Kent Wood Stove

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vikinghb

New Member
Nov 1, 2011
4
SW Ontario
Anyone have any info on Kent stoves? I found one at a great price to put into my basement.
According to the seller it's 8 years old. I don't have a pic.
 
It's a fine, older stove. Do a search in the box above. There are several threads on this stove including an excellent review by precaud.
 
Precaud was also nice enough to find and upload the manual, so you can check clearances. Damn good stove in my opinion. How much?
 
agartner said:
Precaud was also nice enough to find and upload the manual, so you can check clearances. Damn good stove in my opinion. How much?

He wants $150 and includes 2 heat shields, and a piece of ss pipe with top (which I don't need).
 
BeGreen said:

Thanks for finding this for me. This might be another thread, but do you know why they don't use ceramic board either in a stove to prevent warping. I've read some of it is rated at 2300 degrees. I read on this site where a fellow wood burners stove warped on the bottom. I use this ceramic board in my arch (stove) for boiling maple syrup, and the sides to the arch are almost touchable with your hand. It's not cheap though.
 
Ceramic board is used often in newer stoves. TileFire just never used it in theirs. They also don't have secondary air burn tubes either. Its a design that predates stoves built to EPA emissions regulations, but a lot of the elements of the TF design are used in current stove design.

Both Precaud and I did go and line the floor, back and the sidewalls of our Kent's (He's got a Tile Fire, I a Sherwood) with firebrick. Precaud used some funky lightweight stuff (cuz that's just how he rolls...), I just used the plain old firebrick that you can get from any stove shop. This will help your stove's performance considerably, and will keep the floor from warping. You do lose some cubic footage, but it's not really a problem. That being said, I burned my Kent for many years without the firebrick and my stove floor never warped. The construction on the Kent is fairly beefy.
 
This is why I love this forum. People from all over helping each other.
 
viking, that's a heckuva price. The most important thing is to make sure the baffle isn't warped. Inspect it inside the firebox and make sure the welds all along the baffle are good. Check the operation of the bypass "puck" and make sure it opens and closes all the way. If those things are ok, it's a winner. Any other problems are easily fixable.
 
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