Definitely agree. When you have the saw in there making the bore you have the tip dragging you in the direction of the top of your bar which on a small tree isn't good, cause you don't have much to work with.mtcates said:Looks good to me! One word of caution though, Its best to have a larger tree to use that technique on. It gives you a little margin for error so you don't accidently cut the strap or holding wood while doing the bore cut. The only time I find that cut necessary is felling a heavy leaner in the direction of the lean. Other than that I never use it.
Nothing wrong with that. If you aren't comfortable with it, then don't do it. There are other ways to bring down a tree!Piston said:I've always been too nervous to try a bore cut. I'm too worried about kickback, even though I've read a million times on HOW to do it, I know the theory behind it, and the way it should work, I just get nervous to actually try it....
Yes, and on non-leaners it works like a normal cut except it's nice to have a trigger to the fell. With a normal cut you are just making the hinge smaller and smaller until it gives, sometimes leaving you to wonder when it will go. With this, you know it will go when you cut the holding wood or "trigger" on the back.GolfandWoodNut said:I have not done it cptoneleg, but the theory on a leaner is that it helps prevent a barber chair where the back of the tree snaps back, since the back cut is made last.
That's what I did, and another benefit to cutting this way is you can leave your saw idling there in the bore and look to the other side of the tree to look at the tip and make sure you have a nice even hinge. You even have the security of not really worrying about the tree settling back and pinching your saw or any other sort of kickback because of that back holding wood. Definitely think I'll be using in on more of the larger trees in the future.MarkinNC said:I would start you bore cut is more away from the hinge and work up to it.