My Lyden pellet stove (bought new from authorized dealer circa. September 2010, so under warranty) failed for the first time last Tuesday. Essentially, the convection blower won't engage, so the start-up sequence shuts down after about 30 minutes. The dealer had me swap out the control board, but the new one didn't make any difference. My theory is that the convection fan is not burned out, because if I switch to "auto" on the control board when I'm initially in the start-up phase in manual mode (I tried this several times after the stove was quite hot, but the convection fan still hadn't started) - and I use manual mode exclusively - the convection blower would engage for about 2 seconds, and then shut off. So it seems like there may be an issue with some kind of thermastatic controller. Ideas? I've seen the term "snap disk" used in troubleshooting similar convection blower issues on this forum, but I'm not sure what that term means. I am meticulous about cleaning every element of this stove, and the flue as well, so I don't think it's anything that easy. I've got the stove plugged into a high quality UPS, so I've taken reasonable steps to keep the power equally clean. Although the dealer has promised a service call this coming Tuesday (maybe I'll sound ungrateful, but this is my sole source of heat, except for some resistance electric, and I'm feeling left out in the cold - literally - but it's fortunately not so cold), I was hoping for some other insights. Thanks!
Lopi Leyden convection blower inoperative
- Thread starter bigpoker
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If the convection blower comes on for even a few seconds, then you know that's not your problem. Sounds like the Proof of Fire switch is either bad, or you don't have a hot enough fire by the time the start-up sequence is finished, resulting in a shut-down.
I heard what you said about keeping the stove clean, but tell us, when was the last time the stove was taken apart? And I mean both blowers removed from the stove and cleaned, and re-installed w/ new gaskets, the auger motor and auger removed and the auger flight checked and cleaned, the entire exhaust system cleaned from the top to the bottom, and the hopper cleaned after the auger removal..
Along with the above, while the comb. blower is out, the entire air path from the air intake to the exhaust outlet should be cleaned. Removing the "firebrick" and banging on the back steel wall, and then removing the ash trap covers (top & bottom) and vacuuming up inside with a vacuum that has a rubber hose attached.
Has the convection blower been lubricated recently?
Don't know if you've been watching the forum much, but many members use a leaf blower AFTER they've dona all of the above and re-assembled the stove.
Bottom line, if the stove doesn't have enough air going through it to build a hot fire, the POF switch will never trip and turn the conv. blower on, and eventually the stove shuts down.
I heard what you said about keeping the stove clean, but tell us, when was the last time the stove was taken apart? And I mean both blowers removed from the stove and cleaned, and re-installed w/ new gaskets, the auger motor and auger removed and the auger flight checked and cleaned, the entire exhaust system cleaned from the top to the bottom, and the hopper cleaned after the auger removal..
Along with the above, while the comb. blower is out, the entire air path from the air intake to the exhaust outlet should be cleaned. Removing the "firebrick" and banging on the back steel wall, and then removing the ash trap covers (top & bottom) and vacuuming up inside with a vacuum that has a rubber hose attached.
Has the convection blower been lubricated recently?
Don't know if you've been watching the forum much, but many members use a leaf blower AFTER they've dona all of the above and re-assembled the stove.
Bottom line, if the stove doesn't have enough air going through it to build a hot fire, the POF switch will never trip and turn the conv. blower on, and eventually the stove shuts down.
Fire God - thanks for your ideas. It's definitely not a problem of hot fire. I have 14" + flames for 20 minutes, the stove is very hot - too hot to the touch in front. In fact, the stove at least warms up the room some going through the start up sequence. Also, prior to the problem, the c. blower would start within 10 minutes from a cold start. So I know how to set the damper, etc. (also, I grew up in a house with a woodstove - several over 12 years - and I have plenty of experience with wood burning). Last year, I burned 3 + tons of pellets in this stove; this year just 2 tons so far. And no problems. I have done all the cleaning you mentioned, including all interior elements (taken apart refractory, exhaust blower, hopper, etc. - I've done this twice this year already; twice last year). The flue is only about 3' long (horizontally vented, no elbow), and is spotless. I have removed the back housing of the stove and taken care to vacuum house dust from the electrics, etc., but I've not removed the c. blower or auger, or oiled anything - remember this stove is still relatively new so I don't want to void any warranties. Anyway, I burn on the highest heat/c. fan setting 90% of the time, so there's a "clean" burn. I think my c. blower problem relates to an electrical/controller gremlin, not operator error. And I'm still not sure how the "snap disks" work. Thanks.
bigpoker said:
There are two things that could be going on:
1: The proof of fire switch (snap disc) not closing in time ...
2: The convection fan not turning thus the stoves high limit system activates ...
Both result in the stove shutting down.
With the stove off and unplugged disconnect the convection blower from the stove's electrical system and connect it to a WARNING this is playing with line voltage and if you don't know what you are doing don't do it. patch cord AKA suicide cord , plug the patch cord into the wall the blower should start and go to full speed quickly. Remove the plug from the wall, reassemble the blowers connection in the stove. Report your results back to us.
Do what Smokey said. If the Conv blower spins on a cord, and you know the circuit board is good, then i'd think that snap disk is not closing, and therefore not supplying volts/current to the blower. I'm not sure exactly where that disc is located. there is one above the conv blower along the angled backside of the hopper, and there's another in the rear by the exhaust blower. Not sure which one is the one that closes to allow conv blower to turn on.
Thanks SmokeyTB & Richkorn. I think I'm going to wait for the dealer's scheduled "service" call tomorrow. If it was cold here (currently sunny 45 and predicted 75 by Friday - WTF?), I would try your suggested troubleshoot. But I want the dealer to do his warranty work. I'll let you know the results.
Thanks again for your thoughtful responses.
Thanks again for your thoughtful responses.
Guys: the dealer's technician arrived today and did his warranty "magic." Essentially, he replaced the snap disk for the c. blower, fired her up, and all was well. And no charge. Finally, real heat after a week of marginal electric resistance and mid-50's in the morning. Cat is back to flame worshipping.
Thank you for helpful ideas and technical support!
Thank you for helpful ideas and technical support!
This is a common proof of fire low limit disc failure. The control board needs to see a closed connection within the start up time (25 minutes) or the unit just shuts down. Failure of the high limit disc would turn the fan on high until the connection opened back up.
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