My first barber chair

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OhioBurner©

Minister of Fire
Aug 20, 2010
1,535
Center of Ohio
Cutting wood this past weekend... 2-3 more truckloads and I should be good for this coming winter. Then I can get a head start on next year. Anyhow had my first barber chair experience. It was a heavy forward leaner. Any particular method to cut this down without barber chairing? I knew it might happen and was very cautious. Luckily it gave me some snap crackle pop a few seconds before it went so I was able to pull the saw out and stand back. She split up the center and the free half shot back a couple of feet. Wow thats a lot of force. Good part about it... about a third of all the bigger chunks were already split in half for me! Oh and I got about a whole years worth of kindling too! Sorry no pics, both my cameras kicked the bucket this year. It was a nice cherry, probably 18" at the base.
 
Cut on both sides of your back cut first. (Mark your back cut. Then cut a few inchs into the sides) Still be prepared for it! (barber chair)
 
So your leaving a strip down the center of the back cut? Like it would make a "T" with the hinge if your were looking down at it from above?
 
OhioBurner© said:
So your leaving a strip down the center of the back cut? Like it would make a "T" with the hinge if your were looking down at it from above?

No I mark where my back cut is going. Then cut a line off both sides of your back cut. (this takes persure off the tree makes your side cuts the weakest point) Then back cut and face cut take over. MORE LIKE AN "H" With the cross line much high lol

B is the back cut mark it with the chainsaw then do your sides. All 3 cuts are level with each other (Face cut is first)

When you get a barber chair your sides are the strongest point. Your just taking that away from the tree. only takes a couple inchs.
This time of year softwoods should be done like this on every tree.
 

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b= back cut s= side cuts f= face cut. Going to look like a box before you start your final back cut.
 

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When I cut a strong leaner. I make my face cut. The bore cut behind the face cut make sure my hinge is even then from the bore cut cut to the outside of the tree. That way you have the back of the tree holding it and if it should break free before you get all the way threw your hinge is already set. And is not big enough to barber-chair.

Billy
 
I'm a rookie and only been cutting downed stuff. I've read that you can wrap a heavy chain or strap mutliple times around the trunk just above the cut to help prevent barber chairing. If I ran into a possible BC situation I think I'd wrap the trunk and use the side cuts, too. I'm not up to trying a plunge cut yet, though I'm feeling like I'm understanding tension/compression in the woods a bit better along with getting some experience with reactive forces.

Jay, you mentioned that side cutting should be used on softwoods during this time of the year. Is this because of the sap rising making the cabium layer and sapwood softer? Thanks for that tip, too, as I'll probably be cutting a little pine before long.

Ed
 
Intheswamp said:
I'm a rookie and only been cutting downed stuff. I've read that you can wrap a heavy chain or strap mutliple times around the trunk just above the cut to help prevent barber chairing. If I ran into a possible BC situation I think I'd wrap the trunk and use the side cuts, too. I'm not up to trying a plunge cut yet, though I'm feeling like I'm understanding tension/compression in the woods a bit better along with getting some experience with reactive forces.

Jay, you mentioned that side cutting should be used on softwoods during this time of the year. Is this because of the sap rising making the cabium layer and sapwood softer? Thanks for that tip, too, as I'll probably be cutting a little pine before long.

Ed

yes
 
[quote author="Intheswamp" date="1302560546"]I'm a rookie and only been cutting downed stuff. I've read that you can wrap a heavy chain or strap mutliple times around the trunk just above the cut to help prevent barber chairing. If I ran into a possible BC situation I think I'd wrap the trunk and use the side cuts, too. I'm not up to trying a plunge cut yet, though I'm feeling like I'm understanding tension/compression in the woods a bit better along with getting some experience with reactive forces.






That would be an extreme measure there and a very large tree. At that point probally let the crain have it.
 

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GolfandWoodNut said:
Here you go, Ligettfa found this image when this topic came up before. Here is a clear simple image. Also a link to alot of other good stuff.
http://www.autonopedia.org/garden_and_farm/Trees_And_Woodland/Tree-felling_safety.html

If you think that tree could barber chair to start with that cutting is way to aggressive. Your only looking to control the break dont over power it. Just my experience. Those cuts are much harder to line up level wise. (Cant see my self hanging in the pocket with it)
 
Thanks for all the great info fellas. Like Flavo, most of my training is coming from the net... and books... I do have "To Fell a Tree by Jeff Jepson" and its been a great resource. I didnt have it with me though, I got it out yesterday and it did address heavy forward leaners with a technique like what cowboybilly described, make the face cut then bore cut behind it and cut to the hinge then basically cut the back cut in reverse, starting from the hinge going to the back.
 
OhioBurner© said:
Thanks for all the great info fellas. Like Flavo, most of my training is coming from the net... and books... I do have "To Fell a Tree by Jeff Jepson" and its been a great resource. I didnt have it with me though, I got it out yesterday and it did address heavy forward leaners with a technique like what cowboybilly described, make the face cut then bore cut behind it and cut to the hinge then basically cut the back cut in reverse, starting from the hinge going to the back.

Bore or plunge cuts can be very difficult. Keep in mind that "you are the man" in the pocket....If you are not really good at it ,well standing in the line of fire gets a little weird! I would much rather let the tree barber chair and be out of the way, but if your that good and no theres dought Billy is. GET YOUR BUTT TO THE SIDE OF THE TREE! with the longest bar you have.
 
I'm with you there Jay. Get to the side of the tree, not behind it.
 
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?
 
chvymn99 said:
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?

Its where the tree breaks in the middle of the trunk. It can scar the crap out of you from the sound alone. This one is very small and I would not even worry about on this size.
 

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They call it a barber chair because the trunk can look like a chair when it falls because you never really finished cutting it and it has a back to it.
 

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We have done some of that on purpose. Usually we do it with small trees and do it for the deer. They love to lay under those trees and if they go to the ground then the deer like to lay right next to the log. Just one more way of helping the deer and also keeping them on your place.
 
Backwoods Savage said:
We have done some of that on purpose. Usually we do it with small trees and do it for the deer. They love to lay under those trees and if they go to the ground then the deer like to lay right next to the log. Just one more way of helping the deer and also keeping them on your place.

You got that right Dennis, I cut a poplar down this year that was in the way for a trail I was putting in. I was not really interested in the wood but the deer sure liked it. When I would go for a walk or ride the Quad they were often there. The tree already had leaves on it and it gave them nice cover.
 
Cowboy Billy said:
When I cut a strong leaner. I make my face cut. The bore cut behind the face cut make sure my hinge is even then from the bore cut cut to the outside of the tree. That way you have the back of the tree holding it and if it should break free before you get all the way threw your hinge is already set. And is not big enough to barber-chair.

Billy

On the money. If the tree is too small to do a bore cut, you can wrap it with a chain just above your cuts.
 
chvymn99 said:
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?
Maybe because there have been many "close shaves." :lol:
 
Woody Stover said:
chvymn99 said:
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?
Maybe because there have been many "close shaves." :lol:

lol Your right. Nothing like a black locust or hickory cracking from a barber chair. I in no way want to be anywhere around the back side of it. (the crack alone will freeze you for a second)
 
smokinjay said:
Woody Stover said:
chvymn99 said:
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?
Maybe because there have been many "close shaves." :lol:

lol Your right. Nothing like a black locust or hickory cracking from a barber chair. I in no way want to be anywhere around the back side of it. (the crack alone will freeze you for a second)
Its scary stuff. Seen a couple that sounded almost like a shotgun blast,made me jump back about 10 ft lol.
 
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