Measurements above Hampton HI300

[hinkbot]

after some research into pellet inserts, it seems like that heat source wouldn't provide what we are completely looking for in a backup heat source (loss of power to power ng furnace). after looking into different products from the retailer, we really liked what we saw with the HI300.

the insert will fit within the fireplace opening without a doubt. we have good clearance all around, and because the hearth is up off the floor, only would need ember protection. my only concern and question would be regarding above the insert.

according to the documentation (http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Manuals/HI300-918-240.aspx), for this insert i would need to have:

C - 12" or 14" (unsure of the difference) top facing above the top plate of the stove. so from the hearth, i need 33.5" or 35.5" (to top of plate is 21.5"). measuring this it looks like i have 38", so all is well here.

B - 20" from the mantle to the top plate of the stove. this appears where i may have some issue. using the calculation, i would need to have 41.5" from the hearth to the first combustible part of the mantle. my mantle appears to rest directly on the brick of the fireplace. there is a cap with a cavity (there is a small gap where the mortar is, but small enough that i can't really see how far it goes up, or if there is another layer of brick in there, or is the top even finished). we just moved into the house a few months back, but here is the picture from the listing where i hope you can make out what i'm talking about.

i apologize for not getting a closer picture, we have baby toys all over the place and it's a bit embarrassing...

so with all that said, any suggestions? what would you do or have done? Also, how do i figure out how this thing is attached?

 

[hinkbot]

maybe i misunderstood what the diagram in the hi300 manual really meant. found this image in a different post.

this picture indicates (to me at least) that between E and F is wood. is anyone able to provide any clarification here? i seem to be missing something?

 

[begreen]

It has to do with how far the woodwork projects into the heat radiated by the insert. Your side dimensions are fine, no trim there. What they're showing for the mantel clearance is fascia trim that is shallow before the mantel shelf, which is deep. You don't have this trim so the bottom of your molding on the mantel would be E and the mantel shelf would be F.

Don't let this stop you. There are options like a mantel heat shield, or raising the mantel on another couple courses of brick, or replacing the mantel with a non-combustible one like stone.

 

[DAKSY]

This type of mantel is known simply as a shelf & they are generally
hollow in back & secured to the wall via a wooden cleat.
I assume you are intending to remove the shelf. This should work.
Look on top of the mantel shelf for evidence of plugs - which would
indicate screw heads - or look for evidence of puttied nail heads.
If you find that it's been plugged, the best way to remove the plugs
is with a screw gun with a Philips drive & another screw. Drive the screw down
thru the plug. When it makes contact with the screw head underneath,
the plug will ride up the screw & remove itself...
If it's nailed, it'll generally have finish nails holding it. You should be able to
drive them thru the shelf with a nail set.
You can also leave that shelf in position & install a mantel shield, but they are
not really nice looking & the SO may have issues with the look...

 

[hinkbot]

It has to do with how far the woodwork projects into the heat radiated by the insert. Your side dimensions are fine, no trim there. What they're showing for the mantel clearance is fascia trim that is shallow before the mantel shelf, which is deep. You don't have this trim so the bottom of your molding on the mantel would be E and the mantel shelf would be F.

Don't let this stop you. There are options like a mantel heat shield, or raising the mantel on another couple courses of brick, or replacing the mantel with a non-combustible one like stone.

thanks for the response. everything you said makes sense. the mantle is 8.5" deep, but goes to the wall. so, it only juts out 4.5" over the facing. the trim comes out to max of 3" off the facing, but within the clearance. i wish the hi300 documentation indicates how much is too much.

worst case, we rip out the trim and leave the mantle and figure out what we need to do to make it look ok. i just tried giving a solid tug on the mantle but nothing moved, i imagine it's fastened somewhere, but not sure where.

thanks for your help.

 

[hinkbot]

This type of mantel is known simply as a shelf & they are generally
hollow in back & secured to the wall via a wooden cleat.
I assume you are intending to remove the shelf. This should work.
Look on top of the mantel shelf for evidence of plugs - which would
indicate screw heads - or look for evidence of puttied nail heads.
If you find that it's been plugged, the best way to remove the plugs
is with a screw gun with a Philips drive & another screw. Drive the screw down
thru the plug. When it makes contact with the screw head underneath,
the plug will ride up the screw & remove itself...
If it's nailed, it'll generally have finish nails holding it. You should be able to
drive them thru the shelf with a nail set.
You can also leave that shelf in position & install a mantel shield, but they are
not really nice looking & the SO may have issues with the look...

no signs of anything on top of the mantle/shelf. it's probably been painted over twice in the past couple years (fresh paint by the seller, us repainting for the sake of repainting i guess). on average, how many screens or nails hold this thing down, a couple at each end? or something every few inches?

i'm thinking if we do move forward with this model, we'll ask the installer to check it out ahead of time. if it doesn't pass, we can take care of it before the install.

 

[DAKSY]

... on average, how many screens or nails hold this thing down,
a couple at each end? or something every few inches?

I believe you means screws & the answer is 2 screws, as that number
is all that is needed...Generally the screws & cleat(s) are supplied with
the shelf & the mounting holes are pre-drilled by the manufacturer...
I'd say that maybe 1/3 of the way in from each end would be too far...
Look for plugs about 3/8" diameter, & about 3/4" from the wall...
They'probably been sanded smooth, but I bet they're there...