Liner pre-install questions. (pics)

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Loco Gringo

Feeling the Heat
Jan 17, 2011
416
Western North Carolina
So my 6 inch liner is in transit. But if you look at this pick of my existing exterior fireplace youll see that smack dab in the middle are 2 pieces of hardware left behind my the damper that I removed. They are 15 inches from where the top of my Buck 21 will sit. So Im wondering if I will be able to dog leg over around these things and still be able to come back to center to tie in to the stove? I just dont kmow how flexable these things really are. I like things perfect btw.

I also will have practically no top clearance to work with, maybe 2 inches, but I can get my arms in through the sides between the stove and the sides of the fireplace. Yet Im wondering now whether or not that will be enough room for me to make my connection to the top of my stove and seal the connection. I can order 3 inch legs from my local dealer but would rather not if I dont have to. Thanks fellas, esp BrotherBart who helped me through this entire experience.
 
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Time to cut that damper frame out of there. At least a hole in it ten or more inches wide. Everybody swears by using a Sawzall for the job but I tried it and swore at it, not by it. Ended up going and grabbing a hacksaw and a few minutes later it was done.

If anybody ever wants to turn it back into a open fireplace they put a chimney top damper on it for around a hundred and fifty and have a damper that is many times better than the thing that is in there.
 
BrotherBart said:
Time to cut that damper frame out of there. At least a hole in it ten or more inches wide. Everybody swears by using a Sawzall for the job but I tried it and swore at it, not by it. Ended up going and grabbing a hacksaw and a few minutes later it was done.

If anybody ever wants to turn it back into a open fireplace they put a chimney top damper on it for around a hundred and fifty and have a damper that is many times better than the thing that is in there.

Ah your words of infinite wisdom shine down once again Bart. Being a sweaty redneck I too thought that the cost of a sparkling new blade on my 20 yr old hacksaw would do the job faster than if were to search out a loaner saws all. I hope great things happen for you and yours for all youve done for me and mine.
 
I started with a sawzall but then switched to a dewalt grinder with a metal cutting disk. 10 times faster and it did not shake the 5hit out of everything and knock down more dust!

But yea, cut it! If you are using a flex line, it will flex but not a whole hell of alot! The more space the merrier....
 
Thanks PLAYS WITH FIRE. I do need all the room I can get. Whata yall thing about my free space I have to work with?
 
I can't really see the demension of the opening but I will say this! If you have a hard time connecting the pipe and collar to the stove. Connect the collar to the pipe but pre fit it to the stove. I confused myself!

Before you push stove into the fireplace, Put the collar on and use the self tappers Buck gives you to connect the collar. Then take the self tappers out and fasten the collar to the flex pipe. Now here is the pain in the but part!

Once you have the stove in and the liner is sort of lined up. You can do you final connections from inside the stove. So the self tapper heads will be in the pipe not on the outside. Does this make sense?
If not I will pm you my number! I thought this was how I would have to do mine but I was able to get may arms thorugh the stove top area. You will have to remove some of the burn tubes but this is not a problem.
 
I would get the shorter legs. The hot air from the top plate is not going to have anyplace to go that close to the block-off plate. There needs to be room for convection to set up pulling air underneath the stove and rolling it out on top out into the room. And that block-off plate would get way too hot that close to the stove top.
 
^^^^^^This sounds like an even more better idea!
 
I started with a hacksaw, went to the sawzaw, and after getting covered with dirt, went to the grinder with the disk. Should have started with the grinder.
 
I install fireplaces and inserts for a living and the grinder works best for me. I normally cut an 8 to 10 inch long gap out of the back of the center of the damper which is usually pretty easy since its only a few inches wide in the back. Liner should fit with a little room to spare
 
Fireplacedude said:
I install fireplaces and inserts for a living and the grinder works best for me. I normally cut an 8 to 10 inch long gap out of the back of the center of the damper which is usually pretty easy since its only a few inches wide in the back. Liner should fit with a little room to spare

Hey 1st post and you've already contributed! Welcome to the forum I can see you'll fit right in!

Ray
 
Youre damn right ray. I too tried to help before I asked for any for myself. I dont like taking without giving something back. I think Ive located a small angle grinder with a cutting blade. But the opening is still only 6 inches after I make the cuts so I may have to oval it a little bit.

And as far as the stove top to block off plate issue is concerned Ill either remove them and sit it on 4 bricks and gain 7.5 inches or cut the legs short giving me another 3 inches, which I dont wanna do but I like the look of legs on a free standing. The 3 inchers are 149 and theres no way Im paying that for 4 legs.

Second question.....with the block off installed at the top plate installed will heat coming off of the stainless liner within that enclosed space not cause some sort of hazard? I mean heck, thats a lot of heat being generated within an enclosed space. Or am I just being a worry wart?
 
PLAYS WITH FIRE said:
I can't really see the demension of the opening but I will say this! If you have a hard time connecting the pipe and collar to the stove. Connect the collar to the pipe but pre fit it to the stove. I confused myself!

Before you push stove into the fireplace, Put the collar on and use the self tappers Buck gives you to connect the collar. Then take the self tappers out and fasten the collar to the flex pipe. Now here is the pain in the but part!

Once you have the stove in and the liner is sort of lined up. You can do you final connections from inside the stove. So the self tapper heads will be in the pipe not on the outside. Does this make sense?
If not I will pm you my number! I thought this was how I would have to do mine but I was able to get may arms thorugh the stove top area. You will have to remove some of the burn tubes but this is not a problem.

Ill be honest PWF, I am a little confused. Is the collar youre talking about the piece thats already placed tightly in the flange on top? Here is what I have sitting here.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/hsh/2211281484.html
 
BrotherBart said:
Time to cut that damper frame out of there. .

But bart I pulled it out the other day. Does the side at the bottom of the image have the potential to be cut back? It felt like brick right behind it. Ill look again in a few minutes.
 
No, my setup has 4 pieces: (1) the collar or adapeter from stove top, (2) the flex pipe, (3) the chimney top plate, (4) the cap or hood or the very top thing.. From bottom to top in that order. These pieces did not come from buck. But I know what your thinking!

My flex pipe would not fit in or around the collar that is fixed to stove top. My dealer knew this and ordred all appropiate parts.

Here is picture of collar I am talking about. This one is installed wrong from the looks of it

Hold on...............................

Crap I can't post picture.
 
You were right bart, I took a grinder and cut out the clip on the one side and notched out the damper side, and now I have a straight shot from stove connection to chimney top plate now. But I bet I have an 8 ball of soot in my nose now. You shoulda seen me when I was done. I had to go straight outside and clean up. But it was so worth it now that I see what Ive got.
 
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