Liner question

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chance04

Burning Hunk
Nov 22, 2014
192
Eastern Shore MD
We have about an 18 foot exterior block chimney with 7"clay pipe going through it. We just got our new Woodstock IS and I'm concerned that with the 90 degree to go from the stove through the thimble I'll reduce draft enough to have issues. I don't have enough hearth to use 2 forty five elbows, so I have been looking at the possibility of lining. The chimney has an exterior clean out door that I would like to retain. My question is, is there an insulated 6" liner that will fit in 7x7 clay, and should I keep the clean out functional, or run a 90 from the thimble up to guarantee a decent draft. Or is there something totally different I should be looking at like a single wall liner and some sort of loose insulation around the pipe?

Any input is appreciated

Tony
 
Sounds like if woodstock is alright with using a 5.5 inch liner, that's going to be the way you'll need to go with a pour down insulation if you don't want to have a certified sweep in the area knock out the tiles and gain you some room.

What's the condition of the chimney? What shape are the tiles in? If the chimney isn't perfectly safe as it stands now, the tiles really should be removed and a properly insulated liner installed. Pour down insulation isn't going to give a very even insulation blanket around that liner, which is what's needed if the chimney is at all compromised.

As for the 90, I think I'd just run with it and see how things go once you get your chimney in order. If there's a problem, then perhaps consider updating the hearth,,, or perhaps you can extend the top of the chimney and make it a few feet taller if needed?

pen
 
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Sounds like if woodstock is alright with using a 5.5 inch liner, that's going to be the way you'll need to go with a pour down insulation if you don't want to have a certified sweep in the area knock out the tiles and gain you some room.

What's the condition of the chimney? What shape are the tiles in? If the chimney isn't perfectly safe as it stands now, the tiles really should be removed and a properly insulated liner installed. Pour down insulation isn't going to give a very even insulation blanket around that liner, which is what's needed if the chimney is at all compromised.

As for the 90, I think I'd just run with it and see how things go once you get your chimney in order. If there's a problem, then perhaps consider updating the hearth,,, or perhaps you can extend the top of the chimney and make it a few feet taller if needed?

pen
Tiles are on good shape, I need to redo the mortar on top of the very top block where the flue continues up. Other than that I just wanted to make sure I pull enough draft, and was worried with the height and being sized a tad too big. The tiles measure 7x7 inside and 9x9 outside. I considered adding another section of flue and some more blocks but I'm worried about structural support. The chimney is already about 6 foot above the roof line and i don't want that thing breaking off and falling on the roof on a bad storm
 
You might want to look at DuraLiner. It is preinsulated and 6 5/8" OD.
 
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DuraLiner is rigid. The sections pop-rivet together with stainless rivets. They have a complete product line that includes, tees, ovals, etc..

If you want to keep the cleanout door as a cleanout then you will need to extend the pipe from the bottom of the tee to the top of the cleanout opening and then cap the pipe there.
 
You might want to look at DuraLiner. It is preinsulated and 6 5/8" OD.

I'll be extremely impressed if that were to actually make it to the bottom if it's only a 7 inch diameter tile liner. Would have to be awful darn straight.
 
I'll be extremely impressed if that were to actually make it to the bottom if it's only a 7 inch diameter tile liner. Would have to be awful darn straight.
that is the issue i have had with all rigid liners. Chimneys are never straight it doesn't take much offset to keep a rigid liner from going in
 
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I can't offer advice on liners but the masonry clean out doors usually leak a good deal which reduces draft. Perhaps create a tighter fit using masking tape with a light coat of oil on one side and silicone caulking on the other. Remove the tape after its cured. GE 50 year clear silicone is one of the best easy to find products on the market IMO.
 
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