Looking for suggestions for a small fireplace replacing a prefab.

[begreen]

Given the age of the old FP I'm not sure option 1) is viable. Option 2 is going to give you the most long term satisfaction and safety. But, you might have an option 3. That would be to pull the old FP, install new class A pipe in the chase and then put a nice freestanding, rear exit stove on the hearth connected with a short run of double-wall pipe. The current hearth would need an extension for ember protection at the floor level. A Woodstock Progress Hybrid might look nice there.

 

[sawback]

I have a freestanding Lopi Answer in a fireplace opening 33"W x 31" high. It looks great nestled in there flush with the front of the firebox. It has a blower on it, and the firebox has a jacketed construction for the air to pass through so I don't lose a lot of heat to the sides.

It would be a shame to lose such a nice looking hearth. I would encourage you to just put a freestanding firebox in there.

DBoon, so are you one of those folks putting a Lopi Insert (Lopi ONLY makes inserts don't they?) into a prefab? Maybe you could comment on your success. To what degree do you need to dismantle the prefab?

 

[sawback]

... But, you might have an option 3. That would be to pull the old FP, install new class A pipe in the chase and then put a nice freestanding, rear exit stove on the hearth connected with a short run of double-wall pipe. The current hearth would need an extension for ember protection at the floor level...

I've considered that -- several of the old mountain huts in the Canadian Rockies have this kind of approach albeit retrofitted into a masonry chimney. Wouldn't I need to do a fair bit in terms of removing combustibles from around the inside of the chimney chase? Added to that the effort of extending the hearth in an already fairly small living room, plus the end result looking a bit hack has made me reluctant. I'll consider it though! Thanks for adding another option to an already complicated decision

As for Option 1, I am siding with the Overkill approach. Put in the extra time and money and do it right.

And now another question, am I crazy for thinking of trying to do this on my own? Or with research, coaching and time will I end up with something I'll be happy with? I'm pretty handy in general but my only experience with fire previously has been the odd bush camp stove and helping install a sauna stove & chimney at the Burnie Glacier Chalet near Smithers -- a massive firebox in a tiny cedar lined sauna that reaches 130C (266F) if you're not careful!

 

[ScotO]

I'm installing the Napoleon NZ3000 in my living room remodel myself. Yes, you CAN do it if you have the patience and if you diligently follow the local AND manufacturers codes. I went overboard (go figure) on all my clearances, just to be sure that in the event of a problem or something, I have more room for clearances than required by code. Do your research, take your time, and the guys on here are glad to help out in any way they can!

 

[FyreBug]

Buyers looking to get a wood appliance often make the mistake of focusing on the cost of the unit only. Depending on you goals the following will affect the overall cost.

1 size of chimney. The bigger the more expensive. Many high efficiency units vent on 6" nowadays. The brand of chimney will also affect your project cost

2 what is your heating goals? If you want to maximize your heating dollar look for a unit that provides gravity feed outlet and " heat dump " blowers to redirect some of the heat to other area of the house.

3 EPA certified units will sometimes be more expensive but will provide a better investment over the long run.

These are generic advice to take into consideration the cost of the entire project.

 

[sawback]

... what is your heating goals? If you want to maximize your heating dollar look for a unit that provides gravity feed outlet and " heat dump " blowers to redirect some of the heat to other area of the house.

My goal for the fireplace is to heat the main floor (about 1000ft2) of our two-floor house. Our main heating source is currently hydronic (panel radiators) from a boiler. The hearth is located in the living/kitchen area. The bedrooms are separated from the hearth by the entry way and a hallway. I'm not sure how much heat they would get from the fireplace without some kind of creative solution, but we are also happy to open doors and have much cooler temps there. And there's the panel radiators if things get too cold.

Half of the lower floor (raised basement) is a guest room/office space (used only occasionally, it has an old Kent wood stove for heating); the other half, which is completely isolated from the rest of the house, is an apartment and heated with panel radiators only (no fire heat in the plans).

I would consider putting a heat exchanger coil in the fireplace to help with the hydronic heating but that would involve adding a hot water tank and probably be more hassle than it's worth.

 

[FyreBug]

I would consider putting a heat exchanger coil in the fireplace to help with the hydronic heating but that would involve adding a hot water tank and probably be more hassle than it's worth.

Can't do that.

 

[sawback]

Can't do that.

http://thermacoil.com ?

 

[FyreBug]

http://thermacoil.com ?

Nope.... Punch a hole in any unit and you void your warranty and almost certainly affect the way your unit performs. Not to mention any safety issues

 

[Lburg]

I have a prefab fireplace and I installed a Regency I2400 insert inside the prefab fireplace. I also installed a 6" chimney liner. I contacted the manufacture of my prefab fireplace (Lennox) and they told me I could install an insert. I contacted Regency also and they said it was fine. I did most of the work and the total cost was $2,800 plus I got a $1,000 tax credit. My electric bill was set up on a budget and it went from $350 per month to $250 per month and the house is much warmer.

 

[ScotO]

Nope.... Punch a hole in any unit and you void your warranty and almost certainly affect the way your unit performs. Not to mention any safety issues

As for the "warranties" on most of these stoves, they really don't do much good unless something catastrophic happens to your stove. With my local dealer, you might as well wipe your a$$ with that warranty (I have a Napoleon, and my biggest gripe with that company is there is no customer support whatsoever. you HAVE to go through your dealer). I would definately be very careful about installing one of those water coils, but I am considering doing just that in my Napoleon 1900p. Making a loop from my hot water tank, to a reserve hot water tank which will serve as the main tank for the coils in the stove......But like Fyrebug said, be very cautious on installing such a device. Know what you are doing 110% before attempting it.

 

[FyreBug]

Sorry to be disagreeable, but the moment you punch a hole in a firebox it automatically ceases to be EPA certified and I'm pretty sure your UL safety certification is also terminated. Try explaining that to the insurance company if the house burns down.

Not to mention you are probably affecting the combustion dynamics for the worse.

It's not worth it

 

[ScotO]

I've also seen those exchangers attached on the outside of the stove firebox. That would work, and would also keep the EPA certification, wouldn't it?

 

[FyreBug]

I've also seen those exchangers attached on the outside of the stove firebox. That would work, and would also keep the EPA certification, wouldn't it?

Correct as long as you don't compromise the integrity of the firebox.

 

[ScotO]

Correct as long as you don't compromise the integrity of the firebox.

That's the route I'll be taking, Fyrebug. I wasn't worried about voiding my warranty, I already did that when I modified the trivet! But I do NOT want to void the UL listing on the appliance......

 

[Lighting Up]

Here's a thought for you...Avalon Pendleton w/blower sells a insert for ZC stoves my Avatar picture shows mine. What's nice about them is you can buy legs for them and make it a free standing stove. I to have your dilemma with cost and brick work so I went the insert way. My ZC stove was only 8 years old and I watched it being installed in the my new house so I knew what I had and what I had in the case for a chimney.

Anyway one of my reason ( I have to many to list) was to buy the Avalon insert and say in 10 -20 years if I want to change it down the road I can still keep the insert for the basement (like your repacement for your basement stove).

Also keep in mind these inserts have small boxes and the wood HAS to be cut to fit in, you will be attending the stove more then what you have been doing but you won't be using more wood..the heat will warm that first floor like nothing else. I also can't stress enough to have it inspected to make sure your ZC stove is compatable with ZC INSERTS safety first...safety is a must...good luck, hope this helps you.

 

[sawback]

Thanks for all the great tips... I'll post back here when I've made a decision on what to do.
Tom