My New Hampton HI300

[MetMan]

got a Fiskars yet? ;-)

No, I haven't. I presume that it is a maul?

Fiskars has 4 1/4 and 2 1/2 pound splitting axes (Super Splitter and Pro Splitter) that are pretty handy, and lots of fun to use once you get used to them. The don't wear you out but take some practice to master as the are very sharp and have fairly short handles.

 

[Tom NJ]

got a Fiskars yet? ;-)

No, I haven't. I presume that it is a maul?

Fiskars has 4 1/4 and 2 1/2 pound splitting axes (Super Splitter and Pro Splitter) that are pretty handy, and lots of fun to use once you get used to them. The don't wear you out but take some practice to master as the are very sharp and have fairly short handles.

Sounds like I need to put them on my Christmas list. Thanks.

 

[WARDNEAL]

I would still make a block off plate as the surround will not stop the chimney effect.

Glad you found out it was the wood. Make your splits smaller will help sum.

Nice looking insert.

 

[Tom NJ]

What if I go top-side and block the chimney off around the cap? Would this be sufficient? I would rather not yank the unit.

Thanks for all the input and compliments.

 

[burntime]

That should be done already...

 

[Tom NJ]

I did the install myself and didn't do that because I modified the existing chimney cap set-up so that it matched the other cap on my other chimney. I have the plate, but I didn't use it. When I was doing it I didn't think it would make that big a difference. Still learnin'.

 

[Install fire 1]

Being in canada, our inserts have to be fully lined, so thats why i insulate at the damper area and not the top.

Insulating at the top traps all the moist air, as it can still pass through the damper. It makes a mess of your clay tile in a hurry.

Where at the bottom, it stays at a more constant drier temp all they way up. Less temp difference. The flashing lets its breathe.

I have pulled out enough wet insulation out of chimney tops to last a lifetime. Most b-vent gas inserts were done this way, stuffed with insulation and then cemented in. Liners rot everytime.

 

[Tom NJ]

Being in canada, our inserts have to be fully lined, so thats why i insulate at the damper area and not the top.

Insulating at the top traps all the moist air, as it can still pass through the damper. It makes a mess of your clay tile in a hurry.

Where at the bottom, it stays at a more constant drier temp all they way up. Less temp difference. The flashing lets its breathe.

I have pulled out enough wet insulation out of chimney tops to last a lifetime. Most b-vent gas inserts were done this way, stuffed with insulation and then cemented in. Liners rot everytime.

Ahh, I got it. Thanks for telling me.

 

[Tom NJ]

So, I have been burning for a month now and am very pleased. I have a couple of questions, though.

I have been loading the stove full; and, I mean full. However, after reading other posts about over-firing and chimney fires, I am a little nervous. I don't have a thermometer on the stove, because there really isn't anywhere to place one. I will load it with as much wood as I can get in it and then let it catch with the draft wide open until everything is burning well and then cut it back to half draft. At this point the stove is kicking out some really nice heat. When it gets going like this, I notice that the secondary air tubes will be glowing red and sometimes part of the flu baffles. The manual says that if the body of the stove is glowing it is over-firing. So, am I safe in assuming that this is not over-firing if it is just the tubes and the baffles glowing?

Also, the firebox is lined with bricks and then there is about four inches in front of the bricks where the door is that is just cast iron. Is it okay to load all the way out to the door? Or, should I be keeping it in the brick-lined box?

Thanks.

 

[BrowningBAR]

So, I have been burning for a month now and am very pleased. I have a couple of questions, though.

I have been loading the stove full; and, I mean full. However, after reading other posts about over-firing and chimney fires, I am a little nervous. I don't have a thermometer on the stove, because there really isn't anywhere to place one. I will load it with as much wood as I can get in it and then let it catch with the draft wide open until everything is burning well and then cut it back to half draft. At this point the stove is kicking out some really nice heat. When it gets going like this, I notice that the secondary air tubes will be glowing red and sometimes part of the flu baffles. The manual says that if the body of the stove is glowing it is over-firing. So, am I safe in assuming that this is not over-firing if it is just the tubes and the baffles glowing?

Also, the firebox is lined with bricks and then there is about four inches in front of the bricks where the door is that is just cast iron. Is it okay to load all the way out to the door? Or, should I be keeping it in the brick-lined box?

Thanks.

1. Should still get a thermometer
2. Chimney fires are due to dirty chimneys. Not hot fires.
3. You sound like you are burning it well. I would still get a thermometer on that thing. It will give you a better idea as to how it burns so you can maximize your heating ability.
4. I think as long as the logs aren't resting on the glass you should be fine.

What type of burn times are you getting out of it? How are the overnight burns?

 

[Tom NJ]

With a full load, the fire will burn for about four hours. After that it is just coals in the shape of logs, which are still kicking out decent heat. The over-night burns are pretty good. I will load the box full at about 11pm with the house at about 67 and when I get up at 7am the house will be at about 63 and there is usually one log across the back that is one big block of coals. I throw a few pieces into the box and it come right back up.

 

[stejus]

Hey Tom,

Congrats on this stove. It will take time to learn the draft control. Think of this as your throttle to control heat. Wide open you're loosing heat to the stack and closed your keeping the heat in the stove. It's very touchy and if you close it too soon, you will never get the stove hot enough for secondary burns. If you leave it open too long you will overfire and see a red glow in the area where the blower air exits.

On a full load of seasoned wood sitting on a good coal bed, you should be able to have it shut down (about 1/2" open) within 20 minutes. Do this in small steps. I usually do it in about 4 steps. If you close it too fast, it's best to start over wide open and start the process over. If you can't get it closed and get the secondary burns, it may be due to your wood to wet.

Like others said, get a Rutland thermometer and place it in the area with the blower air exits. You'll need a flash light to read it though. I've attaced a pic for reference.

 

[Tom NJ]

Hey Tom,

Congrats on this stove. It will take time to learn the draft control. Think of this as your throttle to control heat. Wide open you're loosing heat to the stack and closed your keeping the heat in the stove. It's very touchy and if you close it too soon, you will never get the stove hot enough for secondary burns. If you leave it open too long you will overfire and see a red glow in the area where the blower air exits.

On a full load of seasoned wood sitting on a good coal bed, you should be able to have it shut down (about 1/2" open) within 20 minutes. Do this in small steps. I usually do it in about 4 steps. If you close it too fast, it's best to start over wide open and start the process over. If you can't get it closed and get the secondary burns, it may be due to your wood to wet.

Like others said, get a Rutland thermometer and place it in the area with the blower air exits. You'll need a flash light to read it though. I've attaced a pic for reference.

Thanks for the input.