove was designed for a 6" flue that is what you should use.

Are you sure there is any point in using double wall pipe ? The stove's clearances aren't very small to begin with and you would need an awful amount of heat shielding to reduce it enough to get the stove pipe within 6" of anything combustible. How close do you intend to install it to combustibles ?
 
You could certainly use 5" pipe with that stove since the flue outlet is metric - but 5" pipe in double wall is almost impossible to find - hence the adapter to 6".

Keith, the stove is sold and used with the metric flue (4.7 approx) in Europe and elsewhere in the world....therefore, I assume it is the other way around - it is designed for the metric, but adapted in the USA since 5" flues are uncommon here.
 
Since the code and certifying bodies are dfferent here in the US, one would need in many cases to use what is recommended in order to get the inspector to sign off and get insurance coverage. Based on the work I do, I would have no problem getting any diameter stainless pipe 6" and below in 12ft lengths, but what good is that if I can't show that it is UL listed ? I can also size up or down the ends to fit whatever interface I need, but again, that doesn't get me anywhere unless my inspector accepts it.

I have read the "permit or not" thread, but after my last insurance "incident" which took 6 months to settle and occurred between closing and taking posession (isn't that great?) I will be making sure I provide the insurance co with no ammunition again. You know how it is: By the time you close everyone has shaken you down, about a half dozen unexpected bills have popped up, not to mention you have scrounged every $ you possess for the downpayment and for the lawyers, and then you find yourself walking on OSB for 3 months after all the carpets have to get ripped out and 1/3 of the drywall torn off after the former owner "inadvertently" floods the house because he didn't notice that the washer faucet wasn't shut off properly. Not to mention that he waits 3 days before handing over the keys so that we can get our grand intro to our "new house"....
 
Ah, I guess why that explains why moving is on the list of the top stress creators!

As far as the stove, the general rule is to not go smaller than the outlet. They are providing an adapter to match the most common USA pipe. If for some reason (usually relining a chimney) a person needed to go with 5" all the way, it would be likely they could get a fax or email from the manufacturer explaining this (if OK)......NFPA allows for this also.

Some stuff is common sense.....like including various lengths of screws in something depending on how or what it is being installed. In the case of older 602s, the adapter was not even provided for many years and we had to either make them or buy them from various sources. They had adapters to 5" and to 6".

My advice is neither confirmed by insurance companies nor the manufacturers - it is simply my experience in the field with these particular models and situations.
 
Oh, I think Heat-fab makes 5" heavy duty pipe, and so does Elmers pipe - but Elmers is likely to also have the adapter or be able to make it (metric to 5").

See enclosed - looks like elmer has the adapter....to 5" from 125mm
 

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Couple of items. My F100 came with a five inch outlet in the top with an increaser included for six inch also. Little sucker drafts like crazy into a 5.5" flex pipe. Also has anybody ever seen an inspector pull out a tape and measure the circumference of a stove pipe and then convert it to diameter. I don't thing so.

And with a little stove a six inch pipe looks like you hooked a city storm drain to the top of it, in perspective. It dwarfs the stove and a five inch pipe just looks like it belongs there and looks like the six inchers on larger stoves.
 
BrotherBart said:
Couple of items. My F100 came with a five inch outlet in the top with an increaser included for six inch also. Little sucker drafts like crazy into a 5.5" flex pipe. Also has anybody ever seen an inspector pull out a tape and measure the circumference of a stove pipe and then convert it to diameter. I don't thing so.

And with a little stove a six inch pipe looks like you hooked a city storm drain to the top of it, in perspective. It dwarfs the stove and a five inch pipe just looks like it belongs there and looks like the six inches on larger stoves.

This inspector knows the circumference of a circle is Diameter x Pi or 3.14 a quick guess would be 5X3.14 would be around 15.5" just quickly guesing than taking a tape I can confirm it if it falls close enough I know the circumference Naturally the area is 3.14 Sq X 2.5 without a lot of math probably around 18" Or any inspector does not need a to be a mathematician
Most mechanical code books have conversion tables. and area tables in the back of the book
 
elkimmeg said:
BrotherBart said:
Couple of items. My F100 came with a five inch outlet in the top with an increaser included for six inch also. Little sucker drafts like crazy into a 5.5" flex pipe. Also has anybody ever seen an inspector pull out a tape and measure the circumference of a stove pipe and then convert it to diameter. I don't thing so.

And with a little stove a six inch pipe looks like you hooked a city storm drain to the top of it, in perspective. It dwarfs the stove and a five inch pipe just looks like it belongs there and looks like the six inches on larger stoves.

This inspector knows the circumference of a circle is Diameter x Pi or 3.14 a quick guess would be 5X3.14 would be around 15.5" just quickly guesing than taking a tape I can confirm it if it falls close enough I know the circumference Naturally the area is 3.14 Sq X 2.5 without a lot of math probably around 18" Or any inspector does not need a to be a mathematician
Most mechanical code books have conversion tables. and area tables in the back of the book

Yet another reason I don't live in Massachusetts. Guy coming in to inspect your install in a black hat and shades with a tape measure singing Soul Man and mumbling about The Penguin and being on a Mission.
 
I am looking for a 602 manual so that I can give it to my contractor. We are trying to install the old 602 in a remodel. What are the clearence rules for a wood wall.
 
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